400 HP Cummins Oil and filter change

[efstewart]

Can someone point me to the best thread for changing the large oil filter (what type of wrench) and how to remove the fuel filter and fuel/water separator, on a 400 ISL Cummins (2006 Dutchstar)? Also, is that all that is needed to complete a bare bones oil and filter change? I already have the oil and filter types, and know about the fujimoto? valve option. Just need to know some details about the 3 filters, their locations, and proper removal and installation.

[michaelpatri]

On my first fuel filter change on my '07 Kountry Star with 400 Cummins, I had to remove the bracket holding the filters, and put them in a vise to get a LARGE pipewrench on 'em to pull the filters off. I used a strap wrench on the oil filter with good results. As to the Fumoto valve, I installed my valve on a full oil pan by having a friend hold my shop vac hose on the oil fill, while I unscrewed the oil drain plug and screwed in the Fumoto valve -- didn't spill even one drop of oil (due to the vacuum created in the engine by the shop vac). Now, I hold an empty jug under the valve, open the valve, then close it when the jug is full; works like a charm.

I did not pre-fill either the oil or the fuel filters -- you can prime the fuel lines by simply turning the ignition 'on' for 15 seconds, then off. Repeat this cycle several times, then start the engine.

The oil filter is on the left side of the engine -- simply crawl under, then look up -- it's hard to miss. On my rig, the fuel filters are conspicuous at the rear of the engine compartment.

If you have any questions or problems, call Spartan -- I'm certain that they can and will talk you thru any problems or questions you may have.

[Norm4015]

The engine oil filter is on the drivers side of the engine and you have to scoot under the engine to get to it. I use a large strap wrench on a 1/2" drive with an extension to get it off. I used the "vacuum cleaner" mehtod to install a Fumoto valve on the engine, then drained the oil in gallon milk jugs.

Your fuel filters are located behind the black cover under the batteries. Remove the cover and you will see a line of filters and I believe the fuel filters are on the right. Be sure to use the new gaskets that come with the new filters. I remove the fuel filter with a filter wrench that fits around them snuggly. I install the filters dry and use the engine prime to purge air from the fuel system. It takes several "primes" to get rid of the air so be patient.

While your under your motorhome be sure to lube the U-joints and slip joint. They usually need lube sooner than the rest of the chassis.

[efstewart]

Just the info I was looking for, I will be changing the oil and filters hopefully this weekend, just waiting for UPS. Also, I will look online for the fumoto valve. What sight is best for that part?'

[Iron Man]

I would pre-fill the oil filter. It can be done a still be able to manuver it into place.

[PoetryJoe]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm4015 The engine oil filter is on the drivers side of the engine and you have to scoot under the engine to get to it. I use a large strap wrench on a 1/2" drive with an extension to get it off. I used the "vacuum cleaner" mehtod to install a Fumoto valve on the engine, then drained the oil in gallon milk jugs. Your fuel filters are located behind the black cover under the batteries. Remove the cover and you will see a line of filters and I believe the fuel filters are on the right. Be sure to use the new gaskets that come with the new filters. I remove the fuel filter with a filter wrench that fits around them snuggly. I install the filters dry and use the engine prime to purge air from the fuel system. It takes several "primes" to get rid of the air so be patient. While your under your motorhome be sure to lube the U-joints and slip joint. They usually need lube sooner than the rest of the chassis.

Is there a reason that you do not simply prefill the fuel filters prior to putting them on?

Joe

[Route 66]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoetryJoe Is there a reason that you do not simply prefill the fuel filters prior to putting them on? Joe

Yes, it reduces the chance of fuel contamination per Cummins.

[Norm4015]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Route 66 Yes, it reduces the chance of fuel contamination per Cummins.

I agree. I have owned two Cummins engines - a 2000 ISC and a 2005 ISL. Both owners manuals said to install the filters dry and follow the self-priming feature. I attended a Cummins seminar and the engineer said the same thing.

After installing the filers turn the key to ON, but do not attempt to start the engine. After 30 seconds turn the key to OFF and repeat the procedure 6-8 times and it will purge air from the fuel system.

On my ISL I timed the lift pump that primes the fuel system and it runs 23 seconds before shutting off. I found it is best to prime 8-10 times and the engine will start right up.

[tworootless]

Besides two oil filters, a fuel filter, and coolant filter, my Detroit series 60 holds 11 gallons of oil. I've priced it out twice. IMO it's not worth the hassle to find a source to get ride of the used oil and filters, let alone trying to keep clean to save $55.00 Included in this maintenance done at every truck stop; 31 point inspection, lube all Zerk fittings, and an engine oil analysis. $226.00

[rogerrabbit]

I personally found the best way to change the filter was take it to Cummins

[ricere]

I took mine to Cummins a couple of times and the last time they charged me over $530 to only change oil, oil filter, fuel filters, and chassis lube. Too much for that service. Three hundred plus dollars labor for that is too much for me. I can do it myself in about 3 hours. That's over 100 dollars per hour I can earn.

[efstewart]

I am done with my Oil Change on my 2006 DSDP, 400HP ISL, but can't figure out why I only drained about 19 quarts of used oil (including the Oil filter) from a 24 quart engine. Before changing, the dipstick showed normal, so I filled it up with about 19 quarts that includes filling the oil filter. I will check it today to see if it needs more. Any thoughts?

[ricere]

Your 2006 ISL should hold 28 quarts of oil (including filter) according to the specifications. If you only drained 19 quarts, either the dipstick is wrong, or there is a lot of oil still not drained out of the engine. I have been putting in 28 quarts of oil in my engine after a change, but it seems to be a quart or so over full. I believe there are at least 2 to 3 quarts of oil that does not readily drain out of the engine. The fill specification is actually the oil capacity, and the engine has many places or pockets where oil will not be able to be drained. From now on, I will only add about 26 quarts of oil (22 to pan) to keep from overfilling.

[Norm4015]

My 2005 ISL holds 25 quarts including the filter. I had it changed at Spartan and they charged me 25 quarts and it was right on the full mark. Since then I change it myself and I let the oil drain until it quits dripping. I pre-fill the filter and add the rest to the engine and 25 quarts puts it exactly on the full mark.