The real problems and fixes for the Ford F53 chassis..

[Solask]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

heres my new 2016 winnabago 26 he 6 speed..



pulling a 22' loaded box trailer up a 6% grade

Horrifying! Your hitch rating is 5k lbs right?

[PbdBlue]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

how do you figure???

Unless I misunderstood your weight readings you are probably running somewhere in the neighborhood of 750# - 1000# of tongue weight and that is going to have a significant effect on the ride\handling of the chassis. Just the fact that the trailer weighs 50% of the motorhome weight is a contributing factor. You're most likely 2X the tongue weight the stock hitch is rated for and probably the criteria Ford used when designing the chassis. I'm not capping on you about your setup. I ran similar for a very long time but it does come at a price. Comparing your ride\handling issues to that of the average RV'r is kind of apples to oranges.

[LVRVLUVR]

Originally Posted by Rkh

Horrifying! Your hitch rating is 5k lbs right?

no 10k with 12000 spring bars and 1200lb ball rating..

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

the thread is about "REAL PROBLEMS" & FIXES...

if you don't have a real problem...I guess you would not have a fix either???

The real problem is some cases body builders don't properly match the house with the chassis. When they do there are no problems, and no need for any "fixes".

[Solask]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

no 10k with 12000 spring bars and 1200lb ball rating..

So you modified it?

[LVRVLUVR]

Originally Posted by PbdBlue

Unless I misunderstood your weight readings you are probably running somewhere in the neighborhood of 750# - 1000# of tongue weight and that is going to have a significant effect on the ride\handling of the chassis. Just the fact that the trailer weighs 50% of the motorhome weight is a contributing factor. You're most likely 2X the tongue weight the stock hitch is rated for and probably the criteria Ford used when designing the chassis. I'm not capping on you about your setup. I ran similar for a very long time but it does come at a price. Comparing your ride\handling issues to that of the average RV'r is kind of apples to oranges.

the coach weighs about 14,500... the front axel is at 5000 loaded..

the drive axel is at 10k loaded......that's less than 500 at the hitch.....right???

the whole rig all three scales is 22500

[LVRVLUVR]

Originally Posted by Rkh

So you modified it?

yes sir.... I own a fab shop...

[LVRVLUVR]

Originally Posted by Rkh

Horrifying! Your hitch rating is 5k lbs right?

so, horrifying... have you rolled across the scales with your rig??

what brakes are on your toad...

[Solask]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

so, horrifying... have you rolled across the scales with your rig??



what brakes are on your toad...

Yeah, I'm good. I'm at 22k with a 2800lb toad with a surge brake system. I have never seen 75 mph in it..
Handles like a dream... 90lbs pressure in all 6 tires. I'm just a vanilla guy.

[Ted Lambert]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

I think you need to read it again

Why? What did I miss?

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by ColdForged

I'm very curious about this statement. I've seen it many times or something like it. "I felt so comfortable I was even tempted to use one hand on occasion" is another similar statement. Are people's rigs that flighty that you literally have to hold on with both hands?

I only ask because even on my first trip back from the dealer from Memphis to Raleigh (my first time driving anything larger than a U-Haul), the photo below shows my driving position. At that point I had the stock 2016 Ford 24k chassis with Sumo Springs from the factory and a Blue Ox Tru Center installed (improperly, as it turns out, but that's a longer story). It was a bit flighty and I had a front-end alignment performed which helped. My only real beef was push from passing semis, so in the off-season I installed a Super Steer rear trac bar but I haven't had it out on the interstate since then to test it out.

There's only one time I've "white-knuckled" it, and that was crossing the interminable bridges out heading for Cape Hatteras at night with the wind kicking up. It was controllable still, but I was playing into my own hellish nightmares since it really looked like I was driving over an unending abyss while having malevolent creatures try to shove me off the edge.

EDIT: I should point out that I don't bomb down the interstates at 75-80 either. I feel like the coach is imminently controllable and comfortable at a max of about 63 MPH and I have the cruise set at that speed at most. Yes, I've had it at 70 and it did feel more flighty, hence why I cruise along at "vacation speed". Perhaps that's the difference?

My first year and first time driving a coach was a "white knuckled" drive mostly due to inexperience and no expectation on how the rig will react to bumpy roads and trucks flying by on the interstate.

After more time behind the wheel, it became much easier to drive. The improvements to the suspension made the ride very enjoyable. My speed on the highway is between 60 and 70 on average.

[PbdBlue]

[QUOTE=LVRVLUVR;2981340]no 10k with 12000 spring bars and 1200lb ball rating.

I thought Ford specifically prohibits the use of an equalizing hitch with the F53?

[Mike and Cha]

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs

The real problem is some cases body builders don't properly match the house with the chassis. When they do there are no problems, and no need for any "fixes".

X2.....and I'm not too impressed with some of the videos either. Running a MH of any size at 75 mph is nothing to brag about.

[Dave-Oh]

Originally Posted by LVRVLUVR

....first trip to the tire store, complaint was the viberation and tire shake.....one of the fronts was 14 oz out of balance...all the tires were bad..good year replaced them all......;

still not happy with the tires,..wish my 22.5s would fit...
sooo... I changed the tires to 225-70-19.5s.....wrong thing to do....

so I'm changing back to the 245-70-19.5s. this morning

the short wheel base (158) is nice to tow with ... ti's easy to get around with...

LUVR,

I'm still trying to stop a vibration - I have the 190" wheelbase 16000# chassis with the 19.5" stamped steel rims with the GY RV 670 245/70R 19.5s at 85lbs

Goodyear has also changed all of my tires. Ford has rebalanced the drive shaft and changed the king pins. Tires were road-forced, balanced, ad-nauseam. No improvements until I tried to use stud piloting tools to center the wheels in case the center-hole was too large (see ford's vibration issues 1999 -2001). Tools too large for stud holes so wrestled the tire/wheel back on - rotating it about 90 degrees and, surprise! steering wheel vibration nearly gone.

The point? I've been told by three sources that:

1. Changing tire brands will solve the issue (when folks having this trouble change tire brands, they never come back)
2. Changing to Michelins will solve the issue (what you're feeling is pure tires)
3. Goodyear "can't make a round tire"

You mention "vibration and Tire Shake". How do you diagnose this as opposed to out-of-round or off-center?

I suspect the rear tires are the issue (feel the vibration mostly in the floor/seat now). I was looking at the aluminum wheels as they are better engineered, but they only come in 6" widths as has been noted. Are the GY's subject to issues r/t sidewall issues from the narrow rims (6.75" wide)?

Why didn't the 225's work? what was the result when you down-sized to the 225s that made you decide to go back to the 245's with the 6.75" width rims?

just trying to pick your brain....