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Looking for Help fast on charging/battery in storage
01-07-2012, 08:54 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio (Columbus)
Posts: 249
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My coach is gas so only one chassis battery. I do have 4 coach batteries though. I have access to electrical power in the hanger it is stored in for the winter.
I have two automatic trickle chargers and planned to disconnect the chassis battery (one post anyway) and connect one of the trickle chargers to keep it warm and charged over the next three months.
I also planned to disconnect the positive post of the lead (as in first of the series) coach battery and the negitive post of the last battery in the series so that I can hook up the other trickle charger. Same purpose, keep them warm and charged over the cold winter.
My guestion: Is this necessary?
If I simply plugged in the electrical system of the coach (50 amp but I can reduce the plug to 15 amp) would the batteries charge automatically via the inverter or converter, I believe I have a converter, I know I have a 1800 w inverter.
Am I doing all the above for no reason because the inverter/converter charges the batteries and will keep them up as long as there is electrical power even if it is only 15 amp?
Thanks, coach goes back in tomorrow so I'm in a bit of a rush. I don't have completely unteathered access to the hanger.
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2011 Coachmen Encounter 37TZ Ford F53Triton 362,BluOx/Patriot brk sys.Toad:2010 Wrangler Unlimited S, MntnEdt,RescueGreen. Mods:1800Invert-4/6Vbatts-SolarChg-AutoTransSw-WGdish SK3005HD-HDMICbls-SafeTPlus-Awnings-GenAutoSt-Auto rewind/storage pwrcord-Garmin-outsideTV.
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01-07-2012, 09:59 AM
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#2
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lake George, Mi
Posts: 385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roll
My coach is gas so only one chassis battery. I do have 4 coach batteries though. I have access to electrical power in the hanger it is stored in for the winter.
I have two automatic trickle chargers and planned to disconnect the chassis battery (one post anyway) and connect one of the trickle chargers to keep it warm and charged over the next three months.
I also planned to disconnect the positive post of the lead (as in first of the series) coach battery and the negitive post of the last battery in the series so that I can hook up the other trickle charger. Same purpose, keep them warm and charged over the cold winter.
My guestion: Is this necessary?
If I simply plugged in the electrical system of the coach (50 amp but I can reduce the plug to 15 amp) would the batteries charge automatically via the inverter or converter, I believe I have a converter, I know I have a 1800 w inverter.
Am I doing all the above for no reason because the inverter/converter charges the batteries and will keep them up as long as there is electrical power even if it is only 15 amp?
Thanks, coach goes back in tomorrow so I'm in a bit of a rush. I don't have completely unteathered access to the hanger.
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15amp is just fine for maintaining batteries. If your coach does charge/maintain the chassis battery also (most do not), you don't need to do anything except keep it plugged in. Well, you may want to use the battery disconnect switch if you don't want to keep the detectors powered up.
Otherwise, keep it plugged in and a use a trickle charger on the chassis. If you have a converter/charger and an inverter, turn the inverter off.
Next spring you may want to install one of these:
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer
A quick and easy install, then you can just forget about it. It will charge/maintain your chassis battery ANYTIME the coach batteries are being charged by ANY source. Just a few cycles of being heavily discharged, will render a starting battery useless. Best 50 bucks I've spent on hassles and peace of mind.
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01-07-2012, 10:12 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio (Columbus)
Posts: 249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlyon69
15amp is just fine for maintaining batteries. If your coach does charge/maintain the chassis battery also (most do not), you don't need to do anything except keep it plugged in. Well, you may want to use the battery disconnect switch if you don't want to keep the detectors powered up.
Otherwise, keep it plugged in and a use a trickle charger on the chassis. If you have a converter/charger and an inverter, turn the inverter off.
Next spring you may want to install one of these:
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer
A quick and easy install, then you can just forget about it. It will charge/maintain your chassis battery ANYTIME the coach batteries are being charged by ANY source. Just a few cycles of being heavily discharged, will render a starting battery useless. Best 50 bucks I've spent on hassles and peace of mind.
