Turn Signal Problem

[Wofour]

2016 Holiday Rambler Admiral XE 29TT

I discovered a problem with my front signal lights shortly after my RV Warranty expired. I went to two Ford Dealers and both said they cannot fix it because the RV Manufacturer probably modified the wiring. I personally do not believe it has anything to do with the Motor Home but rather with the Chassis Wiring. With the Head Lights off, I have normal Turn Signal and Emergency Flasher Operation. With the Head Lights on the left signal light is on solid and very dim and nothing is lit on the right. Neither flashes. Also, with the Head Lights off, the side cameras come on with the signals. When I turn on the Head Lights the rear camera comes on and stays on.

Question 1: Am I correct in assuming this issue is a Ford Chassis issue and a Ford Dealer should fix it under my 3 year 36000 warranty?

Question 2: I had an appointment at the REV Technical Center in Early June but had to cancel due to family emergency. Cannot get another appointment with them until October. Has anyone had any luck just showing up there without an appointment. I really do not care who fixes it at this point. I have checked all fuses and wiring and see nothing obvious.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[BFlinn181]

I'd check all ground connections in the headlight and turn signals area. Use a jumper wire connected to a good ground and use it to see if conditions change when you add the ground jumper wire to a connection.

[DFitz]

I had a similar issue with my motorhome - turn signals did not work correctly when the headlights were on...
Turned out that the parking light hot was tied to the turn signal ground. Pull your front or rear turn bulb and see if your symptoms change - if so the wires are crossed.

[TeJay]

This is just the way I'd handle an electrical issue like you are experiencing.

Why do we automatically assume that an electrical issue has to be solved by an RV technician or even a Ford technician?? When we do this we limit our choices.

Yes I do understand that working on an RV is different and yes experience with working on RV's will give some insight that may be specific to RV's.

Electrical troubleshooting, diagnostic skills and techniques are basically the same regardless. Yes, there is a difference between 120 VAC and 12-VDC but many of the same issues will be present and are common to both. Things like: poor grounds, opens, shorts and cross shorts.

From your description it seems like you are experiencing something we call a cross feed of voltage or cross short. If you turn on one electrical device and something not related turns on. It's getting voltage from another hot wire.

This happened to me back in 1972. It was my first year as an automotive instructor and I was learning all the time. I took our only car a 1968 Buick Opel (used) to the shop on Saturday because it was doing some crazy stuff.

When we'd turn the wipers on they worked. When we'd turn them off the wipers did not park but just stopped any where in its travel. Since it was an Opel and new to me I just assumed that was normal.

A few months later the starter worked but would continue cranking even after the engine started. The extra cranking time was going a few seconds longer each month.

I stumbled into what caused all my electrical issues by accident. Somebody had added the radio and antenna. The antenna was installed on the right front fender and there was no rubber grommet used. Water had run in and down the inside of the fender and settled on the fuse block. I took it off and the back side was completely filled with green corrosion similar to what you see around the battery posts.

After everything was back together the wipers parked as they were supposed to. The starter stopped its extra cranking after the engine started. All of that was caused by cross voltages and poor grounds.

I never ran into the same issue like that again but never forgot the lessons learned.

Bob in post #2 also hit on a good point and a great technique as well. All circuits need a ground. Without a proper ground the power does not pass through a load. You supply a ground and see if anything happens differently.

Try to find a Mom and Pop or independent shop with a good diagnostic technician who knows how to troubleshoot.

Here's a way to TS this. If two things are working when one switch is used try pulling fuses until one or the other stops working. That would help to isolate where you might be getting some cross voltage feed.

It's going to take a good electrical trouble shooter to solve the issue but it's not impossible. If you lived near me I know a guy who could solve it and it's not me but I'd give it a try for sure.

[THenne1713]

I agree with all comments made so far; issue is either grounding or cross contam/ leakage, so also 1) inspect all BULB SOCKETS for loose wires, bad bulbs/ bad connections/ corrosion, loosen and 2) re-tighten all ground connections you encounter. Walk around and if any lights look like any water damage, start there.

[Wofour]

As recommended I checked the wiring and found two of the three wires on the Turn Signal Lights were connected to the wrong terminal which crossed the Signals with the Parking Lights. Thanks for the suggestions!

[TeJay]

Great news!!!! The only question I have is if wires were crossed why did it work correctly as long as it did????

[Wofour]

Actually I do not believe the Signals ever worked properly. Since the indications on the dash showed no problem (quick flashing arrow) and I had never checked them with headlights on I did not realize there was a problem. I have found I continuously learn as we use our RV. Also as I read these forums and chat with others I find there is a wealth of information.

[jomo]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Great news!!!! The only question I have is if wires were crossed why did it work correctly as long as it did????

It worked because the blinker fluid was full. it's low now.

[ga traveler]

Originally Posted by Wofour

2016 Holiday Rambler Admiral XE 29TT



Question 1: Am I correct in assuming this issue is a Ford Chassis issue and a Ford Dealer should fix it under my 3 year 36000 warranty?



Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I don't usually make a comment after a prolem has been resolved, but Just to clear the understanding about what is Ford and what is motorhome. Ford supplies the chassis with everything that is chassis related. The engine is complete with a AC compressor and condenser and the hoses between the two. . If you have a compressor or condenser problem, take it to Ford. If you have a heater or evaporator problem Those are supplied by the MH manuf. Ford supplies a pigtail to the rear for all rear lights and a pigtail to the front lights and parking lights. If it is on the frame it is ford. If it is on the motorhome it is the motorhome manufacturers.

[TeJay]

jomo,

You're correct I forgot about the blinker fluid. LOL!

Wofour, It's funny you mentioned (quick flashing arrow). To most any tech if/when that symptom occurs something is wrong. Usually it's a non functioning bulb. I'm sure the manufacturers know that happens when a bulb fails and perhaps they don't fix it so we are alerted to an issue. I guess is causes an imbalance of resistance in the circuit and the flasher flashes faster.

You stated that it's been happening. I'm sure something was not connected correctly from the beginning.

[BellevilleRv]

When I first purchased my 1999 HR back about 5 years ago it was a private sale there was something odd about the way the flasher brake and turn signal lights worked we have day time running lights here so I don't know if there was a difference with head lights off as they are always on but the fault was with the flasher/relay" its not just a flasher" , was bad mine is at the bottom of the steering column and its a Ford item only at the time
Your problem sounds like a bad ground as a missing or poor ground seems to hunt for ground thru other lights and even try pulling of grounds and placing a star washer between the ground lug and chassis the bite thru the paint for a good connection
Good luck in your search