A/C & Heater Blend Door

[67fisher]

Originally Posted by lonfu

With normal r134 you should be able to bring it down to 50 to 55 degrees from the center vent, max AC, fan on high, ambient temp 80. Next time I open up my inside unit, I'm going to look into a higher speed fan that can move more air through the vents.

I think I am done with this project. I installed a shut off valve in the inlet to the heater. Really didn't make any significant difference but it's in now. Here's my results: Ambient temp at the inlet to the condenser is 89 degrees. A/C on MAX. Door to outside air closed therefore door is open to coach interior. Air temp at the closest vent to the plenum is 54 degrees. All this at engine idle (750 rpms). This is a 35 degree drop which I think is good. And at highway speeds should be even better. I will continue to monitor this post should anyone have any questions or suggestions.

[lonfu]

Think I mentioned it before, this stuff will take the temp down lower. It is more efficient than r134.

Industrial R134a Replacement 6 ounce Can Equivalent 16 oz 134a Details and Online Ordering at Enviro-Safe, Inc


Per instructions, I used less of this stuff than recommended by the system specs. I found that it dropped the dash output temp by 12 degrees. Makes all the diff when the running the ac in the really hot weather. I got to where you are right now and gave up too. Then I installed this stuff. The only different thing I did, was the company claims you don't have to pull a vacuum. I don't trust that because of the moisture build up, so I pulled a full vacuum and got great results. Mine runs at 42 degrees, center vent, 85 ambient, idle, electric fan operating. It even runs colder when I'm moving.


Make sure you are using a infared heat gun when checking your temps. Those little ac gages are notoriously in accurate.

[10Boomer]

How much did you use to purge your whole system to replace the 134?


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[lonfu]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

How much did you use to purge your whole system to replace the 134?


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I don't remember off the top of my head. The company claimed I didn't have to pull a vacuum but I did it anyways to dry out the system. They tell you how many cans to use to exchange for your system requirements. I called and talked to a fella who seemed pretty knowledgable about changing out. As I recollect it was less than what r134 was called for. I would recommend it.

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by lonfu

I don't remember off the top of my head. The company claimed I didn't have to pull a vacuum but I did it anyways to dry out the system. They tell you how many cans to use to exchange for your system requirements. I called and talked to a fella who seemed pretty knowledgable about changing out. As I recollect it was less than what r134 was called for. I would recommend it.

Thx


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[Happycarz]

That refrigerant may work great, as it contains propane and/or butane. But it is highly flammable. If the system has no leaks or sudden ruptures, all is well. Otherwise, all bets are off.

SDS from their website:

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/docs/59264_645.pdf


2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by Happycarz

That refrigerant may work great, as it contains propane and/or butane. But it is highly flammable. If the system has no leaks or sudden ruptures, all is well. Otherwise, all bets are off.

SDS from their website:

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/docs/59264_645.pdf


2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ

Yikes thx for connecting to SDS, I guess this leaves the dream of aquarium in the coach too! Lol see SDS.


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[lonfu]

Originally Posted by Happycarz

That refrigerant may work great, as it contains propane and/or butane. But it is highly flammable. If the system has no leaks or sudden ruptures, all is well. Otherwise, all bets are off.

SDS from their website:

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/docs/59264_645.pdf


2008 Monaco Camelot 40' PDQ

Har, Har, Har..... I always had such thoughts too. But then I watched a tv show where some engineers shot up some 5 gallon propane tanks. Even through the tank was penetrated it did not blow up. For propane to become explosive it has to be in an enclosed area like a house and even then you have to give it a ignition source. The gasoline in one's gas tank and it's vapors are more explosive than propane. The $3 propane tanks that are used for barbaque's are more likely to leak than the $1000 dollar AC system on one's moho.

And most folks store them under their coach in closed compartments near their water heater, which is an open source of ignition. Then there is your gas tank vent and ones water heater?????

There is the hydrogen gas that common lead acid batteries give off too, got to be 10 times more explosive than propane and every moho has those too! Let's not forget the fool who tries to put out a diesel fire with garden hose.

Don't get me started!

[lonfu]

Did I mention that most diesel injection systems operate at 23,500 psi? Modern injection systems don't even need glow plugs because the pressure at the injector is enough to ignite the diesel? r-134 systems operate at a low 200 to 240psi on the high side of the compressor. when the system is at rest it is only about 50psi, at lest according to my gages. So, if some thing were going to pop, I'd be a little more worried about a diesel engine than 24oz of propane in a AC system. I told you not to get me started.

[10Boomer]

Well here are some related things I checked the past two weeks. Remember service center states there are no leaks in the system and it holds vacuum for over an hour. Many components replace.
I checked all interior vent doors for proper operation, lubed and checked in every position of vent to max A/C. It all works. Vacuum pump works great for vent doors, no issues. I ran engine for about an hour I can slightly feel the compressor kick on and off as I move the a/c switch on dash.
End result no cold air like describe in initial start of thread. Both my lines to the evap. ( in front above genset) are warm to lightly cool. Not like describe by first thread note.
The repair place assures me it was working, now maybe the compressor. Seems like it's a guess. I should have some cool air.
FYI go to owners section to see my pics of reattaching dash passenger a/c hose what fun! Thx let me know if you have any other ideas.


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[ahicks]

If the coach has been running with the AC on for more than just a few minutes, there should be frost on one of the 2 lines leading to the evaporator. If not, it's not "working" as your repair shop led you to believe. This would be true no matter the position of heater/defroster doors or if the vacuum pump is working.

It shouldn't be too hard to get a vantage point that would allow you to see if/when the compressor is turning. Trusting "feel" may not be the best plan.

Last thought, it might be time to consider finding a different AC shop. This issue, whatever it is, shouldn't be that difficult.

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by ahicks

If the coach has been running with the AC on for more than just a few minutes, there should be frost on one of the 2 lines leading to the evaporator. If not, it's not "working" as your repair shop led you to believe. This would be true no matter the position of heater/defroster doors or if the vacuum pump is working.

It shouldn't be too hard to get a vantage point that would allow you to see if/when the compressor is turning. Trusting "feel" may not be the best plan.

Last thought, it might be time to consider finding a different AC shop. This issue, whatever it is, shouldn't be that difficult.

I see the compressor turning when AC is on. You might be right.


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[10Boomer]

Update: installed new compressor, need to get hose ends installed going Monday to have this done.


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[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

Update: installed new compressor, need to get hose ends installed going Monday to have this done.


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Takes special ends for the Manuli hoses.


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