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Old 11-23-2014, 12:34 PM   #1
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Where to start? F53 suspension problems

Hello Everyone! I have a 2004 Fleetwood Bounder 30P with Ford F53 chassis. I am trying to figure how to correct some suspension problems with the chassis. First the chassis leans about 3-4 inches to the passenger side of the coach. Second, it rocks from side to side pretty badly when I encounter unleveled surfaces over 50 mph (I only driving it short distances until it is repaired). It does not appear to have any broken leafs or other parts.

I have taken it to several suspension shops and they all have different solutions, which bothers me because money is limited and I want to get it done right the first time. One shop wanted to add one leaf spring to leaning side, another wanted to add leaf spring to both sides and use a block on the leaning side to level the coach, another wanted to add air bags, and another wanted to replace both rear springs. One shop wanted to re-arc the springs and another shop told me you can't re-arc my springs???? I am 'leaning' towards add-a-leaf to both rear springs and using a block to level the coach, but would also like to ask for input from this site. I will most likely do the repairs myself.
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:02 PM   #2
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Where to start.....

[QUOTE=Ldb777;2321966]Hello Everyone! I have a 2004 Fleetwood Bounder 30P with Ford F53 chassis. I am trying to figure how to correct some suspension problems with the chassis. First the chassis leans about 3-4 inches to the passenger side of the coach. Second, it rocks from side to side pretty badly when I encounter unleveled surfaces over 50 mph (I only driving it short distances until it is repaired). It does not appear to have any broken leafs or other parts.

First place to start is to find out if in fact the curb side springs are weak? The first thing I would do is get the 4 corner weights to find out what kind of weight is on each of the tire's, then make sure you are within the weight specs. for your chassis. Then I would go under and take some measurements on the chassis to try and find out why it is leaning so bad, weak springs on one side? Adding springs is not the answer at this point, other wise it would of came out of the factory with them....... As far as the leaning, while going 50 mph +.......to be expected. There are items you can add, to try and control this to some extent.
Air bags, sway bars , new shocks..... Good luck and let us know what you find out.....
And sorry....first thing should of been
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/chassis-leans-31227.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=f53+...com&gws_rd=ssl
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:06 PM   #3
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Welcome to the forum. I've moved your post here to get a broader view. Good luck.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:18 PM   #4
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Is this a new to you MH? Some rocking side to side can be expected for a tall box. As palehorse89 recommended get the MH weighed, total and all four corners. What I did first was replace the shocks, first with Bilstein then with less then 5,000 miles on them I replaced the fronts with Koni. What a world of difference in the ride with just the Koni up front. Then I added Air Lift air springs (bags) with their wireless air system to the rear. That did help with the side to side sway. I had the same lean up front, talked to many spring shops. Same thing each one recommended something else. My right spring had a negative arch, so I figured it needed to be replaced. I checked with Ford and was able to buy a new spring for much less then any shop wanted for re-arching my spring. Ordered a new right spring from Ford and installed it myself. Coach was seating level, a few months later I noticed it was leaning on the right side again. To correct the lean this time I installed Air Lift air springs on the front, I just add air manually as needed to the front. I run 25 - 30 PSI on the front the coach rides well and doesn't lean to either side. So for me replacing right front spring was a waste of money. I have read where others have corrected the right side lean be installing a block under the spring. Since you say money is limited I would start by replacing the shocks. I recommend Koni, but they are pricey. Bilstein's are good I use them on all my vehicle, but not on the MH makes the ride to harsh. So people have been happy with monroe, all depends on how much you have to spend. Also helps if you able to safely do the work yourself, save the labor cost. Other should be along with their recommendations, and I'm sure some won't agree what I have done to my MH is worth the cost. But we love our MH and have no plans of getting rid of it.
BTW, before I started all the work I had my coach weighed, so I knew what I was working with.

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Old 11-23-2014, 02:24 PM   #5
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You should read about the Cheap Handling Fix in the attached link. Very long but it does help with the sway also. Change my recommendation, do the CHF first to see if it will reduce the sway.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...fix-72335.html

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Old 11-23-2014, 04:39 PM   #6
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If you add a leaf to both rear springs it's doubtful it will correct your leaning condition whereas if you add a leaf to the rear springs on the low side that may help.

We have Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on all 4 corners of our coach with individual inflation ports where bags can be inflated at different pressures. Your lean could possibly be corrected somewhat by inflating both bags on the low side to a higher pressure than those on the high side.

Just a suggestion

Good luck with resolving your problem and safe travels...
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:44 PM   #7
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You're getting good advice but you need to approach it in a reasonably simple way. It also might become a bit confusing as well and here's why.

Each suspension part does a job. Shock absorbers do as they say. They control the suspension rebound reaction after hitting a dip or bump. They have absolutely no effect on leaning.

Leaf springs, coil springs and torsion springs all do the same they they suspend the coaches weight. They allow the road to react with the frame which also holds the weight of the coach.

Now pretend for a moment you are flying an airplane. A plane can move on three axis: side to side (sway or roll), up and down (dips), and yawl or the plane heading directly north but the nose is point 10 degree east.

Your coach can move in all three axis as well. The up and down is from hitting bumps. The sway can be caused from hitting a dip on one side or when you enter a service station and hit a big dip in the road. Yawl or the coach twisting to the left then then the right is usually caused from wind gusts or semi's.

I'LL LIST THESE IN THE ORDER OF IMPROVEMENT BEST FIRST!!
1. Gt the coach weighed first as suggested. I'd check and adjust the tires first. To much pressure and the coach will ride hard. To little and it will wear the tires out. Each coach is different so get out the manual on recommended tire pressures.

