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Pictures of a Spartan 10k hitch?
Old 07-21-2009, 08:59 PM   #1
marka is offline
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Howdy,

We're purchasing a 38 foot '99 Newmar Dutch Star on a Spartan chassis w/Cummins ISC motor. The hitch on the unit is rated at 5k lbs (made by Putnam). GCWR is 10k above GVWR however. On the phone, Spartan's CSR said a 10k lb hitch could be installed with no problems, and recommended visiting any hitch shop.

I've got a welder and am comfortable fabricating... Does anyone have any pictures of a 10k hitch on a Spartan chassis they'd want to share? I'm just looking for some ideas on the best way to reinforce the existing hitch. I'd honestly rather purchase a 10k hitch ready to go (and with a sticker that says so!), but I've not been able to find one referenced anywhere online.

Thanks for any pointers, and particularly any pictures of a 10k hitch!

Mark

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Old 07-21-2009, 11:29 PM   #2
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I don't have any pics of mine, and pretty dark here now. As I recall, the 10k hitch on my Spartan chassis has a "Valley" label on it. Don't know if it was installed by Spartan or by Winnebago, but I would suspect Winnebago was the one. I can look tomorrow in the daylight if you need more info.

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Old 07-22-2009, 09:17 AM   #3
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Howdy,

Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I don't have any pics of mine, and pretty dark here now. As I recall, the 10k hitch on my Spartan chassis has a "Valley" label on it. Don't know if it was installed by Spartan or by Winnebago, but I would suspect Winnebago was the one. I can look tomorrow in the daylight if you need more info.
If you wouldn't mind, that would be awesome. Particularly if there's a Valley part #, but I'd also be interested in some pictures to see how they braced it.

Thanks!

Mark
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marka View Post
Howdy,

We're purchasing a 38 foot '99 Newmar Dutch Star on a Spartan chassis w/Cummins ISC motor. The hitch on the unit is rated at 5k lbs (made by Putnam). GCWR is 10k above GVWR however. On the phone, Spartan's CSR said a 10k lb hitch could be installed with no problems, and recommended visiting any hitch shop.

I've got a welder and am comfortable fabricating... Does anyone have any pictures of a 10k hitch on a Spartan chassis they'd want to share? I'm just looking for some ideas on the best way to reinforce the existing hitch. I'd honestly rather purchase a 10k hitch ready to go (and with a sticker that says so!), but I've not been able to find one referenced anywhere online.

Thanks for any pointers, and particularly any pictures of a 10k hitch!

Mark

Why not keep it simple and less work for you by having the dealer do the hitch as part of the deal?
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:42 AM   #5
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Howdy,

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Originally Posted by JC2 View Post
Why not keep it simple and less work for you by having the dealer do the hitch as part of the deal?
Dealer didn't want to do it. Not sure if its a liability thing or a saving me money thing or a doesn't want the hassle thing.

I imagine if I pushed them they would, but with the deal done I'd just as soon not rock the boat.

Plus if it ends up being a fab thing, that's just about free for me to do, assuming I can figure out a design / idea that I like.

Mark
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
that would be awesome. Particularly if there's a Valley part #, but I'd also be interested in some pictures to see how they braced it.
Ok, I attempted some pics though the area is tight with air bags dumped in RV park mode! The pics are in the Photos, Class A, recent photos section. That should be at http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2 The hitch does have a Valley Industries label, barely visible between the hitch and rear fiberglass, but no number that I could see. The braces on each end are pretty massive, welded to the frame rail on each side. The braces are not flat, but are almost "C" shaped on the lower portion where the hitch ends bolt into the inside of the flat portion of the "C". The "C" shape no doubt gives them greater strength than a flat piece of metal would have. All the pictures are from the driver's side as the exhaust pipe blocks view to the outside of the bracket on the passenger side. Hope the pics are at least a little helpful!
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:03 PM   #7
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Howdy,

That does help, thanks!

I'll compare that to what I've got and see what differences there are to see.

Mark
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:17 PM   #8
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Mark,

Here are some of mine (in no particular order). I have a Spartan Alpine GT chassis with the "factory" 10,000# hitch. I have modified mine as it would drag. I added two pieces of 1/4" wall seamless 2" drawbar tubing sandwiched to a piece of 1/4" wall seamless 2-1/2" receiver tubing, welded a piece of 1/4" thich 2"x2" angle and re-welded some of the factory welds for better penetration and strength. This is now a "true" 10,000# hitch.

The factory uses 3/16" 2"x2" or 1-1/2"x1-1/2" tubing to build a "dropped frame" from the compartment frame above and ties everything into the frame rails and the radiator and CAC core support so the assembly is rigid. They also add a bunch of triangulated braces out of 3/16" plate so overall, they get a B+ in my book for design "intent" but with a "C+" for execution. Here are the pics.









They are image clickable thumbnails so select each one for a larger image.

Oh yeah, a 10,000# drawbar is generally solid steel bar and not tubing plus you should use a 2-5/16" rated ball (I think 1-1/8" dia. shank) for the application and a the drawbar is supposed to be a weight distributing hitch/drawbar combination as a 10,000# trailer probably has at least a 1,000# tongue weight which you should try to get back to around 500# with weight positioning in/on the trailer.

Unless I am mistaken on the above, if you are a very good welder, it is up to you if you want to try and modify your hitch (beef it up as they say). I have seen "professional" installations that looked like poo poo and that I wouldn't trust to hold our bike carrier.

YMMV of course.

Ken
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:09 PM   #9
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Howdy,

Thanks for the pictures! They give me some ideas for sure.We pickup the RV on Friday, so I'll be able to check out what's there a little more closely then. I looked at it when we were working out the deal, but not closely enough to compare and contrast the way it creates a dropped frame for the receiver compared to yours. Seems like that's where the strength is (or isn't).I'm hoping I can reinforce that frame and then use some type of standard class IV or V receiver of an appropriate width, but we'll see.Thanks again!

Mark

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