Community Forums

Geocritter · 08-10-2016, 06:49 AM

I’ve always used Walmart synthetic 5W-30 motor oil in my 4 cylinder 2005 Dodge Caravan. At over 200,000 miles it still gets 10,000 miles per quart. In fact, I usually change the oil at that time, when it’s down a quart.

The factory rebuilt Ford FI 460 V8 (with no catalytic converter) in my 1994 Class A Holiday Rambler is due for its first oil change at 1,000 miles from when I installed it last year. Because the first 1,000 mile oil change was mainly to clean the new engine of any rogue metal particles etc I used regular 10W-40 and a bottle of Lucas zinc additive for the engines flat tappet lifters. I’d planned to go with AmsOil 10W-40 Premium Protection Oil (product code AMO) after my first oil change. My problem is, I live and travel full time in my RV and AmsOil is hard to find outside of large urban areas, at least that’s what I’ve been finding. Since I’ve had such good service from the Walmart synthetic I’ve used in my Caravan with excellent results I was wondering how it’d be using Walmart 10W-40 synthetic, augmented with Lucas zinc additive, in my RV.

Steve

House Husband · 08-10-2016, 10:38 AM

Steve, keep using Walmart Synthetic. I started using Synthetic in my 95 Bounder 460 at 40,000 miles. Pulled the engine at 138,000, to install a stroker engine, and it only had 0.0015" wear in the cylinders. The lifters and cam looked shinny with no wear. The crank shaft bearings still looked good. The valve guides showed no wear. So at almost 100,000 miles using Synthetic, I see no reason to change brands. I would argue against using 10W40. It offers no lubricating advantage over 10W30 and does offer more pumping resistance. One of the weak spots of Ford V8s is the roll pin holding the distributor gear on. The oil pump gets its motion through that pin and gear. Giving enough pumping resistance, that pin will shear. Also that pumping resistance can be calculated to fuel mileage.
Ford originally recommended 10W30 for our 460s but now recommends 10W20.

Richard

J. Frank · 08-10-2016, 11:23 AM

I have had similar success having an expedition with 160k and 120k of that on Wmart synthetic with no oil usage to date. Of course a major oil company makes this oil and it has to meet API Specs just like major oil brands. Hard saying who makes it for them, but you can be sure Wmart had nothing to do with its manufacture.

Geocritter · 08-10-2016, 01:04 PM

Does anyone have any opinions about the Lucas zinc additive I've used? From what I understand flat tappet engine lifters have wear problems without it and that it's been removed from modern oils because, over time, it'll ruin the catalytic converter. Since my RV's not equipped with a cat I see no reason not to use it unless I'm erroneously basing my concerns on Madison Avenue fuel-additive BS.

Steve

House Husband · 08-11-2016, 05:59 PM

Engine builders recommend ZDDP for break in and for race engines with strong valve springs. Our MH engines don't have high valve spring pressure and don't require ZDDP after cam/lifter break in. From my last post, almost 100,000 miles on Walmart Synthetic with out ZDDP and no cam/lifter failure.
Don't over think your engine, just because you had one of those rare 460 failures.

Richard

Geocritter · 08-11-2016, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS7201

Engine builders recommend ZDDP for break in and for race engines with strong valve springs. Our MH engines don't have high valve spring pressure and don't require ZDDP after cam/lifter break in. From my last post, almost 100,000 miles on Walmart Synthetic with out ZDDP and no cam/lifter failure.
Don't over think your engine, just because you had one of those rare 460 failures.

Richard

Thanks for the heads-up Richard. Since I'm simply doing the first 1,000 mile oil change I'll go with the synthetic/Lucas this time, since I probably won't be changing oil again for at least 5,000 miles. By the time the new engine has a total of 6,000 miles on it I imagine it'll be well broken in and then I can forgo the Lucas oil treatment with a clear conscience that I've gone the extra mile and more.

Steve

SuperGewl · 08-15-2016, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geocritter

Thanks for the heads-up Richard. Since I'm simply doing the first 1,000 mile oil change I'll go with the synthetic/Lucas this time, since I probably won't be changing oil again for at least 5,000 miles. By the time the new engine has a total of 6,000 miles on it I imagine it'll be well broken in and then I can forgo the Lucas oil treatment with a clear conscience that I've gone the extra mile and more.

Steve

Don't believe the hype about not being able to go to 100% synthetic oil on the first oil change. With the new engines the tolerances are so tight that they need that synthetic oil to ensure they don't create those scratches and gouges in them that cause leaks in the first place. Take a look at the new cars coming off the line that require synthetic from the start. If you put anything else in them you void the warranty. I've done it with various engines and haven't seen anything but good results from engines for 100's of thousands of miles. Part of the key to vary the load and rpm's of the engine for the first 500 or so miles. If you heavy load the load the engine and work it like it's designed to be worked it will run better and last longer.
Just my .00000001 worth of info.