Steering wheel in left turn while going straight

[Roll]

2010/2011 Ford F 53 Chassis with Triton 363 V-10: Coachmen Encounter MH 37 foot TZ model.

This is driving me crazy. The wheels are properly aligned and handling is improved now but they still can't straighten out my steering wheel. They pulled the steering shaft and rotated it one spline which only moved the wheel from a 1/4 right turn to a 1/4 left turn. Can't get it centered because the splines are not small enough to get just enough change to make it straight or near straight.

You can't pull the wheel and simply rotate it like we did in the old days so here I am with this frustrating problem.

Anyone else have this and/or does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix it?

Thanks,

Roll

[stuhly]

Look at the drag link from the steering gear box to the left front wheel and see if there is a threaded adjustment on it. My Providence does and my Discovery did too.

[John Mo]

Did you get a full alignment or just a check of the toe? My caster was off at delivery and gave me exactly the same symptom until it was corrected. The one Ford dealer near me with a heavy truck shop was able to determine that the caster was wrong, but they had to send it out for alignment. They were only able to handle adjustments to toe in-house.

[smack2020]

I have an 07 bounder. The steering wheel was crooked from the day I bought it new. I took it to the ford dealer, might I add that my local Ford dealer sucks. The [moderator edit] repair guy says "it looks like you hit something and that is why your steering wheel is crooked". It was crooked from the day I picked up the Moho. I got tired of figthing with them and now I have just got used to the wheel not being straight. Good luck.

[Hikerdogs]

Unless the spline pattern has been changed the shaft should have 40 splines. That means moving the wheel one spline would change the position 9*. That's far less than a 1/4 right turn to a 1/4 left turn. I'll bet they didn't mark the original position and took a guess as to how many splines they were moving.

[Pirate]

Had my 2006 alignment done twice recently, both times the steering wheel was pulled IAW Ford procedures which made it perfectly straight-both times. He did say something about it almost not being centered the first time though due to spline alignment.

[trainsktg]

Mine was canted right at about 1 o'clock until I had a full alignment (toe, castor and camber) performed at a truck shop. The tech didn't even have to try to get it straight, it wound up that way after he was done working underneath.

Keith

[Roll]

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuhly Look at the drag link from the steering gear box to the left front wheel and see if there is a threaded adjustment on it. My Providence does and my Discovery did too.

I looked; no adjustment.

[ga traveler]

I was a service Manager. We did not do alignments. I had to drive the motorhomes to the alignment shop and get them aligned. The tech always had me sit in the coach for weight, and when he told me, hold the steering wheel straight. They never removed the steering wheel. They always trued the steering with the adjustments.

[HeapBigEngin]

I don't really know about aligning the newer Ford chassis, but, in the past, centering steering wheels was performed AFTER toe-in and caster/camber (if applicable) were set. And centering steering wheels was NEVER performed by removing steering wheels and usually not done by "re-setting" splines between box and steering shaft. There is a set manufacturing process in which steering boxes are properly centered, with the steering shaft then properly mated to that box. This is particularly important on power steering boxes where proper centering is critical. Counting splines seems to me be only a last resort if all else fails.

On typical Ford (and I imagnine others of which I am not familiar) rear wheel drive vehicles, steering wheel movement/adjustment was controlled this way - chock the front wheels lightly; mark the left and right tie-rod ends and their corresponding sleeves at the same spot; loosen all 4 tie-rod sleeve clamp nuts; and then rotate both tie-rod sleeves forward or backward the same amount....rotating the sleeves in the same direction (VERY important). This has the affect of moving the main tie rod section left or right (taking the steering box pitman arm with it) independent of the tie-rod ends and moving the steering wheel accordingly....usually WITHOUT disturbing the toe-in setting. Toe-in would be re-checked and adjusted at each wheel accordingly and then the sleeve clamps secured. These are very minor changes down below, but can make a major difference in the steering wheel's location....AND in your aggravation level.

This procedure is in most every Ford Shop Manual in years past. I honestly don't know if it still applies to newer trucks. R&Ring steering wheels to center them is quick....but incorrect. It can interfere with proper turn signal operation and also effect steering wheel return. Also, it seems that too many techs today finish an alignment....but completely forget about proper steering wheel position. Just had that happen on our vehicle. The tech had to re-rack the vehicle, set up the equipt again and properly center the steering wheel....all at HIS expense.