2.Anti-sway bars control the roll or sway. Do the CHF both front and rear as suggested because it will cost you nothing. I can almost guarantee you will notice a big difference immediately.

3. A front and rear track rod. This will tie the suspension to the frame and reduce the twisting of the coach left and right from wind gusts and semi's. If you want send me a PM. I built our rear track bar for $45 and it works great and has for the last 6,000 miles with absolutely no issues. An aftermarket one will cost you $400 to $600.
There are front track rod available for that coach as well.

The coach lean is a suspension issue. Each spring is designed to carry a certain amount of weight. If you put one leaf in one side there's no guarantee they will be the same. The best way to fix the issue is to replace both springs at the same time. Re-arching does not work.
The absolute cheapest way to fix it is to put a block under the low side. That will fix the lean but it is just a band aid. New springs is best.

Perform the CHF first and see what you think. Install at least a rear track bar second. Then evaluate the change. You might be happy and wait for some $$$$$ to do some more later.

I'd stay away from the shocks just now. Yes they will help because they will dampen the spring movement as well as sway but the Koni's are over $500 and I don't even have those yet.

Take your time and evaluate each fix.

TeJay
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:15 PM   #8
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Where to start? F53 suspension problems

Four corner weights
Correct spring problem if weights are ok
Ensure tire pressures are correct per weight tables
Ensure all steering and suspension components are in good condition
Do the CHF (cheap handling fix)

Only after the above determine any remaining handling issues.

Only after the above if handling issues remain consider any aftermarket add ons.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:06 PM   #9
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Don't forget that the F53 is essentially an 11-ton box truck and it rides like one. We decided that it made more sense to just live with it for 2000 miles a year (or less) utilisation, rather than spend a lot of money trying to get a Rolls-Royce ride and then not being able to afford to use it.

The permanent lean to one side is a problem that even I would try to fix. It may just be that the manufacturer's design folks didn't do a good job on the weight distribution of the heavy things (kitchen, toilet both on the same side, along with the propane tank, fresh-water tank and other heavy components).

If that's the issue, then asymmetric suspension stiffness may be your only solution. Weighing all four corners to see if there's a major side-to-side difference would be the first thing to do.

Swaying in the winds and not cornering like a Mini-Cooper are not unusual. My F53 gives me heartburn on off-camber surfaces, where it feels like it will fall over - but it never has.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:28 AM   #10
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This is not my thread, but thanks for all who contributed. Still learning and you all make put it in language I can understand. TeJay, thanks for the clear step-by-step.
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:20 AM   #11
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Thank you everyone!!!

First- where do I get my vehicle weighed? Can I buy a portable scale at a reasonable price? Just a little history about my 04 Bounder: I bought it with 6000 miles about 5 yrs ago; it now has 33000. After driving fire engines for 25 yrs- it never has handled all that well. The rocking was not too bad, and it leaned a couple inches, which was not too noticeable. About 2 years ago, I had to have the coach towed about 125 miles. After that, it seemed the rocking and rolling has gotten worse and eventually I am no longer able to back it into my driveway because it is sagging too badly. I really want to move up to a diesel pusher and don't want to spend a lot of money on repairs, but I want it to be safe for the next owner. When I say it is rocking back and forth, it is really rocking!!!! I almost get motion sickness. It only stops once I slow down drastically. The rear leaf springs are both inverted, so I figure they need to be addressed- that's why I thought I would do two add-a-leaf and place a block on the leaning side. I know I probably should replace both rear leaf springs..... And even there, do I replace with original 3 leaf or increase to 4 leaf spring???? After talking with several repair shops, these coaches come in brand new with leaning and overweight problems quite frequently. So do I put lipstick on a pig, get her a new wardrobe, or just leave her home? ; ).
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:44 AM   #12
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I'm not a suspension expert, nor do I drive an F-53. But I do know that I would call Henderson's as if you look on their website they have an extensive set of F53 upgrades they do and I don't think they will let you leave unless the problem is satisfactorily resolved.

If you look at the 2009/2010 F-53, it is now a super heavy duty class a chassis - referred to now as an rv chassis. You would probably want to know that: the chassis now comes with adjusted Bilsteins front and back, sway bars front and back, front track bar, and variable rate jounce bumpers. Don't know how that compares previously and even the newer chassis is still modifiable of course.

Alternatively, would connect with Kelderman's.

Of course, I have always enjoyed plug and pray fixes, but suspensions are complex, though I haven't read anything fundamentally wrong with the advice given if you want to make it a diy project.

test drove a 2015 and the gap between diesel and gas is pretty small IMHO.

If you are otherwise happy with the rig, call Hendersons (easy to find on the internet) and go with them and bite the bullet on the $$$.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:46 PM   #13
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Ldb777:

If you go to a State truck scale when they're fairly quiet, you can get the front wheels on, then the back ones, then one side or the other. By subtracting and adding numbers you can get a 4-corner result.

In our part of the world (Washington State) most scales leave the displays on even when the place is closed and you can do you own shuffling about and get the numbers.

Another alternative is a Flying J truck stop, which often have a CAT scale.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:56 PM   #14
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I would say first off do one thing at a time. Get the coach so it rides level. drive it to see if the rocking remains. If so are the shocks on it now the originals? If so with the miles on it, it's more that likely time to replace them. if needed you can go on spending money on it till it rides decent. But do one thing at a time. There are a lot of good suggestions listed above.
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