Steering and Tracking Issues with 97 Sea Breeze Ford Chassis

[pappyrsg]

I recently purchased a 97 Sea Breeze on a Ford chassis (18,000 lb, 460 v8). I drove the motorhome back from Florida to Arizona. Shocks were shot and I noticed some steering play. The interstates (mostly I10) were rutted or badly worn about 80% OF THE WAY, but when the road was smooth and there was no wind, she drove and tracked very well.
I have since replaced the shocks and steering damper (Bilsteins), new tires (BFG's), had the sway bar bushings replaced (poly) as well as the steering gear box rebuilt, four-wheel alignment. The shocks ride rough (to be exspected) but greatly improved body roll and wind handling. But I still have steering play (about 1/2" in rotation at the steering wheel) which greatly increases the effort (attention to the task) required to drive her, particularly since she seems to wander a bit (although I think that's mostly normal rut and wind-driven). In fact, it seems the coach is even more difficult to drive now than with the old worn-out shocks, etc. When I realize the coach is veering off line slightly, I must adjust the wheel to negate the steering play and then correct slightly in the other direction to return back toward the initial line. This almost always results in over-correct and another cycle of de-play and adjust and... annoying. This is our first motorhome but I've spoken to RV folks and read comments online of coaches 'driving like a car'... not this one. I've driven large U-Haul trucks that were easier to track.
Given the now tight steering box, and all down-stream steering components certified good (by two different shops), can anyone provide any insight as to where the steering play could be coming from? (Is there some sort of flexible link between the box and the steering wheel?) Also, does anyone have any knowledge of suggested alignment settings (tow is now at 1/8", don't know caster / camber settings) to provide optimum tracking and perhaps somehow counter the steering play?
Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I like the coach very much, but if I can't resolve the chassis steering and tracking issues, this motorhome will be gone.

[pappyrsg]

I recently purchased a 97 Sea Breeze on a Ford chassis (18,000 lb, 460 v8). I drove the motorhome back from Florida to Arizona. Shocks were shot and I noticed some steering play. The interstates (mostly I10) were rutted or badly worn about 80% OF THE WAY, but when the road was smooth and there was no wind, she drove and tracked very well.
I have since replaced the shocks and steering damper (Bilsteins), new tires (BFG's), had the sway bar bushings replaced (poly) as well as the steering gear box rebuilt, four-wheel alignment. The shocks ride rough (to be exspected) but greatly improved body roll and wind handling. But I still have steering play (about 1/2" in rotation at the steering wheel) which greatly increases the effort (attention to the task) required to drive her, particularly since she seems to wander a bit (although I think that's mostly normal rut and wind-driven). In fact, it seems the coach is even more difficult to drive now than with the old worn-out shocks, etc. When I realize the coach is veering off line slightly, I must adjust the wheel to negate the steering play and then correct slightly in the other direction to return back toward the initial line. This almost always results in over-correct and another cycle of de-play and adjust and... annoying. This is our first motorhome but I've spoken to RV folks and read comments online of coaches 'driving like a car'... not this one. I've driven large U-Haul trucks that were easier to track.
Given the now tight steering box, and all down-stream steering components certified good (by two different shops), can anyone provide any insight as to where the steering play could be coming from? (Is there some sort of flexible link between the box and the steering wheel?) Also, does anyone have any knowledge of suggested alignment settings (tow is now at 1/8", don't know caster / camber settings) to provide optimum tracking and perhaps somehow counter the steering play?
Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I like the coach very much, but if I can't resolve the chassis steering and tracking issues, this motorhome will be gone.

[LVJ58]

When checking your steering problem, did they check for worn tie-rod ends and the link from your steering box to the rest of your steering linkage for worn parts?

Bilstein shocks, although great shocks, are not the most ideal shocks for the F53 front suspension. Most folks now use the Koni FSD shocks which provide a softer ride and seem to help improve directional stability.

