Community Forums

Fugitive861 · 08-15-2019, 05:50 PM

1999 F53 with 4R100 transmission. Parking brake is on rear of transmission and leaking a little fluid. I understand that the parking brake assembly is bolted to rear of transmission and has its own oil supply. Will be tearing into it soon to identify what is leaking. Does anyone have a parts diagram or repair procedure. It's not in my Bishko Workshop Manual. Thanks.

House Husband · 08-15-2019, 05:57 PM

Not a job for rookies. Before you tear it down, get out your dial indicator and check end play. Then make the necessary shim adjustments up on reassembly. If memory serves me correctly, about 0.003".
Pieces parts and diagram. https://www.allstategear.com/ZF-Park...rts-s/1986.htm

John Wayne · 08-17-2019, 04:20 PM

There is a write up with pictures on how to do it I down loaded it at one time. Ford will tell you they are not rebuildable buy a new one. But C.H.Topping a brake shop in Long Beach, Ca. will rebuild it and put in new brake shoes. Research rebuilding F53 e-brake and see if you can find the article.

Waiter21 · 08-18-2019, 07:01 AM

Check the fluid level. drain and re-fill:

https://www.1999southwind.com/f53-pa...y-fluid-check/

All State Gear has parts for it, including an overhaul kit with new shoes, bearings, seals. Double check with them for you r specific brake, you probably have a ZF Parking brake. Google it and you'll see a lot of results.

This is an assembly manual. The differences will be, you probably do not have a speedometer gear.

http://1999southwind.com/DOWNLOAD/F5...5729_brake.pdf

OPERATION - Whenever I apply the brake, I apply it HARD.. The BRAKE light is very hard to see. but if the brake is applied hard, the MH will not move when its in gear.

leadman · 08-19-2019, 08:53 AM

Don't recall the exact amount of fluid in the housing, 4.4 oz. maybe so don't let it get low.

Fugitive861 · 08-19-2019, 11:58 AM

I removed the ZF parking brake unit and disassembly went well. I did need to use a hydraulic press to get the drum off of the shaft. However it appears to get the rear bearing off the shaft the puller is going to pull on the bearing cage and not the inner race. I’m assuming this will ruin the bearing and a new one will be needed. If anyone who reads this has done the rebuild, can you confirm this? Thanks.

House Husband · 08-20-2019, 11:23 AM

There is just room to get a small flat punch on the inner race. Work you way around that race with a punch and hammer and it will come off. Not a very tight fit. You will not damage the bearing because you are not applying any pressure to the rollers. The fun part is putting it back together. Put the bearing in the housing, install seal, then insert the shaft and press the bearing on the shaft.` I've replaced the seals on 6 of those ZF brake assemblies.

Waiter21 · 08-20-2019, 12:02 PM

Pictures, Take a lot of pictures. I'll probably be doing this next spring

RRR · 08-20-2019, 02:49 PM

There was a write up with pictures on rv.net sometime ago but I can't locate it.

Did you by chance see these?

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/emerg...f53-78154.html
Starting with post #5.

https://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/...d/15087708.cfm

leadman · 08-20-2019, 06:35 PM

A trick to assist reassembly of shafts and bearings like this, differentials, etc. Is to put the shaft in the freezer the night before reassembly. The bearing can be put in the toaster oven at about 200 degrees. Lube the surfaces and have a punch and hammer ready in case the bearing hangs up. Most of the time they just drop right together.

You should wait until both parts are equal ambient temperature before settings clearances.