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Old 10-22-2013, 10:00 AM   #15
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The brake can has been replaced and waiting for parts for ABS issue. A third problem I have noticed is that the gauges never reach 125 psi. The front tops out around 118 psi and the rear around 110. I never hear the over-pressure valve kick out. This could imply additional leaks, or could it be that the compressor cannot produce 125 psi?

Any compressor experience out there? Thanks.
Was the audible leak up front resolved with the can replacement? Not ever hitting the pop-off pressure would be disconcerting to me, keep digging here.

Chris
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #16
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When was the last time you changed (or had someone change) your air dryer desiccant filter?? If it's been over 2 or 3 years it probably needs changing. And Yes it will cause the Air System not to come up to normal pressure. Also, when did you last purge your Air Tanks? They should either have lanyards or automatic moisture ejectors.
As someone else commented, how many DP owners know what or where a desiccant filter is? Thanks for the tip.

I believe the moisture ejectors on the AC Spartan chassis are automatic. How do you verify that they are working?

Some similar issues just for reference:
400 ISL Air Compressor

It is still in the shop waiting for the ABS. Hopefully they have the system fully fixed when I see it next. My concern is that they focus on symptoms instead of overall problems, so I am preparing for the next step.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:10 PM   #17
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Can someone offer a ballpark figure for what it would cost to replace/rebuild/repair the compressor on a Cummins 330? I am guessing that this would be the most expensive possible cause of the problem.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:18 PM   #18
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It may well be the air governor needs to be adjusted.
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:20 AM   #19
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The price of the compressor Depends on your coach and engine. I have a Cummins 400 ISL engine, Spartan Chassis and the coach is a Travel Supreme. My compressor if ordered from Cummins is $1,200.00. Spartan gets the engine From Cummins with the Compressor already installed not as stated in the link provided by Twelve Volt, which was very interesting.

You can get all the repair info from Cummins if you have the Engine Serial Number (ESN). The ESN can be found on the engine data plate. Once you have that, call Cummins and give them the ESN and they can send you to the Internet page which contains the manual.

Spartan can also provide you with the Air and Brake system schematics (you need both) for the equipment they put in. All you need to give them is the last 8 characters of your VIN.

Another thing i have found out from Spartan. They ALWAYS mount the Air Dryer (with the desiccant filter) on the Frame Rail on the passenger side just behind the rear wheels and te Governor is mounted about 6 to 8 inches behind the Dryer, also on the frame rail. The Governor is about $53.00 for my unit from Spartan.

I have put together an Air System Diagram for my coach (a 2003 Travel Supreme 40DS02 on a Spartan MM chassis with the Cummins ISL 400). I have listed almost all the parts, part numbers and prices for the Air System on MY Coach. If you think it would help, I would be happy to send it to anyone that wants it. I did this diagram when troubleshooting my air system and spent a lot of time under the coach tracing connections.

Drew
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:45 AM   #20
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I believe the moisture ejectors on the AC Spartan chassis are automatic. How do you verify that they are working?
My air tanks (Spartan Liberty) have manual lanyard pulls in front of the passenger steering tire that I yank occasionally. Look below the tanks as I pull them to see if there is any moisture present. There never has been. I also recently replaced my Meritor/Wabasco air filter and dessicant cartridge and will likely replace that every 24 months. The only thing automatic is my pressure regulator "popping" at 125 PSI.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #21
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(quote)I believe the moisture ejectors on the AC Spartan chassis are automatic. How do you verify that they are working?(quote)

When my moisture ejectors activate there is a rapid fire discharge of air (very fast pops). This routine will repeat several times before ceasing.

If you have your window down, you will hear them!
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:49 PM   #22
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Spartan says to use the manual drains monthly even though the automatic drains function properly.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:03 PM   #23
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As someone else commented, how many DP owners know what or where a desiccant filter is? Thanks for the tip.

I believe the moisture ejectors on the AC Spartan chassis are automatic. How do you verify that they are working?
I change mine again last month.
And yes, they are automatic.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:53 AM   #24
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Thanks to everyone! We are on the road in our new-to-us American Dream.

The basic ABS and hissing brake issues were repaired, but as expected, the more subtle issue of slow leaks was not corrected. I will keep you and future owners updated as I trace the problem.

