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Old 07-04-2014, 04:12 PM   #1
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FR3 Mods and Projects

Post em if you got em....
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Old 07-04-2014, 04:29 PM   #2
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Here is my shower door project.

Thanks to Forest River, I received my new shower door kit and installed, finally replacing the old shower curtain and well-used splash guards. These are the same doors in the 2015 models.

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Install was quite easy despite the foggy instructions. First remove your splash guards if you had them and the screw on the bottom of each side of the shower enclosure. ( won't fit right with the screws left in.

Good news, I didn't have to cut any pieces. All fit perfectly. Attach bottom piece with double sided tape to hold first then attach side pieces.

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Important: don't do what I did....

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Do a door close check first. I installed side rails and the bathroom door wouldn't reach the latch. Door hit the top rail. So I backed it out and positioned it in further. Not a big deal but have 3 new screw holes., errrr

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The rest of the hardware went together quite easy as per included instructions.

The finished look is a cleaner appearance. The old curtain always reminded me if a cheaply after thought that you'd find in a travel trailer.

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Much better!
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:30 PM   #3
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Wardrobe re-do

I will try to post my pics by the end of the week but I finished my wardrobe re-do tonight. Whew! Temps in high 80's here and plugged into regular outlet in garage (and not running the generator) I have the choice of running the AC or having lights and power tools:P

Anyway, on closer examination of closet I discovered that NONE of the walls are reinforced and no studs to speak of that I could find, so I had to find a way to be able to hang something in 1/8 inch thick Luan backed with styrofoam. Someone on the Forest River design team should be flogged but right now I am too tired. I will have to settle for thinking rude things about them.

I knew I was going to need to reinforce the wall but getting a sheet of plywood through those narrow doorways with room to maneuver was not going to happen. I opted instead to use strips of 1X4 pine furring (stained to match!) mounted to the wall like this: TT. I removed the closet trim pieces first and set them aside because I wanted my furring to rest on the bottom of the closet for added support, then I fastened the furring strips to the wall with hollow wall drive anchors and a bead of Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive, which is designed to tolerate extremes of heat and cold.

I bought another rail mount closet kit from ELFA in Platinum. I like the rail mounts because they distribute the weight back into the wall. The kit contained the rail (horizontal track), two standards (vertical bars that hang from the track), and a shelf with a closet rod below it. I mounted the top rail overtop of the horizontal furring, with each of the standards over a vertical furring strip, and then assembled my shelf and closet rod. Voila! Solid as anything you could hope for and well supported. I then reattached my trim pieces to the closet using a chop saw to cut them to fit around the furring.

I nabbed a picture off the internet to show the ELFA system (mine is Platinum, not white) and there are "bookends" at each end of my shelf. If I had been smart I would have gotten the basket shelf they have which has a lip on it. That's what I have in my pantry.

I also hung a 6-compartment bamboo sweater bag from the closet rod for for jeans and folded clothes, plus, in the area just inside the door to the left I reinforced the wall in a small section near the top and hung a 45"L flat 6-pocket organizer. It's meant for files but I figure it will hold all sorts of goodies while hardly adding any weight itself.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:21 PM   #4
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Wardrobe pictures

It's harder than you think to photograph the closet. I couldn't get an unobstructed shot of it.

Plus, apparently I'm too ignorant to figure out why I can only load one picture at a time (I'm not exceeding file size) and how to load my pic on here in portrait format instead of sideways in landscape. Anyway, click on it and it should come up upright.
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:31 AM   #5
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Where did you get the shower door kit?
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glwolf View Post
Where did you get the shower door kit?

Order direct from Forest River. It's the same kit for their 2015 models. I saw a very similar kit at Camping World but can't recall the name???
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:28 AM   #7
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2000W Inverter Project

After upgrading my FR3 to all LED Lights, I thought I would move onto Step 2, Installing a 2000W Inverter before tackling Solar next summer. Inverter will be great for NASCAR Races and Rolling Road Trips.

I installed in the compartment next to the battery one. The closer your inverter is to the battery connection, the higher the efficiency.

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You will need to reinforce the back-wall of the compartment to hold the weight of the inverter. I used 3/4" plywood, screwed and braced with l brackets, and wrapped with weather tarp to help prevent rot and water damage.

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I decided to select underneath the TV for my Inverter Outlet. This way I can watch TV, Xbox, make coffee and have easy access to power.
I purchased a Extension Plug with USB Chargers from Radio Shack (the Source) and pluged it into a heavy duty extension cord. Here you can see it to your left. I will fix it to the wall later. Just dangling in position for now. (btw, in the background you will see the WiFi Go which I did at the same time and will post next)

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I then ran the extension cord behind the In-house Radio and down behind the wire run in the closet. You have to remove the wood panel that is in the corner to see where the wires run. You then will need to run the extension cord through the floor of the closet to where you can access from behind the Battery and Step switches and create a hole down to the battery compartment. Camping World sells the black hole fill for clean up afterwards (ahh cant remember the name of that stuff) This was the hardest part because there is not a lot of room to work there.

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Once you have routed the wire down, simply route to inside the compartment and plug into the Inverter.

