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Old 07-17-2019, 10:13 PM   #1
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Removing/installing rear tires myself?

Is it possible? What tools do I need. Yes i've replaced tires on my Accord and Odyssey. Are these next level?

I have finished installing my front sumo springs and I am onto the rears. The videos I see say to remove the rear tires. That actually is about the only hard part of what I see in the video.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:19 AM   #2
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What size wheels, What is your motorhome, chassis, etc.

On my 1999 Ford F53, I have 19.5 inch wheels with steel rims. I use this same procedure both front and rear. On the rear, I make sure the air fill valves are opposite each other so I can install my extenders.

I use a 24 inch breaker bar to remove the lugs, and a torque wrench when installing. A impact driver is nice, but not necessary. I carry a 10 ton bottle jack that can also be used to jack the vehicle.

Using the levelers, I jack the MH up just enough so the tire is about 1/2 inch off the ground. I put a safety stand under the axle. Remove the lug nuts, wiggle the wheel back and forth so it slides off the hub, then roll it out of the way, no lifting required. The tire is very heavy.

Just the opposite when installing wheels. Wiggle the tire into position so the lugs line up. I usually need to lift the wheel a small amount, so I put my breaker bar under the front or rear of the tire to use a pry bar, and lift the wheel so it slides onto the hub and lugs.

Verify the air valves are lined up opposite each other, install the nuts. Mine are torqued to 150 ft-lbs.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Ford issued a TSB for vibration on 1999 - 2001 F53's. The problem is that the lug holes on the rims was a little oversize and the wheels will not center correctly on the hubs. (same problem, front and rear). This can create a vibration thats more pronounced between 50 - 60 mph..

The solution is to use "Centering Sleeves" when installing the wheels. After I get the tire(s) on the lugs, I'll install 5 of the lug nuts loosely so the tire(s) won't slide off. I then slide the sleeves over 3 of the lugs, turn and tap them until they are all the way in and the rim is resting on the sleeves and not the lugs. The sleeves help center the oversized holes. I verify that the rim is resting on the sleeves, then tighten / torque the 5 lug nuts. I then remove the sleeves and install / torque the remaining three nuts. Re-verify the torque on all 8 lug nuts then lower the vehicle..

See the writeup and TSB on my site:

Funny vibration around 50 mph – Wheel Centering on F53 – 1999 Southwind 35S


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Old 07-18-2019, 07:05 AM   #3
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I picked up a "cheap" torque converter. I've used it once. Unfortunately, I had to also purchase a socket that was large enough for the lug nuts. (It's a 1" drive) It's not the easiest thing to work with but it did the job of removing / replacing the nuts. I also bought a bottle jack so if I had to (don't really want to) I could change out a tire myself. There are definitely better and more expensive torque converters out there which I would say without carrying air tools would be necessary. I just have the 19.5 rims and they're way easier to work with than the 22's.


I had purchased the spacers that Waiter posted but I couldn't get them to fit onto our studs and still get the rim over them. I really wanted to have them work but I'm guessing at some point there was a clearance adjustment? (never really looked further into that)
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:19 AM   #4
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If you can change a car tire , then you should be able to change a tire on your motorhome. They are just a little heavier and the nuts are a little tighter. Most roadside services only send out 1 person to change a tire.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:19 AM   #5
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If you have the will, it would be a great way to make sure you have the tools and the skill to change a tire which gives you options during a emergency.
Even something like proper lug nut torque could be worked around. Without a proper torque tool, just install the lug nuts as tight as you can and head to the nearest truck stop. If it's a long way, just stop and check the lug nuts ever 50 miles or so until they get properly torqued.
Just some ideas to consider!
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
I had purchased the spacers that Waiter posted but I couldn't get them to fit onto our studs and still get the rim over them.
Thom, The lug holes on the wheels on your 2010 are smaller and the correct size, so you don't need the sleeves (they won't fit anyway).

The problem was 1999, 2000, and some 2001 19.5 inch wheels, the holes were to large.
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1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10 275hp 4R100 4 spd trans) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
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It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:12 AM   #7
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Thanks, it doesn't sound untackleable.

I have 22.5" tires on a 2018 24K F53 Chassis.

