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remove 460 ford waterpump
02-14-2011, 12:01 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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how do you change the waterpump on a 1994 bounder with a 460 ford engine?It looks like you need to remove ac condenser and radiator before you can get to fan and shroud.thank you for any replies
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02-16-2011, 02:14 PM
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#2
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Solo Rvers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 47
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Did you ever figure this out? I'm going in there on Friday for the radiator as I posted in my thread and I can look around while I'm in there. If you have anything you'd like me to look at, let me know. I'm not removing the water pump though, mine seems to be fine.....for now.
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02-16-2011, 04:19 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,935
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Best way to do it.. remove the rad/coil.. while you in there, change all the belts and hoses, have your Alt tested, air pump if you have one, A/C clutch if you have one, clean the rad, and look real hard at the front crank seal..
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02-16-2011, 05:07 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 166
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With that age unit, I would replace my radiator if I had it out. No way would I put in an old one. I read somewhere too that those bolts on the pump might be different lengths, use cardboard cutout or something to keep them in right locations.
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02-17-2011, 02:35 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalone
Did you ever figure this out? I'm going in there on Friday for the radiator as I posted in my thread and I can look around while I'm in there. If you have anything you'd like me to look at, let me know. I'm not removing the water pump though, mine seems to be fine.....for now. 
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thanks for comeback. I am new at this. Are you planning on removing radiator yourself? If you are let me know what it involes to getting rad out. looks like . it has to come out from the bottom.my chassis has a crossmember that appears to be bolted in below the rad.
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02-17-2011, 03:15 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Easton, Ks
Posts: 482
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Did you read my post in this thread?
94-95 F53 radiator replacement
/
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Bill
1994 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53
subford@gmail.com
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02-17-2011, 04:58 PM
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#7
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Solo Rvers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1skatingrin
thanks for comeback. I am new at this. Are you planning on removing radiator yourself? If you are let me know what it involes to getting rad out. looks like . it has to come out from the bottom.my chassis has a crossmember that appears to be bolted in below the rad. 
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Yeah I'm going to do it myself. Check out the thread I started, subford posted some really good info. My projects on hold for now though.
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04-14-2012, 07:26 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Oswego,NY
Posts: 28
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so I'm changing my water pump on my 94 coachman. it looks like I have to take off the pollution pump and bracket to get to the water pump as well. did you have to do this...probably one of the worst water pumps I ever saw...looks like its turned into a 2 day job, hopefully I can finish it up tomorrow. AS my Dad would say, if this is fords idea of a better way...
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1994 coachmen leprechaun 29'
1991 Harley FLHTC
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04-15-2012, 08:00 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Nashville NC
Posts: 84
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Some praying might would help as well, for those 4 long bolts in the water pump that they are not rusted in place & end up snapping off in the block.
If you have any luck getting them out, afterwards, go & get you 4 threaded studs the right length with nuts to go back in place of those bolts & be sure to coat them up real good with antiseize.
Cause you can never tell if you might have to replace it again some day.
I'm like Midniteoyl,
I would replace every belt or hose I could get to while I was in there & I tell you something else, would be a good time since all that stuff is out of the way, to replace that old 4* retarded stock timing chain & gears & put in a new straight up timing set for a little performance gain.
Neil
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04-15-2012, 08:35 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Easton, Ks
Posts: 482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Leigh Racing
to replace that old 4* retarded stock timing chain & gears & put in a new straight up timing set for a little performance gain.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 87-up fuel injected 460s were straight-up from the factory. Only the 72-86 Carbed 460s had the 4* retard on the cams.
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Bill
1994 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53
subford@gmail.com
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04-15-2012, 12:19 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 87-up fuel injected 460s were straight-up from the factory. Only the 72-86 Carbed 460s had the 4* retard on the cams.
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I heard it was to '89 or even '90 in heavy trucks and RV's as they still were carb'ed.. I know mine is..
In either case, It prolly wouldnt hurt to put a good timing chain in there regardless.. I mean, the spark scatter with the original is prolly +/- 4 degrees all by itself
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04-15-2012, 12:38 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Easton, Ks
Posts: 482
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Let me say it in a different way then.
If the 460 is Carbed after 1972 then they would have the 4* retard on the cams.
If the 460 is fuel injected then they would be straight-up from the factory.
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Bill
1994 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53
subford@gmail.com
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04-16-2012, 09:05 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Nashville NC
Posts: 84
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The GBM we had before the H/R Vacationer, was a 89 year on 88 John Deere chassis with carbed 460 & C6 trans, 4.56 rear gear.
460 M/H chassis, didnt FI until after 1990 & the 4* retard on the timing chain was in the 80s up, some of the greater tree hugger ideas.
In order to get a straight up timing set, if you were searching threw 460 model years, you would need to get one for the 70s year 460 engine.
Timing set I got for mine, when I had one, to go along with the high lift RV camshaft, was adjustable from 4* retard to straight up or either 4* advanced & I set it 4* advanced.
Ported heads with Inconal exhaust valves & carbide exhaust valve seats, high lift #3150 Summit camshaft, 4* advanced on the cam chain, 4" take off F350 super duty 7.3 diesel exhaust system just to get that hot exhaust out.
9 out of 10 M/Hs with 460 engines, the exhaust systems not large enough to promote good flow. The 1 out of 10 total, belongs to someone that has replaced it.
You want to know what you got if you have a 460 engine, go to 460ford.com cause them boys love a 460 & any other engine to them is just junk.
Neil
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04-16-2012, 02:53 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 30
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remember if you ever have to change that short lower waterpump hose going to the oilcooler, you have to remove the square cooler assembly from the oilcooler castings, its two 5/16 or 3/8 bolts forgot but they are small, there are two rubber oil rings in between that go bad and thats why most have oily residue around that cooler, i got rid of that cooler have heard quite a bit on them leaking internally mixing oil with anitfreeze, i installed a remote oil filter relocator,big thread on this topic on fordtrucks.com,, oil heat exchanger failure, maybe that cooler will last forever for you, its just me i dont like taking that chance
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