Community Forums

RRR · 06-01-2018, 09:02 PM

I am just about to buy them for both axles. I am not concerned with doing the fronts the rears I'm wavering on.

I have seen a couple of comments that you may be able to get an angle drill between the frame and tires, and someone said you could raise it up high enough to miss the tires and get a drill in.

Any sage words of wisdom? The rears are SSR 187-54-2. Have watched a couple of videos so I got a good idea on what to expect - I think.

bowser4x4 · 06-01-2018, 09:27 PM

We did both axles on our Georgetown 351 DS and used the 187-54-1 for the rear. Could it be done without taking off the rear wheels? Maybe but the issue I think would be it would be much harder to level the Sumo Spring mount with the tires still on. We did pull the rear tires and it was a fairly simple process. In fact, I was reduced to "gopher" status and my 16 year old did most of the work. We did use the leveling jacks to raise the rear, BUT used a set of 12 ton jack stands to support the frame while working under it. The jack stands were $96.00 on Amazon. I would not work under anything with just a hydraulic unit supporting it.

The only issue is that on the passenger side of the coach, there is a sheet metal plate that would not allow us to put the bracket at the recommended height. I emailed SuperSprings and sent them a picture. They got right back to me and said as long as they were the same, it should not be an issue.

It was a fairly simple install and it did make a lot of improvement as far as body roll was concerned.

Bowser

RickySpanish · 06-02-2018, 01:18 AM

I also installed mine front and rear. As you suspect, the fronts are a breeze. The rear tires on my 22K chassis had to come off - no matter how high I lifted the rear end I couldn't get in there to drill the top bracket holes straight. I didn't have jack stands so I just used the levelers. I know that was dumb, and I don't recommend it (I'm actually going to buy the jack stands bowser mentioned from Amazon) but I survived and the install was a breeze once the wheels were out of the way. It took me around 20 minutes per side not counting the time to remove and remount the wheels. Do install the passenger side first because I also had a metal bracket in the way. You'll see when you do the install, just match the drivers side to the same height (as bowser mentioned) and you'll be level.

RRR · 06-02-2018, 06:48 AM

Thanks guys. Pretty much confirms my suspicions. For sure on the stands, that a risk I don't need to take.

I'll take a look-see for obstructions on both sides before I get started.

Sorry Ricky. I found the stands in Warehouse Deals for $64. I figure even if their made by the same company that China Freight uses they work long enough for me.

Was stupid that I asked about removing the tires as I have a set of Centramatics that I need to put back on,

that is another story.

fatguy57 · 06-02-2018, 03:20 PM

How about the torque on the lug nuts when reinstalling the rear wheels. Ive seen tire techs use 4 ft long torque wrenches to handle that 450 ft ib torque.

RRR · 06-02-2018, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cberlanga

How about the torque on the lug nuts when reinstalling the rear wheels. Ive seen tire techs use 4 ft long torque wrenches to handle that 450 ft ib torque.

Two 2' pipe sections on a 3/4 drive flex bar on a 33mm socket works for me. I use an old scissor jack for support as needed when by myself.

RickySpanish · 06-03-2018, 04:10 PM

I have a Bosch 1/2" 18v electric impact rated around 500 ft/lbs - so with a full battery I'm confident they are tight.

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...h181-132575-p/

fcbbob15 · 06-03-2018, 04:28 PM

I did front and rear on my F53. Fronts are pretty easy. I took off the rear tires so I could level the mounts. I carefully measured the bolt location before drilling. You can clamp the brackets in place to help if needed. It would be difficult to drill with the tires on. Use a quality drill bit. Because I wanted to be able to change a tire I have all the tools including a torque wrench and air tools. I don't recommend installing the wheels without a torque wrench.

RRR · 06-03-2018, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickySpanish

I have a Bosch 1/2" 18v electric impact rated around 500 ft/lbs - so with a full battery I'm confident they are tight.

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...h181-132575-p/

I have a HF one. Wouldn't trust it for anything mission critical.

Peter M · 06-05-2018, 06:09 AM

Did you guys install the rear top bracket with 6 fasteners per side ?
I would also apply Loctite Red for added security.

My sumo's were installed at the Tiffin factory with 4 bolts on the top bracket and the PS top front bolts disappeared. The ps rear top bracket bolts were very loose allowing the ss to become cocked bending the top bracket. The DS SS bolts were loose also.

Tiffin said the problem was due to incorrected rated fasteners provided by SS. For safety do check the front and rear fasteners periodically.

Longshot308 · 06-05-2018, 06:34 AM

I installed Sumo Springs on the front only. Our rear does not sway as much as the front. I have read that the biggest bang for the buck was on the front end. So I ordered them online and installed on a Saturday. I have air tools, so it took about an hour and a half. I took my time and double checked my work. We took a trip to Georgia after the install and what a difference. The ride is very controlled, not much side to side motion pulling out of gas stations, the lean around country road curves is much improved. I actually enjoyed driving the rig, normally it was a love/hate relationship on side roads. Instead of installing the Sumo Springs on the rear, I think I am going to upgrade to Koni shocks on the front and add a Safe T Steer and call it a day. Good luck with your install.

Dav L · 06-09-2018, 06:31 PM

I bought a torque multiplier for the wheel nuts off of craigslist. Keep your eyes out for a deal. I think I paid $100. It is in brand new condition.
Also had to get a 1 inch to 3/4" adapter. And had to get a 8"x 1" extension. 1" drive sockets from Harbour Freight for around $45 for the set.
I put a 3/4" torque wrench on the 4:1 multiplier and set for 110ftlbs.

Peter M · 06-10-2018, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

I bought a torque multiplier for the wheel nuts off of craigslist. Keep your eyes out for a deal. I think I paid $100. It is in brand new condition.
Also had to get a 1 inch to 3/4" adapter. And had to get a 8"x 1" extension. 1" drive sockets from Harbour Freight for around $45 for the set.
I put a 3/4" torque wrench on the 4:1 multiplier and set for 110ftlbs.

Dav, you also do need to allow for the torque multiplier inherent loss of torque. Your TM could have a loss of 8-15 %. The planetary gears reduce torque values.
I would up the torque wrench value by 12 %, and shoot for the 450 ft lbs spec for 22.5 aluminum wheels.
eg torque wrench set to 126 ft lbs X 4 = 504 ftlbs X 12 % loss = 443 ft lbs .this will get you a bit closer to spec.

Dav L · 06-11-2018, 05:55 AM

Hi Pete, yes, good point.
Actually, what I did do, since my 3/4" torque wrench has no history of calibration, was to have TA truck service tighten the nuts with their calibrated wrench (the type that "breaks on tight") and put my rig on the same nut(s) and set the torque wrench to same setting. So, whatever the numeric is on the torque wrench. I guess I should look in case I use / reset the wrench for a diff set of bolts...
If the numbers end up being around 126 then I would assume the wrench is somewhat calibrated.