Stuck on Empty even after fuel pump replace. NEED HELP!

[chrisdavid]

Okay, we have a 1995 F53 chassis (holiday rambler). The motorhome has 15,000 miles on it, it has sat for quite sometime. When we bought it the fuel gauge was STUCK on empty. We dropped the tank, removed the entire fuel pump/sender assembly. Replaced it with the new FORD part and harness. Put everything back in and it fires right up........HOWEVER the gauge is still stuck on empty.

We are fairly mechanical, but not very good with electrical.

We are frustrated because we can't seem to figure out why were are stuck on empty. We put 30 gallons in (80gallon tank) and the gauge doesn't budge.

Any ideas?

[jmerritt]

When you turn the key on/off does the fuel gauge move? If it doesn't it could be stuck or maybe the electrical connections to the back of the gauge are loose. Worst case the gauge is bad. Have you tried tapping the gauge? How do your other gauges read?

John

[subford]

When you say empty do you mean the needle points to the "E" or the needle is peg below "E"?

If it is peg below "E" it means the yellow wire with a white stripe is shorted to ground someplace.

You can check the yellow wire with a white stripe at the cluster and empty should be 16.3 ohms + or - 2 ohms.
If you have zero ohms then you have it shorted to ground.

[wa8yxm]

When they replaced the pump, they did not hook up the sensor lead, or it's broken elsewhere under the rig or dash.

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm When they replaced the pump, they did not hook up the sensor lead, or it's broken elsewhere under the rig or dash.

If they did that the needle would peg above full.

Fuel high in the tank resistance high ("F" = 158 ohms + or - 4 ohms).
Fuel low in the tank resistance low ("E" = 16.3 ohms + or - 2 ohms).

[jmerritt]

Nope open from sender (0 resistance) to gauge will indicate Empty. Ground that wire and the gauge should go to Full.

John

[jhlady]

Chris/David,

Not sure if this will help or not, but I had this happen to me when I changed the battery on one of my rigs. Drive it around for awhile, miles/hours, and see if it corrects itself. Mine did and has been good ever since.

John

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmerritt Nope open from sender (0 resistance) to gauge will indicate Empty. Ground that wire and the gauge should go to Full. John

That does not make any sense. You are saying zero resistance will indicate Empty and Full.
A grounded wire is Zero resistance.
A open wire is infinity (max resistance).

Here is the diagram from the 1995 F53 shop manual.




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[chrisdavid]

Thanks for the info.

The gauge does not move when the key is turned. I haven't seen it move at all....ever. It's stuck below "E". We carefully wired everything correctly when replacing the fuel pump/sender unit.

All the other gauges on the dash seem to function properly. We are simply lost. We have no other ideas on what to do!

Where do I start. It appears that gauges are all one cluster. Where do you suggest I start on figuring this thing out? I put 30 gallons in after we replaced the pumper/sender.

Thanks again!

Chris

[Mekanic]

Check your grounds. Metal tank ?? if so it should be grounded as well. You can never have too many grounds.

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisdavid Thanks for the info. The gauge does not move when the key is turned. I haven't seen it move at all....ever. It's stuck below "E". We carefully wired everything correctly when replacing the fuel pump/sender unit. All the other gauges on the dash seem to function properly. We are simply lost. We have no other ideas on what to do! Where do I start. It appears that gauges are all one cluster. Where do you suggest I start on figuring this thing out? I put 30 gallons in after we replaced the pumper/sender. Thanks again! Chris

Your ground (G300) for the Fuel Gauge sender is located LH side of vehicle, near rear lamp harness connector C303 (at F6) in the diagram below.
To troubleshoot the gauge system use the PDF I have posted below.

[jmerritt]

Subford, my apologies you are correct and as you stated earlier the wire is probably grounded somewhere between the gauge and sending unit. Chris have you metered the connection at the gauge as Subford suggested? If you don't have a meter and assuming you have a good ground at the gauge and the tank, run a replacement wire from the sending unit to the gauge. If the gauge works you have found your culprit.

John

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmerritt Subford, my apologies you are correct and as you stated earlier the wire is probably grounded somewhere between the gauge and sending unit. Chris have you metered the connection at the gauge as Subford suggested? If you don't have a meter and assuming you have a good ground at the gauge and the tank, run a replacement wire from the sending unit to the gauge. If the gauge works you have found your culprit. John

No problem I have been wrong more than one on these items.
Chris here is a photo of the wire as as it goes into the cluster.
Also check the Anti-Slosh Module, if it is loose or not making good contact it will cause the fuel gauge not to work.

Fuel Wire From Tank:


Anti-Slosh Module:


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