Speaking of hanging brakes...

Lt46 · 04-08-2011, 07:06 AM

Just what is involved in greasing the caliper slide pins? I've often heard this recommended as part of a PM program.
Once the wheel is off; I know the pin is a horseshoe shaped metal piece and assuming I can spot it right away, does greasing this pin require to remove it from where it sits? If removal is required does that mean the caliper has to come off the rotor?, Does pin removal mean the pads will become dislodged from where they sit?
Any and all insight is appreciated.
Thanks.

John Mo · 04-08-2011, 11:05 AM

This is a job that's been begging for a photo-illustrated how-to for a long time. The Google did provide a link to this IRV2 blog entry: No more annoying brake squeak! - iRV2 Forums

But if it were me, I could still use a guide that picks up with "OK, now that you've got the tire removed..."

frankdamp · 04-08-2011, 08:30 PM

Based oin my experience with disc brakes my input would be "NO GREASE". Use a dry lube like Molyslip or graphite, Grease will eventually bake in place and be more trouble than what you were trying to fix.

I haven't done any work on the brakes on my rig yet, but on various cars I've had, the caliper slides along a couple of shouldered bolts. It's that shoulder that needs the dry lube.

subford · 04-09-2011, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt46

Once the wheel is off; I know the pin is a horseshoe shaped metal piece and assuming I can spot it right away, does greasing this pin require to remove it from where it sits?

Yes I remove them and if they are bad I replace them with new ones.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt46

If removal is required does that mean the caliper has to come off the rotor?

I take mine off and hang it by wire.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt46

Does pin removal mean the pads will become dislodged from where they sit?
Any and all insight is appreciated.
Thanks.

I take them off so I can clean all the places that they ride on with emery paper and the sliding parts the pins slide in. Then I re-grease all of the parts where the slide with grease that is made for the job. The is not the same grease that you use to lub the king pins, tie rods ends, wheel bearings and “U” joints with. If replacing the pads if they do not slip free I file the ends to let them move free. Make sure you put the anti-rattle springs back on them.

There is not that much to it, the hardest part is removing the wheels and putting them back on. While the front wheels are off then you can also repack the front wheel bearings.

Lt46 · 04-09-2011, 11:34 AM

Thanks Bill. My front brakes are a year old (last spring) but on my 1st cruise of the season a few days ago and after a 5 mile run, I used my infared thermometer on the front rotors and found the passenger rotor 70* hotter than the driverside. Assuming it's hanging up a bit. However, 20 miles later, both were running approx. the same temp. Again assuming, but maybe waking up from its winter slumber, things needed a good workout before playing nicely together. Fingers crossed for good luck.

dsbike · 04-09-2011, 12:23 PM

Peter, if you have a brake hung up you will know it when driving. The vehicle will pull baddly to that side. I also suspect that after 5 miles that brake & hub & wheel will be so hot that you can not touch it. I recently had a caliper on my 85 chevy pickup 1/2 ton hangup. There was a definate drag & pull, even worse when I hit the brakes. The wheel & hub were extremely hot. The flexible hose had a restriction & was not allowing the brake to release. Replaced all the flex hoes on the truck & all is well.

Also, if you had the brakes changed by a good mechanic he would have greased the pins with brake grease. We hope we are getting a good mechanic when we take our vehicles in for service. However as a mechanic myself, I don't take my vehicles to anyone unless I have no other choice.

Lt46 · 04-10-2011, 07:05 AM

Thanks dsbike! Yeah, I'm not feeling any of that. My concern was the difference in temp. but in time it all evened out. My guess now is the winter hibernation allow for some rust buildup that eventually worked itself out by running down the road and using the brakes.

Topflite51 · 04-10-2011, 09:10 AM

I would expect the condition to reoccur, brakes generally do "not heal thyself" so to speak. Were both calipers and hoses replaced last spring?

burmashave · 04-10-2011, 10:51 AM

my front right caliper was frozen and the coach didn't pull in either direction. Don't quite get that because it has been my experience to have a vehicle pull in the opposite direction of the frozen caliper....will pull toward the one that's grabbing. But I suppose if one is frozen closed, it's already braking (all the time), and other than the friction/heat and reduced mpg, it might not necessarily pull. Do you agree?

subford · 04-10-2011, 11:06 AM

If a caliper is frozen it may not be applying any pressure to the rotor at all and the RV will pull toward the brake that is working opposite from the frozen one.

It would also be cooler than the working one.

Lt46 · 04-10-2011, 01:46 PM

Topflite,
Yes, both front were done in the spring with the rears last fall. New all around. I watched the install and saw the caliper pins being greased. My original post was questioning the re-grease procedure and what was involved with it.
Burma,
The increase in heat caught my attention. There was no noticeable drag or pull or smell. I just routinely infared thermometer them to see if there was any discrepancy and there was. Passenger side was 70* hotter than drivers. However, they have since equaled themselves to within 20* of each other. That seems OK to me.
Sub,
I can see that. I'm grateful there was no pulling action at all when brakes were applied.

burmashave · 04-10-2011, 04:51 PM

mine sits all winter. It seems that is most of the problem. I think it is imperative to do the brake fluid flush bi-annually. If it prevents the expense of getting this repaired, then I think it is easily worth it, not to mention the safety factors.

Topflite51 · 04-11-2011, 09:26 AM

In areas of high humidity or not, lubing the caliper pin slides is considered to be part of good annual PM. I also do a fluid flush of the brake fluid, of course I am somewhat anal about my brakes. If you are a DIYer, both jobs are relatively inexpensive. If you are not a DIYer, they still are.

burmashave · 04-11-2011, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topflite51

In areas of high humidity or not, lubing the caliper pin slides is considered to be part of good annual PM. I also do a fluid flush of the brake fluid, of course I am somewhat anal about my brakes. If you are a DIYer, both jobs are relatively inexpensive. If you are not a DIYer, they still are.

after going through this, I will be having this service performed annually. It's way cheaper AND SAFER in the short and long run.