V10 Overheating F I X E D! ! ! !

[jcrowder47]

I am glad to report and to thank everyone who has read and responded to this topic. It has taken a little over two months to finally get to this point.

To recap; If the outside temp is less than 80, the temp was not a proglem, but let the outside air go above 80, and I am watching the gauge like crazy.
1.)Going up a long grade, the temp gauge would climb to the red zone. It would go down on level or down grade.
2.)Replaced termasate with no help.
3.)Replace fan clutch, very little to no help.
4.)Flushed rad, no help.
5.)Added second water temp gauge. This was a great idea, that was suggested. It showed what the water temp really is, instead of a gauge on the cluster, with no numbers. This second gauge showed that there was a bad temp senor. After, I installed the add on gauge, it show the water temp went up to and sometimes over 240, but, the cluster gauge went into the "RED" with "CHECK ENGINE" lite. Replaced the temp senor from FORD, $15.00. Both gauges now working together. It did show a problem with the main temp senor, this would give false readings to the computer and cause the engine to almost shut down. You need the senor that came from the factory for the computer, there is a way to add a second gauge. I suggest "EQUUES" electrial gauge, about $35.00, well worth it.
6.) Going up any long grade and especially up mountains became a nite mare. Had to pull over and let the engine cool down, before driving up any other hill or mountain. Kept hoping to crest the top, so the engine could cool down, before the next one.
7.)Replaced the rad and water pump, guess what? No more overheating. I suggest doing both, if you have high milage. You can not replace the water pump without removing the rad. So, make it easy for yourself, do both. This water pump is the smallest water pump I ever saw, about 4 inches across. If you have something like Good Sam's CSP, have both done. CSP will pay for the water pump and all the labor, but, not the rad. They do not cover any rad. Have the mech. tell them, that the rad has to be removed to replace the water pump. Which is very true. Driving from Mobile, AL to middle Mississippi, my temp "NEVER" went over 205, going up any long hill or high bridges. When I went down grade or on level road, the temp went back under 200. Thank GOD!!!!.
8.)Guess what else? A funny noise came from out of the engine compartment, it took me several minutes to figure out what it was. It was the fan clutch working. If the rad is clogged, mostly in the middle(odd), but that is where they get blockages, the fan clutch does not pick up the heat transfered from the rad. In other words, if the rad is blocked to where the hot water does its heat transfer, the fan clutch temp senor will never pick up that increase heat and will not spin at the higher rpms. If the rad is working correctly, it will allow the increase heat to hit the fan clutch senor, and you get that old loud sound. To test the fan clutch, remove the keys and put them in your pocket, go under the front of the coach, grab hold of the fan blades and try to spin it. If you get resistance, then it works. If it spins some or alot, then have it replaced.

If you are in the Mobile, Al area, for any problems, I would strongly suggest "Buddy Automotive & RV Services" at (251)660-0343, 5662 Jackson Road, Mobile, AL 36619. Ask for David. They only work on RV's and Commerical trucks. They are some if not the best I ever dealth with. I told David what the problem was over the phone as I was driving that direction, and he knew what the problem was. I asked if he could order the rad and water pump for me before I got there. He told me that if he got it to the Ford dealer before 3pm, he would have the next day. I gave him my VIN, and the next day the parts were put in, it only took a few hours to remove the old parts and replace them. Other shops wanted to charge over eight hours in labor (shop book time sheet), David only charged the time it took to do the job. At $95 per hour, that saved about half or better. If you go there with a problem, they also check everything else, to make sure you don't have other problems later.

If you have any questions about anything that I did or how to hook up the extra gauge. Please contact me at my E-Mail address @ jackcrowder@bellsouth.net.

[jcrowder47]

I am glad to report and to thank everyone who has read and responded to this topic. It has taken a little over two months to finally get to this point.

To recap; If the outside temp is less than 80, the temp was not a proglem, but let the outside air go above 80, and I am watching the gauge like crazy.
1.)Going up a long grade, the temp gauge would climb to the red zone. It would go down on level or down grade.
2.)Replaced termasate with no help.
3.)Replace fan clutch, very little to no help.
4.)Flushed rad, no help.
5.)Added second water temp gauge. This was a great idea, that was suggested. It showed what the water temp really is, instead of a gauge on the cluster, with no numbers. This second gauge showed that there was a bad temp senor. After, I installed the add on gauge, it show the water temp went up to and sometimes over 240, but, the cluster gauge went into the "RED" with "CHECK ENGINE" lite. Replaced the temp senor from FORD, $15.00. Both gauges now working together. It did show a problem with the main temp senor, this would give false readings to the computer and cause the engine to almost shut down. You need the senor that came from the factory for the computer, there is a way to add a second gauge. I suggest "EQUUES" electrial gauge, about $35.00, well worth it.
6.) Going up any long grade and especially up mountains became a nite mare. Had to pull over and let the engine cool down, before driving up any other hill or mountain. Kept hoping to crest the top, so the engine could cool down, before the next one.
7.)Replaced the rad and water pump, guess what? No more overheating. I suggest doing both, if you have high milage. You can not replace the water pump without removing the rad. So, make it easy for yourself, do both. This water pump is the smallest water pump I ever saw, about 4 inches across. If you have something like Good Sam's CSP, have both done. CSP will pay for the water pump and all the labor, but, not the rad. They do not cover any rad. Have the mech. tell them, that the rad has to be removed to replace the water pump. Which is very true. Driving from Mobile, AL to middle Mississippi, my temp "NEVER" went over 205, going up any long hill or high bridges. When I went down grade or on level road, the temp went back under 200. Thank GOD!!!!.
8.)Guess what else? A funny noise came from out of the engine compartment, it took me several minutes to figure out what it was. It was the fan clutch working. If the rad is clogged, mostly in the middle(odd), but that is where they get blockages, the fan clutch does not pick up the heat transfered from the rad. In other words, if the rad is blocked to where the hot water does its heat transfer, the fan clutch temp senor will never pick up that increase heat and will not spin at the higher rpms. If the rad is working correctly, it will allow the increase heat to hit the fan clutch senor, and you get that old loud sound. To test the fan clutch, remove the keys and put them in your pocket, go under the front of the coach, grab hold of the fan blades and try to spin it. If you get resistance, then it works. If it spins some or alot, then have it replaced.

