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Old 12-26-2014, 12:53 PM   #15
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You really need to get a fuse tester (little device that checks the fuse while still in it's socket) or a multimeter.

A friend of mine had a class c like yours and the same thing happened. Turned out to be a fuse in a fuse box under the hood close to the front of the engine.

With the multimeter, it only took a few minutes to go thru all the fuses we could find until the bad one showed up. He too, did not have a manual or an electrical schematic to go by.

good luck

Ron
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Old 12-26-2014, 01:00 PM   #16
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Just a thought, could be a bad ground. Try running a difference ground wire to dash lights.
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Old 12-26-2014, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanerd View Post
You really need to get a fuse tester (little device that checks the fuse while still in it's socket) or a multimeter.

A friend of mine had a class c like yours and the same thing happened. Turned out to be a fuse in a fuse box under the hood close to the front of the engine.

With the multimeter, it only took a few minutes to go thru all the fuses we could find until the bad one showed up. He too, did not have a manual or an electrical schematic to go by.

good luck

Ron
Have a multimeter and a fuse tester, have not found a bad fuse yet.
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Old 12-26-2014, 02:21 PM   #18
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It is located on the Left side of I/P harness and at "E1" in the diagram below.


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Old 12-26-2014, 02:28 PM   #19
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It is located on the Left side of I/P harness and at "E1" in the diagram below.


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but where on the motorhome is it located??
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Old 12-26-2014, 02:44 PM   #20
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Passenger compartment fuse panel
The fuse panel is located below and to the left of the steering wheel by
the brake pedal. Remove the panel cover to access the fuses.
To remove a fuse use the fuse puller tool provided on the fuse panel
cover.



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Old 12-26-2014, 11:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
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but where on the motorhome is it located??
Mine is mounted on the side wall near the E brake.
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Old 12-27-2014, 02:19 AM   #22
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not sure if it has a trailer tail light box that adapts orange flashers to the red... those boxes can do really strange things when they go.

Also the switch is another common failure in lighting issues...
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:21 AM   #23
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Maybe I should have included this:




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Old 12-28-2014, 03:40 PM   #24
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FIXED, finally found the problem. Took the light switch out and everything checked good. Noticed a brown wire hanging loose under the dash, turns out the brown feed wire for the lights goes from the switch up to the ICC switch and then out of the ICC switch into the harness to go to the lights. The loose wire was the one from the ICC switch, it had a connector to the other brown wire into the harness, somehow the wire had pulled loose from the connector, so no lights. I put a new connector on and now everything is fine with the lights. Thanks to everyone that gave advice, great group of people. Of course one problem fixed and another comes up, been parked for 4 days now and all of a sudden the steps won't come back up. A new adventure begins.
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:41 PM   #25
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Great news. Good for you to stick it through to the solution. And thanks for the feedback.
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Old 12-28-2014, 05:00 PM   #26
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In the same box you found the ignition relay there is a fuel pump and light relay as well they are usually interchangeable and relatively inexpensive at any auto parts store.

If you have a Ford operator manual it will tell you which relay is which, also be prepared that Ford normally has two fuse panels for your tail lights one panel is on the drivers side kick plate and works with the actual vehicle tail lights, then there is the bigger box that has separate fuses, as well as the light relay for towed vehicles.
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Old 12-28-2014, 05:46 PM   #27
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That is an odd one.... Regarding fuse testers.. There are two different ones I use, one is a battery LED device that tests fuses OUT of the circuit

The other is a test lamp, standard auto store thing, this looks a bit like an ice pick with a wire coming out the plastic handle and a light bulb INSIDE said handle.

Ground the clip, test a known good fuse by touching the little metal square in the top (Blade fuses) or the clip (Cartridge type).

LIGHT = Good ground, (And good power)

to test a suspect fuse touch BOTH of the ends, one at a time, LIGHT-LIGHT = Good
Dark-Dark = Problem elsewhere or fuse not powered
Light-Dark or Dark-Light = bad fuse.

No fancy meters, NICE BRIGHT LIGHT very swift test.
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:35 PM   #28
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Thank you for the update, I missed it earlier
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