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Thanks... so turn the inverter off; will turning it off at the control panel serve or do I have to go to the unit in the basement to fully turn it off?
I'm sure the coach came with a converter, I thought most if not all do. Noted on the chassis battery, I'll hook up a 12 V charger/manager to it off the same power source the coach will be plugged into.
Thanks.
Roll
__________________
2011 Coachmen Encounter 37TZ Ford F53Triton 362,BluOx/Patriot brk sys.Toad:2010 Wrangler Unlimited S, MntnEdt,RescueGreen. Mods:1800Invert-4/6Vbatts-SolarChg-AutoTransSw-WGdish SK3005HD-HDMICbls-SafeTPlus-Awnings-GenAutoSt-Auto rewind/storage pwrcord-Garmin-outsideTV.
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01-07-2012, 10:42 AM
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#4
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lake George, Mi
Posts: 385
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Inverters are not my forte. I just know some MH are equipped with inverter/chargers and some with coverter/chargers with an optional inverter. If you have the latter, there's no need to keep it on. Sorry couldn't be more helpful.
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01-07-2012, 01:08 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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Well.. when it comes to simply plugging in the coach.
SOME coaches are equipped with bi-directional isolators but alas not all
Some coaches have quality 3 stage converters which can be left plugged in with the batteries connected full time,, but again not all.
So the answer is "It depends on if yours is one of "Some" or one of the "Not all" above.
Alas, I can't help you with that.
MINE, Well, much to my surprise, is one of the "SOME" in both groups.
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Home is where I park it!
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01-08-2012, 02:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 154
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Is it really ok to leave it plugged up all the time. I know my converter gets pretty warm when energized. Mine is an OLD unit and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a 3 phase charger. I just have 2 waterproof tenders hooked up to the chassis and coach batteres, but I don't like having to run extension cords across my yard.
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'87 Coachmen Leprachuan 26' on Ford E 350 w/ 460 cid, Hedman Headers, dual flowmaster exhaust
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01-08-2012, 05:10 PM
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#7
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lake George, Mi
Posts: 385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekrsq
Is it really ok to leave it plugged up all the time. I know my converter gets pretty warm when energized. Mine is an OLD unit and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a 3 phase charger. I just have 2 waterproof tenders hooked up to the chassis and coach batteres, but I don't like having to run extension cords across my yard.
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It doesn't hurt your batteries as long as you maintain the water level. Letting the water level go down to the plates will ruin it. These older single phase chargers weren't really meant to be left on 24/7/...365. They put out about 13.6 volts continuously. Which is fine for normal use.
When stored and there is no drain on the battery, that 13.6 volts will fully charge a low battery in about 70 hours. After that, it will continually keep that voltage there which will "boil" the battery and it will lose water faster than a 13.2 volt maintainer will.
A 3 or 4 phase charger will "boost" the battery at 14.4 volts until it reaches about 90% charged. The last 10% will be charged at the "normal" 13.6 volts. After that it goes down to 13.2 volts, which is enough to maintain it with reduced boiling effect.
I just installed a new Progressive Dynamics on my rig. It also has an "EQUALIZATION MODE". When in storage mode the microprocessor automatically increases the output voltage to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes every 21 hours. This is meant to boil the battery to better mix the sulfuric acid and the water. This will help to reduce the buildup of sulfation on the battery plates, which shortens the life of a battery.
As info, when you drive your rig, the alternator puts out 14.4 volts. So when it's driven, an anti-sulfation process is happening, as well as a good battery charge. Most battery manufactures recommend a good equalization every 1-2 months.
Some folks leave theirs plugged in while stored, others do for a few days every month....which is fine. Either way have to go to the rig once a month. The former to check battery water level. It's more a personal choice issue. The main thing is keeping the battery up, along with the water level.
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