If you are in the Mobile, Al area, for any problems, I would strongly suggest "Buddy Automotive & RV Services" at (251)660-0343, 5662 Jackson Road, Mobile, AL 36619. Ask for David. They only work on RV's and Commerical trucks. They are some if not the best I ever dealth with. I told David what the problem was over the phone as I was driving that direction, and he knew what the problem was. I asked if he could order the rad and water pump for me before I got there. He told me that if he got it to the Ford dealer before 3pm, he would have the next day. I gave him my VIN, and the next day the parts were put in, it only took a few hours to remove the old parts and replace them. Other shops wanted to charge over eight hours in labor (shop book time sheet), David only charged the time it took to do the job. At $95 per hour, that saved about half or better. If you go there with a problem, they also check everything else, to make sure you don't have other problems later.

If you have any questions about anything that I did or how to hook up the extra gauge. Please contact me at my E-Mail address @ jackcrowder@bellsouth.net.

["007"]

Thanks Jack for the follow up to your problems with the Ford V-10.
Did David say why the problem happened in the first place?
Good traveling to you.

[jcrowder47]

Some techs say never flush the rad, some say to do it every 50k miles. But, the main reason any rad blocks is trash or build up over time.

Today, with the outside air temp over 95 in Mississippi, I noticed on my second gauge, my temp went up to 100c or 212f, and heard the fan clutch kick in. The temp went to under almost 190, within a few minutes. This was on level road way. Its nice to finally get back to some good gas mileage. Remember, that the computer will adjust the injectors in hot/cold weather. By fixing my over temp problem, my mileage is back up to 7.5 to 9 mpg.

[NUJAC435]

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DO YOU HAVE TRANS COOLER? DOES IT RUN THROUGH RAD?
IF IT DOES TAKE IT OUT, BYPASS RAD. trans oil get hotter than rad in some long pulls. been there and done that twice.

[Roger Kneeland]

Jack,

Thanks for taking the time to post the fix to your problem ( especially with the extensive details)! It seems that so often that postings are responded to with many good ideas, but we never know the outcome and therefore don't learn much.

Related question :

I have allways wondered if radiator flushing is primarily a time or mileage based concern. I look at brake fluid flushing as a time based requirement for instance.

Roger

[jcrowder47]

My trans cooler did run through a cooler mounted in front of the A/C condencer. But, when I had a company (I won't mention),service my transmission before a trip across country, stripped the threads for the connectors. They put an different trans cooler over the orginial. Since I was having overheating problems, two years later, I removed the newer cooler, and mounted just behind the grill. I went to the hardware store and purchased a steel angle brace and four 1/4 self tapping 3/8 screws. I mounted the cooler on the cross frame tubing. I then ran rubber tubing to the medal tubing from the tansmission. Later, I added a electric fan with a temp senor. This will kick in once the transmission fluid heats up to the level you set. I then removed the orginial stripped cooler, this gave full air flow through the rad.

As far as the time wise for flushing the rad. It's hard to say. Some techs say mileage others say age. Personally, if you do alot of driving through the mountains or in high temps, or if you are having overheating problems. Then flush sooner than later.

It was almost exciting to watch the new gauge show 212f and hear the fan clutch kick in, and watch the temp drow under 200f. With the engine running at normal temp, your gas mileage might go up.

[Matt B]

Where did you get the fan with the temp sensor for your tranny cooler?

[jcrowder47]

I got the transmission cooler fan and sensor from a auto parts store. Went to a total of two parts stores, the first had the fan, but, the temp sensor was not what I was looking for, and with out directions. Found just what I needed at the second store.

Try to find a fan that covers most of the tans cooler. They make two different sizes, so make sure it's not to big.

It's not that hard to install, have to find a +12vdc that is switched on/off by the key, full time +12vdc (battery) and ground. Make sure, that there is a adjustment for it, so you can control what temp you want it to come on.

When my son brings my camera back, I will try to post some photos.