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Now, many will go the extra step and put in an Automatic Transfer Switch but I couldn't really see the need. Since the FR3 plugs into itself when not on Shore Power, I went for a Remote Inverter Switch. (this can only be turned on when you are disconnected from Shore Power and are not running the Generator. When either Shore Power or Generator is going to be used, Inverter must be switched off)
I elected to follow the same path for the remote switch and installed near the outlet by creating a small hole inside the In-house radio compartment.

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Finally, time to connect the Battery Cables to the Inverter. The gauge of the cables depends on the distance between the Inverter and the Batteries.
I used this chart but this close, standard cables is fine....

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So far, so good. Enough power to make coffee , watch TV and stream from Xbox. Haven't tried to see how long the 2 batteries will give me yet but should figure out in my travels.

By the way, here"s the diagram I found on the Internet that gave me the idea....

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Old 08-01-2014, 07:53 AM   #8
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WiFi Ranger Sky Install

During the same time I installed my Inverter, I also took the opportunity to Install a WiFi Ranger Sky. (seeing as I had all the wire runs open).

Pretty easy install actually.
I started with locating an area where I could install the GO Router and easily access for hard wire connection if needed. It also had to be relatively close to reach from the SKY module.

Once again, underneath the TV proved to be the perfect location. I mounted the GO Router to the wall just inside the TV Compartment to the sidewall. I chose the left side so that I could easily run a 12V power supply to the battery. (you can use the AC power but I wanted access to my WiFi while not connected to Shore Power for such times as boon-docking or simply over-nighting at Walmart).

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I simply followed the TV Power Wire into the In-House Radio compartment and followed the wire run in the back of the closet to underneath behind the battery and step switches. Like I did with the above, I then ran the wire underneath the floor into the battery compartment and found a suitable ground and power supply.

Now that I had power to the GO Router, I went up on the roof and found a suitable location for the SKY. For easy wire fishing, I installed right over the TV Compartment. It's on a bit of an angle which is good in my opinion to keep water from collecting around the unit.

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You will need to drill a 5/8" hole in the roof down to the TV Compartment. *GASP* Yes, I did at first too, but it's really nothing to do if you do it right. First, the size of the bit is very important. Has to be 5/8" because there is a weather boot on the bottom of the SKY that fit snug in that size hole. You will then need to fish the wire down through the hole. This was a bit of a pain only because I pulled too hard and ripped off the yellow end grip. (its still somewhere in the hole) but luckily it not needed for operation. Just need more patience than me, lol. Then use plenty of Dicor along the sides after fastening to the roof. Once through, simply plug into the GO Router and you are done.

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The 1 wire from the SKY not only transfers the signal from the roof but is also runs power to it from the GO Router.

I used the SKY and GO on my last trip of 2 weeks, wow! I am impressed. It picks up those pesky WiFi Repeaters up to a mile and half away. (if not more) You no longer have to set up all your phones , IPads, etc at each campground. Just set up the GO and all your devices are connected.
It will not however improve your speed if the WiFi sucks to begin with but it will connect you to weak or far away signals and therefore speed up your connection by not dropping all the time and not having to resend data.
I"ll leave it to you to research if this is the right product for you.

Happy Camping!
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:00 AM   #9
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Surge Protector

Left this one to the experts... Installed at Dealer.

I chose this model because I had heard many complain that those connected outside were getting stolen. This is inline, so no worries there about protecting your investment.

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This location was chosen for the install simply because it was by far, the easiest. The only thing I don"t like about this location is that it protects against surges from the generator but generators have their own surge protection, so it"s redundant. Not a big deal but you have to wait the 2 mins after starting the generator to use power. (this model has the 2 min surge protection delay upon plugging in to shore power).

Fun in the Sun....well til winter!
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:29 AM   #10
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Anyone have projects planned this winter?
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:32 PM   #11
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Rearrange and get proper size totes and boxes for all the stuff we decided to carry, making the most of every possible inch of storage space. Also add another set of speakers to main TV, wireless probably to get surround sound into dinette booth.


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Old 11-12-2014, 06:30 AM   #12
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Rearrange and get proper size totes and boxes for all the stuff we decided to carry, making the most of every possible inch of storage space. Also add another set of speakers to main TV, wireless probably to get surround sound into dinette booth.


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I am also interested in adding Surround Sound. Please let us know how that goes. Adding Satellite over the winter and the surround sound would make a great addition.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:32 PM   #13
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Heat Strip Install

I had this posted in the FRS thread thought it might be useful here too.

I like to utilize the campground utilities to the maximum extent possible. I would rather use their electricity than my propane whenever possible. My unit is a 2015 so it has the electric water heater ability and the 15000 btu ac unit. The unit in mine is a Brisk Air II and Dometic makes a heat strip kit that will install in the unit. The part number for the heat strip kit is 3315450.00. The heat strip also requires a new thermostat and control box. The part number for that is 3313189.056. I was able to find both parts for less than 130.00. The instructions for the heat strip are very good and walk you right thru the installation the thermostat and control box not so much. After some looking you can actually just unplug all the connectors from the old box and connect them to the new box but you will need to open the cover from the new box and plug them in inside. Took me about and hour and a half to do the install and it is checking out fine so far. The heat strip will take the chill out to around 40 degrees OAT after that its the furnaces job.
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Old 06-21-2015, 06:16 PM   #14
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Has anyone thought or had the desire to change the compartment latches to the nicer black plastic handle one or the door latch to something that closes easier? I am just starting to research this, the cheap latches bug me!
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