Installing the DQ6026 air dryer kit was easier than expected ($144 from NAPA since I didn't have time to wait for Amazon delivery). From other posts and the kit's instruction sheet I thought I would have to remove the dryer from its mount. It appears heavy to manage in a confined space. Fortunately, this was not necessary as explained below.

1) I was able to accomplish the first half of the installation by standing beside the coach and reaching in the compartment door. Make sure the exhaust system is cold, or perhaps slightly warm on a cold day. Use a strap wrench ($5 at Harbor Freight, just don't expect to will it to your grandkids) to loosen the big black desiccant can on top of the dryer. Spin it off and discard. Use a pair of pliers to grab one of the four plastic fins of the second (coalescing) filter and pull it out. There is just an O-ring holding it in.

2) Clean up any water and oil on the surfaces. Put the new O-ring on the new second filter, apply a coating of the supplied grease, and push it in place. Make sure it is seated deep enough as explained in the instructions. Apply grease to the rubber ring and the threads of the large desiccant cartridge and spin it on to hand tight. The top half is done.

3) Replacing the relief valve was the biggest challenge. The dryer is held by its mount, which in turn is bolted to the chassis. Similar to the mount of a wall fire extinguisher, but upside down. The body of the dryer rests on a small ledge that supports its weight. A bolt goes through the ledge up into the cast body of the dryer. A large hose clamp goes around the body of the dryer, holding it to the mount. There are two possible ways the dryer can be attached to the mount. One is not a problem. The other (my case) means that the relief valve is pointed toward the mounting bracket and cannot be removed in that position. Changing the relief valve is just like changing a spark plug.

I found that by removing the bolt from the bottom and loosening the hose clamp to the point that the screw was about to come off, I was able to coax the dryer to rotate about 20 degrees in its mount. The relief valve was now in a position to be removed. An open ended wrench was not adequate to do the job as it tried to strip the nut. Getting a closed end wrench around the relief valve did the trick.
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:12 AM   #25
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Twelve Volt,

Glad to hear you have a handle on your problem.
After you changed the Desiccant Filter, was there a change in the Air Pressure on the Gauges? Also, does your Governor now give you the Purge Blast??
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:03 PM   #26
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I would like to believe that after the cost and effort of installing the DQ6026 kit there would be some marked improvement. Although the parts definitely needed replacing, the before and after time-to-charge figures are essentially identical. The rear gauge still lags the front by 20 psi. The max pressure pop occurs as expected.

With the airbags empty, from engine start to overpressure pop (120 psi) takes just over 5 minutes at idle. Normal?

Someone mentioned that the governor is mounted on the same frame rail as the dryer. I do not see anything else on the rail. Where is the governor?

If I stop at the end of the day and do not dump the airbags, then by morning the front bags are flat, but not the rear. Normal, or part of the problem?

I have now driven about 700 miles and have not had concerns with the safety of the brakes, but believe there are slow leaks in the air system. Planning to stop in at Fleetwood / American Coach.
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:23 PM   #27
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Twelve Volt,
That was me that said that Spartan mounts the Governor on the same Frame Rail as the Air Dryer. That is what Spartan told me. The only other possibility that I can think of is that the Governor could be mounted on the Compressor. The Governor is a 2 inch diameter cylinder shaped part with a plastic cap on the bottom. You should be able to find it by tracing the Small control line (a 6mm Air line) from the Air Dryer right to the Governor.

When you say it takes 5 minutes at idle. What RPM are you idling at?

Your symptoms are now starting to sound a lot like mine.
My Problem turned out to be a "Pin Hole" in the Steel Braided Air Line between the Compressor and the Air Dryer. The Pin Hole was about a foot from the Connection at the Compressor end. The Steel Braid had chaffed against the inside of the Frame Rail and you could feel the chaffed spot. The only way for me to get to this Air Line was to go through the Access Panel in the floor of the Bedroom Closet. It was relatively easy to replace, just took a lot of time because the Cable is about 8 feet long and has a couple of bends. You might want to Check this Next.
Stopping in at American Coach would not be a bad thing, especially if the Steel Braided Air Line is the culprit.
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