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Old 01-18-2019, 10:06 AM   #1
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K2 Lubrication Advice

I am planning to lubricate our Spartan K2 chassis and would like to get advice on diagrams, grease zerk locations, grease guns, and best grease to use. To start this off, here’s what I’ve found:

Diagrams: I have not found a “one source” diagram for lubrication. I have found a thread that states there are 34 lube points. From the Spartan manual the text on periodic lubrication states driveshaft quarterly, steering annually—which is obviously lacks the “34 point” detail. Anyone else find or have something better? (I am fully prepared to climb under the coach on a quest for 34 grease fittings!)

Zerk locations: obviously related to above, but I have not found any pictures, etc. I read one post stating you need to turn the front wheels to access some of the front steering lube points.

Grease guns: given I will only use the grease gun for motorhome lubrication, I’d prefer not to spend too much......but don’t want to be pumping grease either. Here’s what I found on amazon:

Lumax LX-1175 Handyluber 12V Cordless Grease Gun with Single Battery, 7000 Psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0HGP1S..._NuFqCbJEDXDTD

Grease: spartan manual spec is NLGI#2 or equivalent. My quick scan of grease is that most are NLGI#2; some more expensive, lithium based, marine, etc. Lucas seems to be a popular brand. This one gets high ratings on amazon:

Wolf's Head Red Grease - 10/14oz tubes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZYJT0C..._HAFqCbFMMZFM5

My apologies for the long post—I welcome any and all advice.

Gary
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Old 01-18-2019, 01:19 PM   #2
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Let me the "Refining" guy add some info on lubricating greases. Most "multi-purpose" grease sold at Wal-Mart, parts stores, etc. are "lithium soap" based greases (the lithium soap is what thickens the grease). Greases that meet NLGI #2 specifications are typically more expensive as the specifications are stringent on the amount of lithium thickner to use, what anti-corrosion specs to meet, etc. If anyone has ever used Walmart brand multi-purpose grease you have probably noticed that on a hot summer day that grease gets very oily because Walmart uses a bare minimum amount of thickner which is why it does not meet NLGI # 2 specs.


Major oil companies manufacture multi-purpose lithium based grease that meet NLGI #2 specs such as this Valvoline grease from Advanced Auto Parts --> https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...v609/7070010-P NLGI #2 grease is good for chassis lubrication.


The Wolf's Head Grease from Amazon looks like an expensive over-kill for chassis lubrication. This grease would be a good choice for use in high-temperature applications like wheel bearings or other bearings in high temperature service.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:29 PM   #3
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Thanks Mike. I checked the three types of grease at Walmart and all had NLGI#2 spec on the label—but your points are well taken and appreciated. I figure if I’m going to go to this effort, makes no sense to pinch pennies on the grease. That said, I do want to get the right kind.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:40 PM   #4
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Keep us informed

I would like to know or see a diagram,
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Old 01-20-2019, 03:52 PM   #5
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Spartan said they now offrr a lube chart with the new owner manual. Contact them and they will send you one
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:36 AM   #6
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Thanks—I will give them a call. I was able to find a few more diagrams on a Spartan website, but deciphering what chassis they are for is a bit challenging.

I’ve also decided to order the Locknlube pneumatic grease gun rather than a cordless one.

LockNLube Pneumatic Grease Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMVCY34..._4PCrCb1M2KMMZ
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:04 PM   #7
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Lubrication update: first off, the pneumatic grease gun worked great. The “locknlube” attachment worked as advertised, but it is a bit long and was tough to get on a few of the zerks.

Thanks to the many recommenations to turn the wheels for the front end, those fittings were easy. I was able to sit up in the wheel well to get those done.

The rear fittings were tough to get to, especially without lifting the coach. I got the driveline, but will need to go back to the others. All of the lubrications points had grease, so no issues with dry lubrication points.

