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Old 02-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #15
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Could not even begin to imagine getting my brake drums on my Motor Coach to 900-1500 degrees Smokin.........

Temperatures indicated are at the lining/drum interface. Temperatures are approximate.)

550F to 650F - Brake resin odor is present
850F - Brakes begin to smoke
1,100F - Brake oxidation occurs at parts of the brake open to air rushing by
1,250F - Drums become cherry red internally
Above 1,250F - Danger of run-away due to excess drum expansion
Source(s):

Carlisle Motion Control Industries
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
Easy, easy ,easy here : Wheel Protector Black Plastic 10 Hole for Alum Wheels | eBay

THIS BLACK PLASTIC PIECE IS USED TO KEEP ALUMINUM WHEELS FROM MAGNETIZING TOGETHER. IT IS THE 10 HOLE TYPE WITH 1 INCH DIAMETER HOLES.
My Coach came from the Spartan factory with these in between the back side of the aluminum outer rim and the front of the inner steel rim. I just bought new ones when I changed out the original tires while they were off.
Funny!!
Aluminum wheels are not magnetic so there is no way then can "magnetize together".
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:43 AM   #17
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Funny!!
Aluminum wheels are not magnetic so there is no way then can "magnetize together".
Glad it humored you, they are referring to the electrolysis process that happens when two dissimilar metals are together, my wheels were tough to get off due to the corrosion around the studs (white crusted powder) and the same thing happens when aluminum is in contact with steel. By magnetizing I believe the "quoted phrase" meant "welded together. By all means ,don't use them just due to my posting.Good luck and happy trails.

Dissimilar metals and alloys have different electrode potentials and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte, one metal acts as anode and the other as cathode. The potential difference between the dissimilar metals is the driving force for the accelerated attack on the anode member(your aluminum wheel) of the galvanic couple. The anode metal dissolves into the electrolyte, and deposition is formed on the cathodic metal.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:18 AM   #18
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I believe the best way to help reduce or eliminate electrolysis is to make sure the steel wheel has a nice coat of paint on the mating surface to the outer aluminum wheel. This usually means that it's a D.I.Y. project as most shops will have a lot of time involved just to clean and paint the inner wheel resulting in a large bill.
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:37 AM   #19
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Glad it humored you, they are referring to the electrolysis process that happens when two dissimilar metals are together, my wheels were tough to get off due to the corrosion around the studs (white crusted powder) and the same thing happens when aluminum is in contact with steel. By magnetizing I believe the "quoted phrase" meant "welded together. By all means ,don't use them just due to my posting.Good luck and happy trails.

Dissimilar metals and alloys have different electrode potentials and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte, one metal acts as anode and the other as cathode. The potential difference between the dissimilar metals is the driving force for the accelerated attack on the anode member(your aluminum wheel) of the galvanic couple. The anode metal dissolves into the electrolyte, and deposition is formed on the cathodic metal.
As a retired engineer I fully realize what happens with dissimilar metals, however that's not what they said!
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:27 PM   #20
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Duplacolor bed liner paint in a spray can, torque the wheels down wile it's still tacky. I do that on any alloy on steel wheel mounting surface. It's a trick I learned from a UPS tractor mechanic.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:07 PM   #21
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Well it's been almost a Year since I first posted about switching over to New Wheels and Tires.

As it happened I was not able to swing the upgrade last year because it turned out that I had Budd style wheels, which turned out to be hard to find and super expensive.

This Year I needed to have the Brakes serviced.

Discovered that My favorite Heavy Duty Mechanic had some ideas on how to convert from those Stud Piloted Wheels to the more common Hub Piloted design.

Turns out that the SP Front Hubs matched a set of HP Aluminum Hubs that were attached to a OTR Kenworth in the Boneyard. Bonus ,even the Bearings were like new, so only required new seals.

Since We were changing Shoes and drums anyway We installed a pair of Steelite Drums in place of the Cast Iron Ones!

Then we discovered that the Rear Hubs were already Hub Piloted ,but were using Stud Pilot Studs. A Simple replacement of those studs gave Me a pair of perfectly good HP Rear Hubs.New shoes and Drums finished it off.

Woo !Woo! Nice New Wheels , Tires , Brakes and away we go!

Anyone want a set of Stainless Steel Wheel Simulators in good shape? 22.5 Inch, You pay the shipping!
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:39 PM   #22
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I could pick them up personally. I'm only an hour away in Nanoose Bay and want to take a look at the government campground there.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:40 PM   #23
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I'll pm you.
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