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Old 05-30-2014, 07:17 PM   #29
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OK. We'll see how it works. I ordered one this morning, and if the timing is right, we'll be using it about 2 or 3 days after we receive it. Thanks to all for the info.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:35 PM   #30
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Mine showed up today. I haven't had a chance to uncrate it and do the assembly, plus our motorhome is on a lot 200 miles away. We'll bring it home next week and give the dolly a test run.
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:19 AM   #31
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OK. We'll see how it works. I ordered one this morning, and if the timing is right, we'll be using it about 2 or 3 days after we receive it. Thanks to all for the info.
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Mine showed up today. I haven't had a chance to uncrate it and do the assembly, plus our motorhome is on a lot 200 miles away. We'll bring it home next week and give the dolly a test run.
The "new" style straps and ramps will make everything a lot easier. A word of advice, don't hook up the safety chains real tight. If the car moves a little and they were hooked with no slack they can be a real pain to get loose. I bought an 18" hitch ball wrench at Wal-Mart for $10 to tighten the straps. Stopping and re-tightening after a couple of turns never hurts either.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:01 AM   #32
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Brockx, how much drop do you have on your hitch? I think I need a 10" drop. Is that measured from the top, bottom or middle of the receiver?
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:20 AM   #33
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I had to use a 8" drop. Measured from the bottom of the receiver cavity to the top of the ball seat on the hitch.

Example: if your receiver is 20 inches from the bottom of the cavity to the ground and you want your trailer hitch to be 14" from the ground (bottom of trailer hitch) you would need a 6" drop hitch.
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:54 PM   #34
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I bought an 18" hitch ball wrench at Wal-Mart for $10 to tighten the straps. Stopping and re-tightening after a couple of turns never hurts either.
Thanks for the tip. I think I already have that wrench in my garage. I'll keep it handy.
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Old 06-02-2014, 01:35 AM   #35
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EZE Tow.

I am the owner of a Roasdmaster tow dolly with electric brakes and truly love it. It tows fine, it steers fine, it follows the motorhomes rear wheels and when making turns it never touches tow vehicle. The ramps are attached and don't have to be disconnected and never give me a problem. It also has safety chains that you don't have to get under the vehicle to attach plus it has 2 storage compartments to put the straps in and they are lockable. This dolly has been to Alaska and back plus across the country 3 times with no problems.

Granted the Roadmaster costs more than yours but I was always taught you get what you pay for.

My dolly is equipped with a spare tire and a third wheel which makes it easy to push around if need be. It also has 13" tires.

Lastly Electric brakes are better on a dolly than surge brakes because the amount of braking is adjustable and surge brakes were mainly designed for boat trailers because the wheels get submerged and you can't submerge electric brakes.

Good luck folks with your EZE tow dolly but I would recommend a Roadmaster 2001` Steerable tow dolly.
The Roadmaster is a very nice dolly...but there are a couple errors in the post above...
First, electric brakes are no better than surge brakes. And actually, surge brakes can be much better for dollys as they automatically/infinitely adjust from a heavy load (dolly loaded) to no load with no user adjustment. There is also no controller in the RV or long electric wires from the drivers position to the rear bumper.

Second, the rule that you get what you pay (gotta pay more) for just doesn't hold true for the EZE-Tow, because cost savings come directly from deleting the pivot pan or steering tires that are just not needed on a dolly. The EZE-Tow steers just like a flat towed car, using the car's front steering to make a turn - simple genius!!

Thanks to Richard for making the EZE-Tow!! We have over 10,000 miles on ours that we bought second hand. We would recommend it to anyone.

Safe travels
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:27 AM   #36
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Plus, I think you can just toss the ramps in the toad if you want rather than strap them down. While my car is flat towable, the motor must be run etc. and I am not sure I want to risk tranny damage. A dolly would also allow us instant towing of any other front drive car without any modifications. I also like the fact I can wheel it into my shed over the winter and stand it on end to get it out of the harsh weather.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:36 PM   #37
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Ok. My MH receiver is 22" above ground, so I bought an 8" drop hitch. I also have an extension coming to mount my bike rack between the MH and the dolly. I'll be towing either my 2003 Jetta or my 2000 Chevy Venture. After on locking the steering wheel, what fuses will I need to pull? Possibly none on the VW as it stays unlocked in any position as long as the key is still in. The Venture?
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Old 06-28-2014, 02:18 PM   #38
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Response from EZE-Tow

I have requested information several times by email. I received responses back in 3 to 15 minutes. Two of these were on the weekend and one late at night.
I think that this is an indication of the type of Customer Service you can expect.

