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Old 12-31-2014, 08:11 AM   #15
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Workhorse Chassis Owner
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Location: Western Montana
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Your attached schematic is VERY similar almost exactly the same as mine 2008 Itasca Sunstar. Two battery isolation solenoids and one "Boost" solenoid - the Boost relay gets it power from two places one the Dash boost switch via the chassis batteries and two from the ignition switch via the engine battery - with ignition on the solenoid closes to allow the engine alternator to charge the chassis battery - a very simple basis system.

The solenoids do fail (not too often) and are easily checked with a DMM

There is no relay or breaker at the converter output - ONLY the fuses located on the converter and the DC distribution panel. The converter output goes to one side of the Chassis Battery Isolation relay the Battery to the other side of the relay aka solenoid. This allows the converter to power the coach without the batteries connected if you so desire (I would NOT recommend it for everyday use) check the voltage and operation of 12 VDC equipment with the switch open batteries disconnected - if not 13.6Vdc then the converter (or fuses) are the issue.

Be will to bet it's the WFCO gone south - repaired as many as 50 of those exact converters

Please do not toss your defective Converters / Inverters / etc. in the trash
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:26 PM   #16
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Had to go out today, thus little time spent on my PC, but I think KJINTF has your answer re the converter connection being on the load side of the isolation relay, albeit the nomenclature of the "chassis" isolation relay , I think that should read "coach" . The reference to "engine battery" would be "chassis" . At least this is what the schematic I have reads and is how I would name them. And the "boost" selonoid is called a "mode selonoid" on this schematic, go figure. Regardless of the name, the function is the same: I.e. connect the chassis and coach batteries together as required.

Having the converter connection on the load side of the isolation relay would prevent battery charging with the isolation relay open but DC would be provided to the coach with the batteries disconnected. I guess there are pros and cons to this setup.

Anyway, you need to determine if the converter is functioning, I suspect it is not. Did you confirm 120vac was applied to the input of the converter and if yes, do you get ~13.5vdc output. If the latter is yes then there would be A/C input. Not certain if your converter has internal breakers or fuses. I suspect it has. Good luck.

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Old 12-31-2014, 09:08 PM   #17
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Our 2010 Vista came with a Schumacher converter that I think was a single stage and never fully charged the house batteries. We had a problem running 12v even while connected to shore power, so not sure we have a relay to bypass the batteries. Upgraded to Progressive Dynamics and no problems since then.
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:30 AM   #18
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Thanks Libero, very much appreciate your time and assistance with this.

The charger that "kicked in" is my Stanley 8 amp car charger. I don't know if the converter is working as I was just looking for 12v functionality in the house but if I un-isolate the batteries and the converter is charging them then the voltage should read > 12 VDC, right? I have them fully charged right now, so if the converter switches off when fully charged I'd need to leave a light or something on for a bit to deplete them so that the converter can kick in.

I'll measure voltage while isolated, reconnect them and keep measuring looking for an increase in voltage.
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:40 PM   #19
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Glad to be of assistance. The output from your onboard charger should be ~13.6v and given your converter is on the load side of the isolation relay, there would be DC in your coach with the isolator relay open if the converter is working properly. I think it is evident your converter is not providing DC if you are connected to 120AC and have no DC in the coach. Need to focus on problems associated with the converter charger. I recommend you verify 120VAC is provided to the converter input. Then checking all breakers/fuses and connections associated with the converter. If all is ok there, well a more indepth technical look at the converter will be required. Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:45 PM   #20
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That was it - thank you. Resolved.

Thank you Libero. I had to leave this for a few and got back to it this weekend. I turned on all the interior lights with the batteries reconnected to draw them down from full charge to see it the converter/charger was giving me 13+V indicating battery maintenance, like we discussed. I was tidying up the inside and heard the fan in the converter kick in - I was quite surprised. I isolated the batteries again and low-and-behold, the 12V stayed on from the converter - it's back!

Looks like your theory about the batteries being too depleted was right and once charged again the converter reset itself and came back online.

The lead-in to all of this was our coach had been in the repair shop for three months after a disagreement with a gas station this summer that almost tore the rear wall off our RV. The original estimate was a three-week repair but they kept it for three months. It would seem that whatever they were doing with my RV all that time (supposedly waiting for a replacement bedside cabinet from Winnebago) drained the coach batteries completely at which point nothing would latch on, not even the isolation relay.

Thanks again folks, especially Libero, and hopefully this post helps someone else in the future.

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