I googled a video to see if anybody else has removed them, and the guy was using what looked like a jackhammer with a 22" socket on it

https://youtu.be/k4HDe0zZ5ro?t=21
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:40 AM   #8
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150 ft lbs? I wish that is what my Workhorse was as then I could change or pull a wheel/tire.
My Workhorse 19.5 lugs are torqued to 450 ft lbs.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:44 AM   #9
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I know my 19.5 inch wheels are heavy. I can only imagine the 22.5ís. Has anyone used something like this to aid in tire removal/replacement?
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Thanks, it doesn't sound untackleable.

I have 22.5" tires on a 2018 24K F53 Chassis.
22.5 are different than the 19.5. I believe the torque is significantly higher. and the tires are heavier.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
Thom, The lug holes on the wheels on your 2010 are smaller and the correct size, so you don't need the sleeves (they won't fit anyway).

The problem was 1999, 2000, and some 2001 19.5 inch wheels, the holes were to large.
Mr Waiter21, I was led to believe the wheels are hub centered, not lug centered and the problem is the fit between the hub hole and the hub centering arms. While the sleeves do center the wheel on the lugs, which seem an adequate patch for the problem.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive861 View Post
I know my 19.5 inch wheels are heavy. I can only imagine the 22.5ís. Has anyone used something like this to aid in tire removal/replacement?
Yes, it works great on the fronts. On the rear duallys the casters hit the inner tire when trying to use it on the outer. You can fudge it a little by playing with placing the casters between the tires to make it work. It works great on the inner once the outer is removed. All in all I'm still glad I bought it, I used a 20% off coupon too.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:09 PM   #13
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The tire weighs about 79 lbs. and an aluminum wheel weighs about 47 lbs. for a total of 126 lbs. You'll also need a torque multiplier, a breaker bar, an extension, and proper size socket. As mentioned the torque on the 22.5 lug nuts is 450 ft. lbs. You'll also need a 12 to low profile bottle jack to get under the front axle. I have a standard 12 ton floor jack, but it's too tall to slide under the front axle. It works fine on the rear axle.

You can get a reasonably priced breaker bar, torque multiplier, extension and socket from Northern tool for around $375.00. I've used these tools a couple times to remove and reinstall the wheels on our 2013 Adventurer. The caveat is that it's always been done on a flat concrete surface.

I do carry the tools with us for an emergency, but hopefully won't have to use them along side the road. If you plan to take the tools with you also be sure to take some blocking for the bottle jack. It won't extend far enough to raise the rear axle when sitting on the ground
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Mr Waiter21, I was led to believe the wheels are hub centered, not lug centered and the problem is the fit between the hub hole and the hub centering arms. While the sleeves do center the wheel on the lugs, which seem an adequate patch for the problem.
Centering mechanism - Hub (rear) and tab (front).

I agree, You'd think that the wheels should center up with the hubs or tab. Unfortunately, they don't. We did comparisons with hole diameter and tab measurements between mine and TeJays F53. He has a fairly new chassis (2016 ???). We both made measurements on the tabs and lug holes to compare. The main difference between his and mine were the diameter of the lug holes. His wheels centered up, but he also had a small gap between the wheel and the tabs, which says the tabs were not the centering factor.

I made a chart that shows the wheel / tab gap on mine.

On the left front wheel, without the sleeves, you can see where the wheel is resting on the bottom tab (0.000) but there is a gap at the top, 0.017. The sides seem to be centered in the tabs , as there is no gap (0.000 left and 0.006 right)

When I use the sleeves, the measurements are more symmetrical. Look specifically at the top and bottom gaps. The top is no longer 0.017, its now 0.010. And the bottom is no longer 0, its now 0.010.

On the rear wheels, there are no tabs, the wheel centers up on the hub. Based on the before/after, it seems like the rears centered up fairly nicely without the sleeves. Regardless, I use the sleeves to center the rear wheels anyway. Making the measurements on the rear wheels was more difficult, but similar results as the front.

REMEMBER - This applies to early F53 19.5 inch wheels (1999 - 2001). They made the wheel holes a little smaller around mid 2001 so this no longer applies after that.

After reinstalling the wheels with the sleeves, I noted a significant reduction in the vibration at 55 mph.

This is all written up in the article:

Funny vibration around 50 mph – Wheel Centering on F53 – 1999 Southwind 35S


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(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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