Ball Joint Problems

[hooverbill]

I have read here and on other forums about some Spartan Chassis having problems with spliting ball joints. Is this an on going problem or something in the past that has been fixed? And, if fixed, is there a date of manufacture when the problems stopped, so we can determine if we'll have problems?

Thanks.

[Mr_D]

The "rubber" covers split, not the ball joints themselves. The splits let grit in and the joint wears out prematurely. Costs a bunch to fix and only certain shops have the tools.
So far ours haven't been a problem as we have a 2004, 14,600# Reyco Granning front axle, it seems to happen more to the 12,000 and 13,200# axles.

[Cat320]

I had this same question and sent an email to Spartan (our coach was manufactured in March 2007).

Here is the reply:

"Your IFS(independent front suspension) on your coach no longer has ball joints. The manufacture has changed the design to accommodate a larger cramp angle. In the process the ball joints were eliminated in the design. "

I have omitted his name and personal information, but an email can be sent by logging on to http://www.spartanchassis.com/

[Cat320]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cat320 I had this same question and sent an email to Spartan (our coach was manufactured in March 2007). Here is the reply: "Your IFS(independent front suspension) on your coach no longer has ball joints. The manufacture has changed the design to accommodate a larger cramp angle. In the process the ball joints were eliminated in the design. " I have omitted his name and personal information, but an email can be sent by logging on to http://www.spartanchassis.com/

For some reason, I cannot edit this post.

The correct date for the manufacture of our MH is March 2008, not 2007.

Sorry if there was any confusion.

[footdoc]

I was concerned about this thread and contacted Spartan for my 06 MM chassis and got this reply....
We have not seen problems with the ball joint boots on newer units such as yours; most of the problems were with chassis manufactured between 1998 and 2002. The issue was the rubber boots covering the ball joints would rot, and unfortunately the entire ball joint needs to be changed out if this happens.

You can inspect the ball joint boots periodically, and if the rubber looks like it is starting to crack, treat them with a product such as WD-40, or anything else that will protect the rubber.

[sucker]

All four of my ball joint boot were deteriated on my 2000 eagle with IFS. The coach drove nice and straight. I tested the ball joints and they seem tight. I just put a bunch of money in the coach and didn't want to have tp spend another 2500 what someone I know just spent. They just had a big price increase on new ball joints.
So, I searched auto part webs sites for split cv joint boots. There are several available. Some are glued together. I fabricated my own. clean ball joints with alcohol. I found some rubber belows and cut them to size. wrap them 1.5 times around. glue them. them wrap wire around the top and bottom to keep them in place. I also drilled a hole in the rubber and put a zerk fitting to put in grease.( before I installed them) I should of put to in each at 180 degrees. but i put lots of grease and move it around, then added more grease. Very happy with having the ball joints clean and greased.

[Iron Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sucker All four of my ball joint boot were deteriated on my 2000 eagle with IFS. The coach drove nice and straight. I tested the ball joints and they seem tight. I just put a bunch of money in the coach and didn't want to have tp spend another 2500 what someone I know just spent. They just had a big price increase on new ball joints. So, I searched auto part webs sites for split cv joint boots. There are several available. Some are glued together. I fabricated my own. clean ball joints with alcohol. I found some rubber belows and cut them to size. wrap them 1.5 times around. glue them. them wrap wire around the top and bottom to keep them in place. I also drilled a hole in the rubber and put a zerk fitting to put in grease.( before I installed them) I should of put to in each at 180 degrees. but i put lots of grease and move it around, then added more grease. Very happy with having the ball joints clean and greased.

Unless the ball joint itself has a zerk fitting the grease will not be able to get into the ball joint, it will stay in the boot, and will not do any good. When you grease the ball joint with a zerk fitting the old grease is forced out into the boot and the old grease is replaced by the new grease. Getting out the old grease and the and grit that was in it and replacing the boot will help.

[GaryKD]

Hi footdoc,
Spartan's answer to you is a bunch of BS. I seriously doubt they would say anything if there was a problem with your coach, unless it is an official recall. Recalls is where they can make a buck. My 05 had the mysterious ball joint boot problem in 07 or 08 (I think). When I used to go to Spartan in 05 through 08, I sat in the customer waiting room and listened to the service writer talk to quite a few owners (over these years) about replacing their ball joints because of the "boot problem". The brands were different but the coaches were all much newer than the years in your post.

