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Old 04-10-2015, 06:20 PM   #43
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Petersr58, A word to the wise should be sufficient. I agree with your assessment as well. Driving another Class A to have a comparison is great advice. Many folks on these and other forums don't have much truck driving experience and what they think is normal may be way off. I've read of guys threatening or actually selling their rigs because of exhaustive white knuckle driving that they believed or accepted as normal. One long haul trucker actually said that a person get's used to the lousy handling rigs.

I never indicated that I had all the answers and we are dealing with an issue without seeing much but from what I've experienced and my background something is not right with Chris's RV. I'm shocked and amazed that these many dealers have found nothing conclusive or definitive. From what Chris has reported I think they are just throwing parts at it which is absolutely wrong.

Here's the way I always approached and taught mechanics. I would hold up a car part in front of the class. Maybe a fuel pump or a U-joint. Then I would tell them that there were FIVE things they would have to learn about every this and every part: It's NAME (slang names as well). It's LOCATION. It's FUNCTION or purpose. List any or all SYMPTOMS exhibited when it failed. Explain how to TEST or evaluate it's ability to perform as designed.

Try it for yourself. Pick any part on any vehicle and answer those five items. If you can you are on your way to becoming a very good diagnostic technician.

Every part from a valve stem cap to a crankshaft, to an ignition control module or an oil seal can fill all those criteria. All and I mean ALL diagnosis begins with a through understanding of the role of each part in every system. The most important part is to understand the symptoms. Then go back to what part when it fails exhibits those symptoms. Many individual parts will make up a system like the fuel system or the charging system but for each system to function as designed each individual part must do it's job.

TeJay
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:04 PM   #44
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Has anyone on here experienced the Death Wobble? I have, it will almost jerk the wheel right out of your hands maybe even brake your thumb. The steering stabilizer is there to prevent that. Its a simple procedure and is one of the cheapest way to trouble shoot and remove the weakest part of the steering system. They do wear out and need replacing time to time. I'd start with that.
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:18 PM   #45
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DCDAN,
You do have a point to always keep in mind. I to have experienced the DW. However this situation we believe is different. The DW is the result of a combination of worn out parts, and perhaps excessive + caster. Chris (the OP) has had all steering linkages checked by an alignment shop and has had several shops address his concerns. At this point most of us are not real sure if it has been addressed properly or has been fixed.

Today I took some pictures of my set up to try and explain what might have happened to his rig. We are also waiting to hear from Chris to see if anything has developed from the business end of this problem.

Thanks for the input. We need a lot of help with this. Many of us are still scratching our heads as to what could be causing what he has described and the jury is still out.

TeJay
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:57 PM   #46
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Chris sure has been awful quiet these days. Sure hope all is well with his rig.

TeJay
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:57 AM   #47
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Just saw his last two videos from Utah. He's just clunking and banging along.
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:25 PM   #48
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Petersr58,
I've got some pictures to share and talk about with you regarding this issue but I'll wait until Chris gives us some report as to how he's doing.
When you say you saw his last two video's where are you seeing them?? Are they on this thread??? I've watched some of them but may be missing something.

TeJay
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:08 PM   #49
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On Youtube.com


"Chris Travels"

Interesting videos and you can see the bounce and hear the vibrations on most irregular road bumps.


I would be finding out and fixing the issue well before his destination; which is Alaska.
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:33 PM   #50
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F53 Steering wobble/Floor Repair

Hello, I had to jump over here from the Trek forum. Mostly GM folks there. Hope I am not off beat here.

Purchased a 2003 Safari Trek 3011 on a F53 Chassis. Notice several things with the steering wheel poking around and moving depending on conditions.

Some claim welds breaking cause this commonly. Mostly on the GM I think. It does look like some reinforcing was done on my front chassis/box connection.

Looks like they butchered the floor in the mean time. Just stripped it down and took pics.

GA Traveler above mentioned the floor plate on the F53 Chassis. During the reinforcing of my chassis by the previous owner, the connection between the floor of the motorhome and F53 plate is non-existent. Floor Moves.

I will attach my original thread here. Toward bottom we were getting to the problem: Please read and respond.

See pics:

Opened up the area under and near the drivers pedal. Absolutely no support. Metal chassis plate under pedals are just being supported by three bolts around wheel and three along dog house. See Pics. The rest just hanging out in air. This were the drivers feet rest when not on peddles.

It appears that some additional support was added under the front box/chassis but a very poor job of finishing/re-mating the chassis to the box in the cab under carpet and pedals.

I have some ideas already of running a wide piece of flat iron or aluminum along crack and bolting up and down. Please take a look at pics.

Wonder if I should start a new post with this?

L

Last Post on Treks:
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:42 AM   #51
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Wondering if anyone had a chance to look at photos and is able to explain the repair and what the original attachment between the Ford chassis plate and the motorhome was/looked like?

Thank you in advance,

LN
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:55 AM   #52
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I've looked at the pics but unless you can see it for yourself it's difficult (at least for me) to determine where the weakness is and exactly what could be done to reinforce the area. I'd tend more towards plate steel and angle iron bolted into place before I'd do welding. Welding can be problematic if there is any rust or carpet as well.

Maybe a talk to somebody from a metal fab job shop would be helpful. You might be able to get someone to come over on his time off for a smaller fee since maybe they just don't do that kind of stuff under normal conditions. He would know what they could do with the machines they have. Thicker sheet metal can be bent for strength in just the right place if you have a brake and seam folders which is part of a sheet metal fab shops equipment list.

TeJay
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