Please let us know how you resolve this. Thanks!

[Hikerdogs]

Quote:

Originally Posted by heapbigengin I don't really know about aligning the newer Ford chassis, but, in the past, centering steering wheels was performed AFTER toe-in and caster/camber (if applicable) were set. And centering steering wheels was NEVER performed by removing steering wheels and usually not done by "re-setting" splines between box and steering shaft. There is a set manufacturing process in which steering boxes are properly centered, with the steering shaft then properly mated to that box. This is particularly important on power steering boxes where proper centering is critical. Counting splines seems to me be only a last resort if all else fails. On typical Ford (and I imagnine others of which I am not familiar) rear wheel drive vehicles, steering wheel movement/adjustment was controlled this way - chock the front wheels lightly; mark the left and right tie-rod ends and their corresponding sleeves at the same spot; loosen all 4 tie-rod sleeve clamp nuts; and then rotate both tie-rod sleeves forward or backward the same amount....rotating the sleeves in the same direction (VERY important). This has the affect of moving the main tie rod section left or right (taking the steering box pitman arm with it) independent of the tie-rod ends and moving the steering wheel accordingly....usually WITHOUT disturbing the toe-in setting. Toe-in would be re-checked and adjusted at each wheel accordingly and then the sleeve clamps secured. These are very minor changes down below, but can make a major difference in the steering wheel's location....AND in your aggravation level. This procedure is in most every Ford Shop Manual in years past. I honestly don't know if it still applies to newer trucks. R&Ring steering wheels to center them is quick....but incorrect. It can interfere with proper turn signal operation and also effect steering wheel return. Also, it seems that too many techs today finish an alignment....but completely forget about proper steering wheel position. Just had that happen on our vehicle. The tech had to re-rack the vehicle, set up the equipt again and properly center the steering wheel....all at HIS expense. Please let us know how you resolve this. Thanks!

Your steering wheel centering procedure may apply for some chassis but the F53 chassis has only 1 adjustable tie rod end and no adjustments on the oem drag link. That means if the toe has to be reset there will more than likely be a change in the position of the steering wheel. In 1999 Ford published QVM Bulletin No. Q-59. Unless Ford has changed the steering components in the last couple years it is still in effect.

F53 MOTOR HOME CHASSIS CLEAR VISION AND ALIGNMENT POLICY CHANGE
This bulletin covers aligning the front end and recentering the steering wheel. After completing the alignment the bulletin states in part:

1. Ensure the wheels are in the straight ahead position
2. Remove the bolt (T50 Torx)
3. Remove the steering wheel with a 2 jaw puller (OTC 205-116or Rotunda T77F-4224-B1)
4. Reposition the steering wheel to acheive horizontal or level position. There are 40 splines in the steering wheel which allows adjustment within -+ 4.5*
5. Install a new retaining boltPN N807493-S100 with a torque of 40 Nm -+ 6.0 Nm (29.4 -+ 4.4 ft lbs). If the old retaining bolt is reused apply a drop of thread locker PN EOAZ-1954-AA to the threads prior to installation.

NOTE: For the 1999 F53 clear vision should only be adjusted at the steering wheel. The U joint phasing on the intermediate shaft has been optimized to reduce torque variation and provide a positive center feel. It is important to mantain the position of the intermediate shaft U joints relative to the steering gear input shaft. Adjusting clear vision at the steering gear will degrade steering feel.

In addition Ford recommends that before begining the alignment the motorhome be loaded to its "normal" traveling weight, including a full tank of fuel, fresh water, propane, and any other cargo that you normally travel with.

[wackymac]

Hikerdogs--My 2001 F53 chassis has 2 adjustable tie rod ends; one on each end of the tie rod. I was also thinking about making an adjustable drag link to center the wheel.

[TXiceman]

First, do not take it to Ford. Take it to an independent truck suspension/alignment shop to get it fixed correctly.

Ken

[HeapBigEngin]

Hikerdog.....very interesting. Things have changed, that's for sure. And probably for the better! Thanks for the update.