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Old 10-31-2015, 01:28 AM   #15
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More important than wax, is keeping it clean. If you have full body paint RV, its clear coat and a light washing with something like turtlewax zip wash is great if it has built up road dirt. Otherwise, find a good waterless washing system. I can't even imagine waxing a RV with buffers and polishing wheels.
Most of us RVers are at a point in life that waxing is not good exercise.
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benicia Tom View Post
It is heavier so you don't have to put as much pressure when taking out swirls and scratches. Also the flex covers more area in its orbit than the Porter Cable. If your happy with your PG I certainly would not buy a Flex even though I love mine.
You shouldn't physically put pressure on a buffer-grinder type tool, circular(orbital), DA or RA. The tool weight itself on other then vertical surfaces is sufficient along with the material being applied, be it compound, polish-wax, removing it or using the tool as a rotary sander. Vertical surfaces - all you need to do is hold it steady, with no real pressure. Using pressure you may burn the surface finish. As far as orbits - too much motion and you have a problem with good control.

I'm sure that the Flex is a great tool but at that price, it should be as the "standard" pro level tools, P-C, DeWalt, Bosch, etc, are much less expensive.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Davdeb1 View Post
More important than wax, is keeping it clean. If you have full body paint RV, its clear coat and a light washing with something like turtlewax zip wash is great if it has built up road dirt. Otherwise, find a good waterless washing system. I can't even imagine waxing a RV with buffers and polishing wheels.
Most of us RVers are at a point in life that waxing is not good exercise.
Your right, it is as important to keep your vehicles clean as well as claying, sealing and or waxing it. I also use a waterless wash most of the time on all my vehicles. I keep both of my cars in the garage and my Motorhome covered and I still do these proceedures at least twice a year. I detail all my vehicles myself and I'm 66.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:14 AM   #18
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Read the article and posts, checked out the website. I'll stick
with my Meguiars cleaner/wax paste. Nothing cleans and
waxes as well as a meticulous paste wax application done
by hand. And, I avoid the "microfiber" towels, microfiber is
just another name for polyester, a plastic fiber that absorbs
nothing, and can slightly scratch a surface. Stick with
100% cotton towels.
JMHO
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:14 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by macandphyl View Post
Read the article and posts, checked out the website. I'll stick
with my Meguiars cleaner/wax paste. Nothing cleans and
waxes as well as a meticulous paste wax application done
by hand. And, I avoid the "microfiber" towels, microfiber is
just another name for polyester, a plastic fiber that absorbs
nothing, and can slightly scratch a surface. Stick with
100% cotton towels.
JMHO

X 2 (at least)

The only Meguire's product that I've found that isn't particularly easy is their current liquid, NXT. I had very good luck with the paste but when I needed more couldn't find it locally. The liquid smears on warm to hot surfaces so I'll save it for the street rod
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:51 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Benicia Tom View Post
It is always important to clay any vehicle first before you put a wax or sealant on it. I wash with a vehicle soap that will remove any sealant or wax, then clay. I put a sealant on first then a good carnauba wax. I hope this helps.
Wow! Use a clay bar on my (whole) RV! You're a better man than me. Granted, clay barring my black roadster yearly is worth it--11 years old and I still get "I didn't think they made these any more" comments. However....doing my entire RV, I don't think so.
A random orbital tool and Zymol cleaner wax is good enough for me.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:18 PM   #21
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Wax

You talk of using a clay bar. I am unfamiliar with this, what is a clay bar and how is it used? Like some sort of scrubber?
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:58 AM   #22
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As someone who has taken car detailing very serious for a long time, I finally got a Flex about 2 years ago, and kick myself for not spending the money sooner. If you are into serious detailing, and paint correction (polishing), a Flex is going to make your life so much easier than any Porter Cable or similar orbital. I'm taking saving many hours of time on a car.........

I consider it to be between a traditional PC type orbital and a direct drive rotary (trained pros only....). If you are really working the paint, you do need to be concious of panel gaps or hard edges as you can burn the paint, but that is only is you are really laying into it. I would not recommend one to anyone that is not very comfortable with a regular orbital, and has a lot of experience in paint correction...........

As for getting one just to do your MH, proably a bit of overkill to me. I'll be doing a full detailing of our coach for the first time next month, and will certainly have to reset my expectations on what is acceptable for my finish. But, I will be glad I have a Flex particularly on the lower black portions of our coach!

To the above poster, regarding a clay bar. It is just that, a special bar of clay. After you thoroughly wash your vehicle, you rub th clay bar over the surface, using a detailing spray as a lubricant to remove surface contaminants from the paint. If you do it right, followed by a good polish, your paint will be smooth to the touch as a baby's rear end.....

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Old 11-01-2015, 06:46 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl View Post
As someone who has taken car detailing very serious for a long time, I finally got a Flex about 2 years ago, and kick myself for not spending the money sooner. If you are into serious detailing, and paint correction (polishing), a Flex is going to make your life so much easier than any Porter Cable or similar orbital. I'm taking saving many hours of time on a car.........

