Rear ride height valve

[RicksDP]

Just was under the MH and heard some leaking coming from rear area, I put the jacks down to take a look and found a crack where a threaded plug is on the rear ride height valve. I remember seeing someone here talking about replacing the valve and had a cost and where to get one.
Any help?
TIA, Rick

[RicksDP]

Just was under the MH and heard some leaking coming from rear area, I put the jacks down to take a look and found a crack where a threaded plug is on the rear ride height valve. I remember seeing someone here talking about replacing the valve and had a cost and where to get one.
Any help?
TIA, Rick

[tom wilson]

my rear ride height valve cracked where thr air line is threaded into the valve. colton truck garage replaced it for $220.00. he was careful to get the correct height set so the driveshaft would be in a straight line diff to trans. colton calif. frontage road by I-10. 2 years later the left front valve cracked in the same manner. defective manufacturing process in my opinion.

[quikduk]

I replaced all three of mine with newer versions. The ones used from '97-'01 tended to have the fittings threaded into the phenolic plastic. The new ones thread into a swivleable aluminum casting on the ends of the valve...or the next model uses push-loc connectors...but might require a lengthening or replacement of the air lines. NBD really. The correct ride height adjustment is critical however.

Either part runs about $95-$105 + tax so $220 installe and adjusted is o.k. considering the going RV labor rate is $120/hr.

BTW, I wish I made $120/hr...

Here is a link to the PTC type...which replaces the other types now as it can be mounted and plumbed for both vertical and horizontal applications without the need for the adapter bracketry.

http://www.ridewellcorp.com/air.shtml

...or here...

http://www.anythingtruck.com/M...duct_Code=270-E12525

[RicksDP]

Thanks for the help guys, I might try to takle this myself after the holiday trip up north. I dump the air when stopped anyway.
Rick

[quikduk]

It is fairly easy...really. You will need to get the coach up a bit on 4x6's and chock the front wheels.

You should be able to change out the valve easily but dump the bags first. I also drop the leveling jacks for a bit more stability.

On our coach, the rear ride height valve is in front of the rear differential and acts for both rear bags. Once you have it changed out, air up the system fully and then get back under and check for leaks with a cup of soapy water and a basting brush. Then all you have to do is adjust the ride height.

BTW, after I changed out the rear valve, I was able to hear the fronts leaking...faintly...so I changed them out too. They are a bit more of a PITA to get levelled side-to-side.

Also, your Mountain Master chassis has different ride height specs than my Alpine-GT chassis.

[RBAJJK]

Hey All,

May be a silly question, but here goes. I have a 1996 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser w/Spartan Alpine Chassis. I have the front dump switch on the dashboard, and know that it dumps all air when activated. The issue is when this switch is not activated, if I turn off the engine the rear will come down and the front stays up. Does this indicate a rear leak, or is this normal? The coach rides great and level when aired-up on the road. But if I stop for fuel, once full I have to idle for a couple of minutes so the back comes up especially with my bike rack and toad (they don't like sharp turns together if not fully aired - one will touch the other).

Any way for me to test for a leak?

Thanks as always.

Brian.

[quikduk]

You have a major leak in the rear somewhere.

I thought I delved into this somewhere else but it, along with my sanity, escapes me at the present...

It could be one or multiple items such as:

1. air spring/bag leveling valve
2. air bag(s)
3. air bag pressure relief
4. air dryer
5. air system lines
6. emergency brake air distribution manifold
7. service brake air distribution manifold