FR3

[Cowboy Bob]

Wire your pigtail to your controller or in my case to the pigtail on the controller. Be sure your wire connections are correct, if you mess this up you will be buying a new controller in some cases. Mine is a Tekonsha Primus IQ, the red wires do not connect to each other in my case, again double and triple check the wiring diagram for your controller yours may be different. In my case blue went to blue, white to white, green chassis to red controller and red chassis to black on the controller. The brown on the chassis feed is "illumination", I taped it off unused but it will likely go hot 12v when the lights are on, don't leave it bare.
Here's what the harness looks like completed:

[Cowboy Bob]

I mounted the controller on the left where it is in reach to adjust and more importantly to manually activate the brakes to stop a sway or fishtail.

There is a little tab near the bottom of the plastic knee panel, I zip tied the harness there and coiled the extra and zip tied the coil of wire. Once plugged in the coil of wire is safely out of harms way.

[Cowboy Bob]

Here is what it looks like completed, also you will see where I put the Scanguage at the base of the instrument cluster

[Cowboy Bob]

Hopefully this helps demystify the process. Next up, extending the bed support for the early affected units, hopefully will get that done and post pics later today!

Happy camping and wrenching!

[TOE]

Nice write up CB, we just picked up our R&R trailer last week- I've already had to strengthen the self tapping screws (that weren't fully penetrated from the factory) on the trailer brake lights & while we do have a trailer breakaway I'm thinking this will be a good idea as well- although with our winter trip out west fast approaching I'll probly opt to have it professionally installed.

I also need to have the trailer brake light connection lengthened because it's binding on sharp left turns & I'm worried I'll rip it out & be left in the dark in padooka county BFE.

We haven't winterized, it's plugged in and furnace is set to 60 to keep things sloshing until we leave in a few weeks. Just under 1,000 miles and nothing but happy with the rig so far- the real moment of truth will be over the next 3 months as 4 of us live in it continuously until we come back in late winter.

I wish we could post pics here without having to host them elsewhere first, I'd gladly pay for that convenience, but I suppose I'm just impatient - I start my blog site in May (when my URL goes live)

I'm currently building a circular GoPro rail that will navigate a full 360 (one revolution every ten minutes) for long beautiful drives through the National Parks - the video will be time lapse - you've seen sky shots from a rail that moves slowly across a scene and the clouds move fast? Well, this is the same idea, mounted in a continuous circle ... As I'm driving through a NP the video will constantly change direction to give a double spherical dose of motion & time, I'm very excited to see the results I'm anticipating

[rivraton]

Originally Posted by TOE

I wish we could post pics here without having to host them elsewhere first, I'd gladly pay for that convenience, but I suppose I'm just impatient - I start my blog site in May (when my URL goes live)

You can attach files directly from your computer:

Attach Files
Valid file extensions: 3gp 3gp2 asf aiff avi mp4 mov mpeg mpg wmv ogg bmp doc gif jpe jpeg jpg pdf png psd txt

Look under "Additional Options"
at the bottom of the reply page...

[z3406]

Temps here in KY are now below freezing and I'm spending my first winter with an RV. I have an outlet outside I converted to an RV receptacle that is a 20 amp circuit. The 20amps will run the Ac, heat strip and allow the battery controller to keep the batteries charged. I've drained the water tank, water heater and blown out the water likes with compressed air. The inside drain traps have RV anti freeze in them. I am keeping fluid in the grey and black water tanks and using the built in tank heaters to protect them. I have the AC heat strip set at 50 degrees and that's keeping the inside warm enough to keep things from freezing. The temp was in the hi 20's last nite and the heat strip kept the interior pretty close to the thermostat setting. The heat strip does not heat the basement like the furnace does so that why I am using the tank heaters. The tank heaters are 12v and are supposed to kick on when the temp of the water in the tank reached 44 degrees and trips off when it hits 60 something. I have treated the undercarriage with the mouse proof coating and we'll see how effective that will be. The tires have covers on them made by ADCO. I'm fortunate I have an adequate AC current source for the RV it's making my winterizing a lot easier. The 20 amp outlet allows me to maintain the batteries and the interior temperature ( Air Conditioner or Heat Strip) but it isn't enough to use any thing else other than an occasional TV.

[TOE]

I'm on my phone, I don't have any extra photo options that I can see :(

[Fiveoh108]

I saw the new shower enclosures for the 2015 and decided I needed one! I never liked the white curtain anyway. After tracking down a part number, I placed my order through shower enclosures of america, the company FR used on the 2015. With tax and shipping, the whole enclosure was $145 out the door! Hope you like it. At the end is a photo of my receipt shower the part number and company name

Putting the bottom track on the curb and lining up the side rails. I used two sided tape to hold the bottom track on. Notice they start out almost flush with the sides at the bottom and angle in towards the top. This is how the 2015 FR3 did it and you will see it is needed to clear the opening of the bathroom door.





Attaching the top track and brackets



Make sure to pre-drill the screws into the metal too track. The walls you can just screw straight in to


Mount the door handle into the tracks


Attach the rubber liner


Then you're in business. It has magnets that hold it open and closed. It rolls very smoothly. The shower feels much bigger one of my favorite mods yet. Don't forget to clear caulk around the inside!




Mike Thomas

[Fiveoh108]

Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15

Im going to separate this out into two posts, for obvious reasons...



1. I had contacted my dealer to have the water tank repair done. Ive been waiting almost 6 weeks for my appointment, which is the first of October because Im tired of having my fresh tank siphon itself dry. This is more my frustration until...



2. We took the RV to Ocean Lakes this weekend. I had previously filled the propane tank before Nationals because it was at 1/2 and I had anticipated not having a power tap and running the fridge on propane. We came back from Ocean Lakes with an empty propane tank because the regulator is VISIBLY venting propane. Called the dealer, can this be tackled on my upcoming service appointment? NOPE.



I fully intend to call Forest River tomorrow. I know part of this is on the dealer, but waiting almost 8 weeks for a service appointment and their refusal to not replace a $25 part leaving me without heat, hot water, and a fridge at my next two races in October is absolutely unacceptable.

Had to have my propane regulator replaced as well. It was leaking pretty good.

[Online_17]

Shower door install here also;

http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210258

[Cowboy Bob]

Bed extension.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ad.php?t=69597

Followed this post to do mine.........

[socalrcer]

Originally Posted by Cowboy Bob

Bed extension.
Bed Frame Extension - Forest River Forums

Followed this post to do mine.........

Attachment 80146Attachment 80147

Sorry guys, haven't logged in for a while. I like your idea on the extension. I was going to to go half and half length wise. This looks like it will have less flex.

[Cowboy Bob]

Oh it's built plenty sturdy! Anyone else have a bed that runs downhill towards the foot of the bed? It's very minor but I don't think it's my imagination. I need to put a level on it.