Remember when you are looking at price, with the EZE TOW there are no Middle Men to add additional markup. I will be buying an EZE TOW in the near future.
I plan on picking mine up at the factory.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:30 AM   #39
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I can now say that the Acme Eze-tow dolly is everything I hoped it would be. I called to ask about delivery and possibly have the time/date adjusted so as to have it before my last weekend trip. They were more than helpful, and I got it a day earlier than planned. assembly was super easy, only 4 bolts per fender and two of them held the LED lights on. That was it. The dolly towed without any problem, I hardly knew it was there. Everyone that has seen the price and pictures or actual dolly has agreed that it's the bet deal out there. Yup, another satisfied customer. And, it stores very well at the campground. See attached picture.
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Old 06-29-2014, 11:33 AM   #40
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Scarab,

First off as I stated in my post, originally surge brakes were for boat trailers as they can get wet with no problems whereas electric brakes can't. The only time surge brakes come into play is if you stand on the RV brakes then the surge brakes kick in. Going down a 10% grade and you want to just tap the brakes or even hold them down easy the surge brakes don't come into play. The vehicle has to push the actuator which actuates the master cylinder to push hydaulic fluid to the dolly brakes.The electric brakes are adjustable as to how much braking you want, can't adjust surge brakes to go on a little.
True you need to have a controller, however you don't have to run a long wire to the rear of the coach as most coaches have the blue wire already there so no big deal plus they now have a pigtail that comes with the coach and goes from the coach wiring to the contoller, any controller.
As for steering I prefer the steerable wheels on the tow dolly which follow the rear wheels of the RV so if your coach tires clear a gas pump island so will the dolly and naturally so will the car.
Another thing I guess you must have to do since your ramps are not on the dolly is you have to install them even in the rain and then crawl under neath to take them off, well you don't have to with a Roadmaster Tow Dolly.
As for parking at a campsite that is no problem either. I normally try to get a pull through and leave the dolly connected but if not the I back the dolly behind the coach and then back up the coach and reconnect it so I just have to pull out with dolly attached and then just drive car up on it.
Sure it is my preference and a few million other rvers because it is well built and does what it is designed to do, tow any front wheel drive car.

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Old 06-29-2014, 12:51 PM   #41
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Scarab,

First off as I stated in my post, originally surge brakes were for boat trailers as they can get wet with no problems whereas electric brakes can't. The only time surge brakes come into play is if you stand on the RV brakes then the surge brakes kick in. Going down a 10% grade and you want to just tap the brakes or even hold them down easy the surge brakes don't come into play. The vehicle has to push the actuator which actuates the master cylinder to push hydaulic fluid to the dolly brakes.The electric brakes are adjustable as to how much braking you want, can't adjust surge brakes to go on a little.
True you need to have a controller, however you don't have to run a long wire to the rear of the coach as most coaches have the blue wire already there so no big deal plus they now have a pigtail that comes with the coach and goes from the coach wiring to the contoller, any controller.
As for steering I prefer the steerable wheels on the tow dolly which follow the rear wheels of the RV so if your coach tires clear a gas pump island so will the dolly and naturally so will the car.
Another thing I guess you must have to do since your ramps are not on the dolly is you have to install them even in the rain and then crawl under neath to take them off, well you don't have to with a Roadmaster Tow Dolly.
As for parking at a campsite that is no problem either. I normally try to get a pull through and leave the dolly connected but if not the I back the dolly behind the coach and then back up the coach and reconnect it so I just have to pull out with dolly attached and then just drive car up on it.
Sure it is my preference and a few million other rvers because it is well built and does what it is designed to do, tow any front wheel drive car.

: thumb:
Thanks to Tom-NC for bringing some points to the spotlight:

Yes, dolly towing is great and easy to tow any front wheel drive car, up high and safe trom rock strikes, and adding no miles to the lower end of the car's drive-line like when flat towing.

History - Surge brakes (originally called Overrun Brakes) are actually older tech than electric brakes, invented for compact trailers without air brakes. Electric brakes came along later and yes, they were never suited for boat trailers.

Control - Surge brakes engage anytime there is positive (pressing forward) pressure on the hitch - any pressure. There is never a need to adjust. And because there is always a proper aspect (pulling) on the hitch, there is never a need to "tap" the trailer brakes.

Braking pressure - The amount of brake pressure applied with surge brakes is infinitly adjusted by the weight of the toad/dolly set. From fully loaded to empty, the brakes just work properly. And, anyone (me included) knows how adjusment of electric dolly brakes from empty to fully loaded is not a perfect science.

Ramps - With removable ramps, the ramps are just sitting on the ground next to the car after loading. There is no need to ever get under the car.

Trailer following - A dolly with a pivot pan and the ones without any pivot pan or steering axle follow the same path during a turn. A dolly with steering tires make a slightly shorter turn than the tow-rig, with the dolly wheels turning into the direction of the turn.

And a pivot pan or dolly steering is actually not required and just adds weight, because the fixed pan style makes a turn just like a flat towed car - where the car's steering negotiates the turn.

Safe travels
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:17 AM   #42
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I can now say that the Acme Eze-tow dolly is everything I hoped it would be. .................... The dolly towed without any problem, I hardly knew it was there. Everyone that has seen the price and pictures or actual dolly has agreed that it's the bet deal out there. Yup, another satisfied customer. And, it stores very well at the campground. See attached picture.
Looks good! Judging by your rear MH overhang I doubt you are seeing any inside tracking on turns. I would never have any other brand Dolly, utter simplicity!!
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