My conclusion is they needed work and this was a task most coach owners would not be taking on themselves. Also, most coach owners don't know the underside of their coach well enough to dispute the service writers smooth talking speech.

Because of what they were doing I quit going to Spartan (in Charlotte) in 08 or 09. There are plenty of authorized places to have what I can't do done.

Could the right and left hand at Spartan not know where the other hand is? Maybe the service business has improved so they don't need to do ball joint replacements like doctors prescribe medication for symptoms? Spartan is a manufacturer. Their answer is a standard answer. There is no benefit for them to say anything except what they said. A manufacturer will always state the party line. Notice they told you to check the boots yourself. That is their liability out statement.

If you don't check the ball joints, have it done during the annual maintenance. Before you take it in or at the beginning of service see if the tech will let you get on a creeper and see what the boots look like for yourself.

During my annual maintenance, I clean the boots with a rubber cleaner and coat them with a rubber preservative.

[footdoc]

Gary ...thanks for the heads up!

[capecodbob]

I have been reading all about these boot problems and crawled under my 05 kountry star with less than 30,000 mi and both the drivers are split. Didn't check the pass side . I assume split also.I just had and inspection sticker done and they did not mention any loose ball joints. I did not witness the inspection so am unsure if they checked them.
How will I know when to have them replaced?

I recently replaced the original tires that were cracked.The front ones were showing a little cupping on the edges. It drove fine though.
I put on Hankook tires because the price was much lower.
The only difference that I notice is that the tires don't track as well as the Mechelins. Or is that a factor of worn ball joints.


Also, the tire place must have knocked off the oil fill plug under the hubcap because after about 1000 mi. I noticed oil showing up on my tire like a seal had blown. Futher inspection revealed the missing plug. I duct taped the hole to complete my trip and have left messages at Rayco-Manning and they are ignoring me.

[GaryKD]

Hi capecodbob,
Welcome to iRV2. If the boots are split you don't have much choice but to have them replaced. If you choose an authorized Spartan shop, have them call Spartan. They may pick up some of the expense. That being said there are members who have used replacement boots that fasten around the joint. There are several choices for this repair. Some say it is okay and some say no way. For me, I have no opinion or skill on this point.

Until you make the decision, consider keeping the boot as full of grease as possible. This should help protect the actual joint. Your favorite local auto parts store should carry a hypodermic needle that goes on the end of a grease gun fitting.

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by capecodbob I have been reading all about these boot problems and crawled under my 05 kountry star with less than 30,000 mi and both the drivers are split. Didn't check the pass side . I assume split also.I just had and inspection sticker done and they did not mention any loose ball joints. I did not witness the inspection so am unsure if they checked them. How will I know when to have them replaced? I recently replaced the original tires that were cracked.The front ones were showing a little cupping on the edges. It drove fine though. I put on Hankook tires because the price was much lower. The only difference that I notice is that the tires don't track as well as the Mechelins. Or is that a factor of worn ball joints. Also, the tire place must have knocked off the oil fill plug under the hubcap because after about 1000 mi. I noticed oil showing up on my tire like a seal had blown. Futher inspection revealed the missing plug. I duct taped the hole to complete my trip and have left messages at Rayco-Manning and they are ignoring me.

The plugs are a standard item at truck stops, and the front axle manufacturer is Reyco Granning.
The poor steering could well be the tires. Did you notice it right after the tires were changed or did it come on gradually. If gradually then it's probably the ball joints, if suddenly when the tires were changed then it's probably the tires.
But you do need to get the joints themselves checked for wear. If they're worn then they do need replacing, if not worn and just the boots are shot then you might be able to find or fabricate new covers. That's what I'd do if I could.

[Mr_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iron Man Unless the ball joint itself has a zerk fitting the grease will not be able to get into the ball joint, it will stay in the boot, and will not do any good. When you grease the ball joint with a zerk fitting the old grease is forced out into the boot and the old grease is replaced by the new grease. Getting out the old grease and the and grit that was in it and replacing the boot will help.

Our joints have zerks on them (Reyco Granning 14,600# axle), as did the ones on the original 12,000# axle. I havent seen any with with just a zerk in the rubber cover either.