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Old 04-26-2017, 04:38 AM   #1
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Shocks Again

I am having difficulty locating front shocks for my 2003 National Tradewinds. I have the, now out of production IFS1050 Reyco/Granning front end. My shop has ordered the incorrect shocks twice now and Spartan seems to be no help based on my previous two conversations with them. The Spartan rep on my call suggested that I look for an old blog which I have been doing for a couple weeks now. I called Koni and they asked my to measure the shock length but my coach has been in the shop now for over a week while they try to figure out what front shocks to order. I might also add that the shop did put on front Bilstiens which I blew the seals in two hundred miles.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:51 AM   #2
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When I put Konis on my Spartan 1260 there was not enough clearance for the top shield. I cut the top shield off and install a shock boot over it to keep dirt off. Other have done this also to get shock to fit.
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Old 10-24-2017, 03:07 PM   #3
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I worked with Michigan Truck and Spring and was having problems until a different mechanic suggested that my chassis was probably a model year older than my motor home manufacturing year. Everything matched after that revelation.
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Old 10-24-2017, 05:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee1up2day View Post
I am having difficulty locating front shocks for my 2003 National Tradewinds. I have the, now out of production IFS1050 Reyco/Granning front end. My shop has ordered the incorrect shocks twice now and Spartan seems to be no help based on my previous two conversations with them. The Spartan rep on my call suggested that I look for an old blog which I have been doing for a couple weeks now. I called Koni and they asked my to measure the shock length but my coach has been in the shop now for over a week while they try to figure out what front shocks to order. I might also add that the shop did put on front Bilstiens which I blew the seals in two hundred miles.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks
Sounds like they installed the wrong Bilstein shocks, probably too small and overheated blowing seal. I have the Reyco IFS and got replacement shocks here:
http://m.shockwarehouse.com/index.cf...&sel_year=2003

They list both Bilstein and Koni, I bought the Bilsteins....no issues

EDIT just seen this is a older thread, hopefully the OP got it sorted out....
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:49 AM   #5
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I have a 2002 model Mountain Master GT chassis under my 2003 coach. A couple years ago I ordered from Konirv. My notes say 2 ea #902815 and 2ea #88051009 for my Spartan/Granning IFS1200. I can't tell you off hand which were the front. I found those numbers on the Konirv website when I ordered.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:42 PM   #6
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Crawl underneath and copy down the model and serial number of your Reyco-Granning IFS. With that information Spartan can identify your shocks brand and stock number. I emailed Spartan, gave model and serial #. Spartan replied with their stock# for my IFS1200 steering stabilizer shocks and price, within 2 days. Email address: todd.lahr@spartanmotors.com OFFICE800.722.3025EXT 3228
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Old 11-11-2017, 06:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
I have a 2002 model Mountain Master GT chassis under my 2003 coach. A couple years ago I ordered from Konirv. My notes say 2 ea #902815 and 2ea #88051009 for my Spartan/Granning IFS1200. I can't tell you off hand which were the front. I found those numbers on the Konirv website when I ordered.
I just orders new Koni shocks for my Spartan IFS 1200. #902815 are the short front shocks. I ordered directly from Koni in Ky. They had stock of both front and rear shocks. Price was better than anywhere else. They shipped in two days by ground courier. I could not locate a dealer close by and the ones at Camping World were $45 more each. I cannot wait to install and feel the difference in the ride. Mine are done and probably well past their live cycle.
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:29 PM   #8
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I just orders new Koni shocks for my Spartan IFS 1200. #902815 are the short front shocks. I ordered directly from Koni in Ky. They had stock of both front and rear shocks. Price was better than anywhere else. They shipped in two days by ground courier. I could not locate a dealer close by and the ones at Camping World were $45 more each. I cannot wait to install and feel the difference in the ride. Mine are done and probably well past their live cycle.
I ordered new Bilstiens/OEM for my Granning IFS1200; only then did I read the Granning manual. You must remove a tie rod end (both sides) in order to remove the bottom of the shock. The manual says to NOT use a pickle fork, but rather a puller. The top bolt has a nut on the back, which is down inside the top A-frame. I could not access that either.
I now have an appt with a HDT shop for shock replacement. I bought the Bilstiens for $88 ea. from eshocks.com
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:30 AM   #9
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I just replaced mine in July myself. Also with the OEM shocks.
Manual may say both sides, but only one needs to drop to get bottom shock boot out.
All tie rod / ball joint mfg will say not to hit the threaded end. And not to use a pickle fork so not to damage rubber boot.

I loosened the nut, hit the side of the spindle with a small Sledge hammer 4/5 times and it fell right out.

Also, many auto parts store will rent a puller for cheap/free.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:07 AM   #10
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When I replaced mine about May of this year, I did essentially as machwrench did. jolting the joint in some manner should work. I used the classic, but probably not hugely desirable, method of rethreading the nut backward to get a smooth surface and carefully "tapping" the tie rod. Just stay away from anything that will damage the rubber boots.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:46 AM   #11
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I have the 2003 National Tradewinds LTC 7374 which has a 2002 Freightliner XC Chassis With the IES-112-X65 front axle. I have new Bilstien shocks on order with Michigan Truck and Spring but there not being produced till mid December!
F4-BE5-6091-M0 BSNAK2257 FREIGHTLINER IFS FRT 24-225007
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
I just replaced mine in July myself. Also with the OEM shocks.
Manual may say both sides, but only one needs to drop to get bottom shock boot out.
All tie rod / ball joint mfg will say not to hit the threaded end. And not to use a pickle fork so not to damage rubber boot.

I loosened the nut, hit the side of the spindle with a small Sledge hammer 4/5 times and it fell right out.

Also, many auto parts store will rent a puller for cheap/free.
How did you access the nut for the top shock bolt? I can only see mine with a mirror and flashlight.
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:44 AM   #13
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I think mackwrench was a contortionist and did it from below.

I used a torque multiplier and removed each front wheel. (I was also replacing the front airbags at the same time, but I later did it just this same way as I wanted to recheck a top bolt that i thought was rattling)
I used the front hydraulic leveler to get the tire about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the ground
(I put jacks/stands underneath the frame for safety and did only one side at a time)
I loosened the lug nuts -- the pried the wheel off the wheel studs.
If you do it right you will never had to lift the tire off the ground at all -- either when removing or replacing the tire. you just rock it back and forth a bit to get a stud through enough to start an upper lug nut. From there you can pull it closer with that lug nut in order to get the rest on them on.

It was not as difficult physically as it sounds. It was more work just cranking the torque multiplier. My lug nuts are on plenty tight, probably more than required. -- if you are super critical have them checked later, but in my experience with two truck tire places, they do not really torque them to a number anyway -- they just get the old air gun going and make them tight.
Mine are tight, I am not worried at all.

thx Dale
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Old 11-13-2017, 12:50 PM   #14
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That's correct. I did it from under coach, my leveling Jack's are doa, I do have wood Ramps, so I had front end up about 8", turned the wheel all the way to right (do do left side) take a combination wrench to hold nut, and ziped out bolt.
Easy....
Here's a pic before I started.Click image for larger version

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FWIW, I also replaced air bags w/o removing tire/wheel.
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