I never did find a true lubrication diagram, so still looking for one.
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Old 02-10-2019, 03:19 PM   #8
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Gary,
Here are a couple of pdf's on the front axle if you have an IFS front end. Also, you need to lift the steering boot from inside as their are two grease fittings inside the boot on the steering column. If you look close at the rear drive axle and tag, you can pretty much find the others. Don't forget, the driveshaft is lubed every 5000 miles.

Click image for larger version

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Click image for larger version

Name:	Reyco Granning IFS1700S Grease chart.png
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Be safe and use jacks or blocks to support the chassis while under it.
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Old 02-10-2019, 10:45 PM   #9
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I'm too late, but I bought a battery-powered grease gun at harbor Frieght for $60 several years ago that served my usage well. When the battery died I had it rebuilt for $27 at an Interstate battery store.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:48 AM   #10
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Forgot to mention in the previous post, I bought the Lumax LX-1175 Handyluber 12V Cordless Grease Gun. I've had it for a couple of years now and so far it has worked great.
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlwhite View Post
Gary,
Here are a couple of pdf's on the front axle if you have an IFS front end. Also, you need to lift the steering boot from inside as their are two grease fittings inside the boot on the steering column. If you look close at the rear drive axle and tag, you can pretty much find the others. Don't forget, the driveshaft is lubed every 5000 miles.
Thanks rlwhite—the front end was easy as the PDFs you attached were a big help along with turning the wheels. I didn’t notice a boot on the steering column. By inside, do you mean inside the coach below the steering wheel?

While I was able to get the driveshaft and will stay on it every 5K miles, I have not yet found the other zerks in the rear. Just too cramped under there at ride height (didnt want to use the hydraulic lifts without jack stands). I will get some jack stands when we get settled in a couple of months.

I’ve searched the Internet for a diagram of the drive and TAG axles, but no luck. If anyone has found one, please share. I’m not a fan of the “find and lube” technique as you’re sure to miss a few.

Gary
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
I'm too late, but I bought a battery-powered grease gun at harbor Frieght for $60 several years ago that served my usage well. When the battery died I had it rebuilt for $27 at an Interstate battery store.
Thanks Ray—as I already have an air compressor, the locknlube pneumatic grease gun made sense. It worked out great and we’ll see how it does over time. That the locknlube coupler locks on the zerk is a really nice feature, but I believe you can add it to any grease gun.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeslieGary View Post
Thanks rlwhite—the front end was easy as the PDFs you attached were a big help along with turning the wheels. I didn’t notice a boot on the steering column. By inside, do you mean inside the coach below the steering wheel?

While I was able to get the driveshaft and will stay on it every 5K miles, I have not yet found the other zerks in the rear. Just too cramped under there at ride height (didnt want to use the hydraulic lifts without jack stands). I will get some jack stands when we get settled in a couple of months.

I’ve searched the Internet for a diagram of the drive and TAG axles, but no luck. If anyone has found one, please share. I’m not a fan of the “find and lube” technique as you’re sure to miss a few.

Gary
The boot is inside the coach at the base of the steering column. I believe there was like six or eight screws to remove, then lift the boot. There are 2 turnbuckles with fittings.
Also the PDF's don't show it but there are grease fittings on the steering control arm in a few places you will need to look for. I'll look at the manual and see if I can find a diagram and highlight it for you.
I built some ramps by gluing and screwing together 2x6's on end then cutting a slope on one end to drive the bus up on. Gives me some extra room under the coach. They are heavy though.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlwhite View Post
The boot is inside the coach at the base of the steering column. I believe there was like six or eight screws to remove, then lift the boot. There are 2 turnbuckles with fittings.
Also the PDF's don't show it but there are grease fittings on the steering control arm in a few places you will need to look for. I'll look at the manual and see if I can find a diagram and highlight it for you.
I built some ramps by gluing and screwing together 2x6's on end then cutting a slope on one end to drive the bus up on. Gives me some extra room under the coach. They are heavy though.
Rob—thanks very much for sharing this. I’ll look for the boot and recheck the steering control arm.

Gary
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