I've also heard folks discuss toe-in as being very critical in eliminating wandering. You may also consider installing the Safe-T-Plus steering dampener on your coach.

Good Luck

[NeilV]

Was the box rebult properly? They may not have set the cross shaft adjustment properly or may have reused a marginally acceptable shaft when they rebuilt it. I would start with checking the rebuilt box then drag link, tierod ends, any universal joint between the steering wheel and the steering box and the coupling. The king pins should also be checked and then a front end alignment done with the coach loaded as you would have it when on a trip.

[full-timer]

Check and make sure air pressure in front tires are correct.

Joe

[pappyrsg]

Thanks for the comments folks. All good suggestions and generally all already checked / addressed. I'm actually working the shock situation with Bilstein.
The steering box seems very tight. Before its rebuild, with another person wiggling the steering wheel through the play (+- 1" then), the shaft into the steering box moved very visibly and the output shaft did not. Since the rebuild, wiggling the wheel through the play (now about 1/2"), the shaft into the box does not seem to move much at all (I can barely see it budge and have repeatedly asked the wife if she's moving the wheel and then watched her doing it). It seems there must be some movement or flexing above the steering box... perhaps a loose steering wheel or some sort of flexible or rubber coupling? Has anyone seen or heard of that? Has anyone pulled the trim on one of these to expose the steering wheel / shaft mating?
Also, again, does anyone have any specifics as to toe, caster, camber settings that worked well with this specific chassis?

[Richard S.]

You need to have your coach weighed, each corner is the best, but if you can't then front axil and rear axil and over all. Then adjust tire air pressure to match your load.If you do a search on this web site you will find this is a problem with all chassis makes. PS.Make sure your coach is loaded with fuel, water and cargo when you weigh it.

[Capt. Flipper]

Just another thought. May not be a steering problem at all. Another vote for getting axle weights. If the front axle is too lightly loaded, you will experience all the symptoms you describe.... rough ride, wander and a disconnected feel in the steering.

[pappyrsg]

Thanks folks.
I'm working the issues on three fronts... front and rear loaded weights (no facility for four corners here in Tucson) plus BFG sending me detailed literature on tire pressure / weight recommendations, the repair shop and I are researching possible flex / play / looseness in steering components above the steering box, Bilstein working the shock issue.
Regardless, feel free to contribute any other suggestions.

[pappyrsg]

Tire pressure, steering box and steering shaft u-joint issues resolved, along with another alignment. Some improvement but not there yet. Thinking of springing for a Davis / Roadmaster TruTrac. Any suggestion where to get a good price (I'll install myself). So far, I've seen $395.99 at rvtoyoutlet.com ... much lower than CampingWorld but state "7-10 business days" (2 weeks?) to process order and they claim retail is $499 (my info per Roadmaster website backdata is $439).

[jrcnlc]

It sounds to me with youre over correction that something tight ,king pins balljoints steering box.Steering box adj i found to adj screw down to snug then back out one an one half turns.have wheel streight ahead .count turns when tightening so you can returne to old setting if nessary. caster should be about 5deg positive.There is a flex coupling just out of box or u joint if ujoint frozen will do this. 1/2 in play at wheel is pretty good

[John Hilley]

The Safe-T-Plus might help you a lot. It keeps the steering centered. I bought mine on eBay for $145.

[molepacker]

I have the same issues with my 1999 Bounder on the F53. New tires, new Bilsteins, first class alignment at the best shop in town. No evidence of play in steering components, but it can wear me out to drive for any distance. I have described the situation to the alignment guys as the steering is "neutral" and constantly has to be adjusted. I do not have the steering damper; I guess the previous owner removed it. I sure would like to hear some more thoughts on this. I will check weights as I have wondered about the effect of the long rear overhang.

Rick

[Frankie]

Welcome molepacker. I had some issues with mine after I packed it up with all the things I need on the road. After installing a rear trac bar and a safe-t-plus its 90%. I think once I get the Koni's I want it will be 100%. The rear trac bar is a good investment.