I consider it to be between a traditional PC type orbital and a direct drive rotary (trained pros only....). If you are really working the paint, you do need to be concious of panel gaps or hard edges as you can burn the paint, but that is only is you are really laying into it. I would not recommend one to anyone that is not very comfortable with a regular orbital, and has a lot of experience in paint correction...........

As for getting one just to do your MH, proably a bit of overkill to me. I'll be doing a full detailing of our coach for the first time next month, and will certainly have to reset my expectations on what is acceptable for my finish. But, I will be glad I have a Flex particularly on the lower black portions of our coach!

To the above poster, regarding a clay bar. It is just that, a special bar of clay. After you thoroughly wash your vehicle, you rub th clay bar over the surface, using a detailing spray as a lubricant to remove surface contaminants from the paint. If you do it right, followed by a good polish, your paint will be smooth to the touch as a baby's rear end.....

Regards
x2 rub your hand across your car after you have washed it, then rub your hand again after you a clayed an area, you will feel the difference.
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:01 PM   #24
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You talk of using a clay bar. I am unfamiliar with this, what is a clay bar and how is it used? Like some sort of scrubber?
As the last two mentioned, look at some youtube videos of clay bar applications on your car. I did it on my brand new Ram 2500 and it still make a world of difference. Maguires sells a good Clay Bar Kit wopith two bars and a detailed spray that works well. Any brand is probably fine. Wash your car well and drag your finger tips across the paint. Then clay bar the paint and rub your fingers on it. Night and day difference. It basically cleans all the crap and build up that gets on the paint over time that normal washing and polishing doesn't. Also use it on your windows.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Davdeb1 View Post
More important than wax, is keeping it clean. If you have full body paint RV, its clear coat and a light washing with something like turtlewax zip wash is great if it has built up road dirt. Otherwise, find a good waterless washing system. I can't even imagine waxing a RV with buffers and polishing wheels.
Most of us RVers are at a point in life that waxing is not good exercise.
Great tip Dave. The sooner you remove corrosive contaminants and oily road film, the better.

We formulated our RV wash with real carnauba wax, that way you add protection after each wash.

McKee’s RV Wash & Wax RV Shampoo

McKee’s RV Wash & Wax RV Shampoo is a thick, high-sudsing wash that removes dirt, grime, bugs, oil, black streaks, and other common contaminants that plague your RV from life out on the open road. Unlike harsh, alkaline-based detergents (they’re everywhere!), Wash & Wax RV Shampoo is a pH-balanced, environmentally-friendly formula that relies on smart chemistry rather than inexpensive butyl ethers and high octane cleaners. McKee’s RV Wash & Wax RV Shampoo cleans and shines your RV without spotting or streaking.




We even have a WATERLESS wash and wax. This product is great for RV parks, where water restrictions are often in place and/or the quality of the water stinks.

McKee's RV Wash & Wax On The Go

McKee's RV Wash & Wax On-The-Go provides an environmentally-friendly way of washing and waxing your RV. No hose, bucket, brush or free-flowing source of water is required. Formulated with high-lubricity cleaning agents and real carnauba wax, McKee's RV Wash & Wax On-The-Go cleans, shines and protects your RV in minutes; it can even be used in direct sunlight! Use on all hard surfaces inside and outside of your RV.

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Old 11-10-2015, 11:53 AM   #26
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Do decals suffer any harm from wax?
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:32 PM   #27
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Do decals suffer any harm from wax?
Great question.

You want to avoid using paste waxes and (thick) liquid waxes on decals. What you should use is a high quality spray wax that contains both UVA and UVB light absorbers. A great example would be McKee's RV Final Step Detail Wax. Regular application will keep your RV's vinyl decals looking new.

McKee's RV Final Step Detail Wax





For decals that need a little TLC, you would use our Vinyl Decal & Graphic Restorer.

If you have a class B or C motor home, chances are your decals have already begun to fade. If not, they will fade very soon! Restore faded decals and protect new ones with McKee’s RV Vinyl Decal & Graphic Restorer, the first and only product of its type. This polymer-based conditioner is fortified with nourishing oils that penetrate deep into the surface, lifting embedded dirt and road film from the material so the original glossy appearance of the decal is restored. Synthetic polymers rejuvenate the color while creating a water-resistant film of protection that will not wash off.



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Old 11-12-2015, 07:23 PM   #28
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I'm surprised that no one has raised the issue of the cleaner/polish qualities of this product. My coach is only two years old and I keep it polished two times a year as well as regular washings. I never use a product with any abrasive qualities because I believe it will eventually degrade the clear coat and finally, the paint. I'd rather spend the extra time up front keeping it clean and waxed than risk damaging the finish with a cleaner/polish product.
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