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Old 11-05-2008, 12:03 PM   #1
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Here are two shots of the rebuilt HALDEX AIR DRYER. I couldn't take any pics during the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly as I was fighting the clock.



Basically, you dump the air bags and tanks completely, disconnect the air lines from the dryer, loosen the coalescing filter with a BIG filter wrench BEFORE you remove the dryer from the frame mounted bracket. You then remove the heater, lower bracket retaining bolts (3), loosen the stainless steel band clamp and wiggle the dryer down to the ground. It looks big but it is light as it is primarily aluminum. The Coalescing filter however IS HEAVY!

When the air dryer is working correctly, it should "pop" any residual air/moisture off when you first turn the key on and then the massive air blast when everything is fully pressurized (don't forget to shut the air tank drain valves first). Hopefully, you should have minimal moisture and no oil in the discharge as that is what the coalescing filter and dessicant cartridge are supposed to clean out or "DRY".

I will be cleaning, checking and/or rebuilding my air compressor shortly as I think it is time...and it may be leaking...which would explain the oily road grime all around it.

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Old 11-05-2008, 12:03 PM   #2
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Here are two shots of the rebuilt HALDEX AIR DRYER. I couldn't take any pics during the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly as I was fighting the clock.



Basically, you dump the air bags and tanks completely, disconnect the air lines from the dryer, loosen the coalescing filter with a BIG filter wrench BEFORE you remove the dryer from the frame mounted bracket. You then remove the heater, lower bracket retaining bolts (3), loosen the stainless steel band clamp and wiggle the dryer down to the ground. It looks big but it is light as it is primarily aluminum. The Coalescing filter however IS HEAVY!

When the air dryer is working correctly, it should "pop" any residual air/moisture off when you first turn the key on and then the massive air blast when everything is fully pressurized (don't forget to shut the air tank drain valves first). Hopefully, you should have minimal moisture and no oil in the discharge as that is what the coalescing filter and dessicant cartridge are supposed to clean out or "DRY".

I will be cleaning, checking and/or rebuilding my air compressor shortly as I think it is time...and it may be leaking...which would explain the oily road grime all around it.

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Old 11-05-2008, 12:03 PM   #3
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Finally, here are some pics of my current "ramp" setup, a engine and bed cover steel support rod (much better than those pesky hydraulic struts I was going to use) and some of the air-brake/emergency brake and air-bag leveling valves and connections. I will soon be making some structural ramps and "cribbing" to get the coach higer into the air (+/1 12") on all wheels for some belly pan replacement.







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Old 07-26-2011, 06:51 AM   #4
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I know this post is old but do you have more info in changing a HALDEX AIR DRYER ? Also looking for pics. I want to change mine on a freightliner XC-R 2008 Forest River Berkshire. Seems a person can do this on there own if careful. Thanks...Ron
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:52 PM   #5
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Here is a link for Haldex PURest Dryer that I installed on my MH. It was not that hard of a job.


http://alpinecoachassociation.com/ch...x%20DQ6050.pdf

Good luck
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:54 AM   #6
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Just changed mine out yesterday and it took all of an hour, mine is the Bendix AD9.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:14 AM   #7
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Remember safety first!

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