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Old 11-11-2012, 08:07 PM   #15
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Go here, a great tool


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Old 11-11-2012, 08:48 PM   #16
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I agree with the above posts. You may have the problem on the extension cord ends or the connectors the extension cord plugs into.

To check for problem areas, run the hearer at the end for a bit and then turn off the power. Then disconnect the extension cord and with an infrared thermometer gun (laser temp gun) read the temperature at each of the four connection points:
-RV receptacle,
-RV end of extension cord,
-the source end of extension cord and
-the source/supply receptacle.

Check the sides and at the connection pins. Any temperature that is noticeably higher that the others is the suspect connector and it may need replacing.

Most likely source of the problem is the connector on the RV or at the electricity supply point. I'd be especially suspicious of a supply connection that is outside in the weather even if it is a "waterproof" box.

Northern California
2000 Alpine Coach 36' FDS, Cummins ISC 330
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:18 PM   #17
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#10 is good up to 99 feet for 30 amp. every 100 feet you go up one size. so your #8 is good. your voltage droping from 121 to 108 under load. open up you main panel. with the load on one leg (your 108volts) check the voltage on both legs feeding the bus bars. if you read 108 volts on one leg and 144 volts +- on the other you have a bad neutral... colud be a loose connection even a bad crimp on the supply power from your electric company. over head the triplex. under ground back in the vault. when this happens the power drop on one leg will swing to the other leg. if there's no voltage drop on the other leg. them a bad connection somewhere on that leg, or neutral heading back to the panel. (was an electrican. first time i ran across a bad neutral the swiming pool got voltage in the water. took us a while to find the problem as there was a lot of illegal things to fix, under ground feed, the neutral got cut and sent power to the conduit. after that when things acted stupid first check. found a lot of bad neutrals).------ps. i forgot. when you're checking the voltage on the legs turn off everything except the 30 amp circuit. you don't want a load on the other leg. then look for voltage swing when under load.---also check the voltage on the bus bar and then on the load side of the breaker. (sometimes breakers don't get a good bit. especially zinsco panels and federal panels)
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #18
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Hi All
Thank you guys, it was a louse leg in the house box
thank you all for your help
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:27 PM   #19
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For A Fix

Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
I agree with what others have stated in regards to using caution about how much load you put onto that very long cable. You don't want to overload its ability. Use your KaW to monitor your usage, do not relay on the 30 amp circuit breaker to fully protect you as they will handle more until they get old and cranky.

If you want to spend some bucks, you could purchase a PowerMaster Voltage Booster. I have a 50 amp one, VC-50 which is wired first in line with my shore power cable. That eliminates any voltage drops due to long runs and poorly wired RV Parks.

PowerMaster Total Voltage Control

It will boost your voltage 2.5% or 12% whenever needed.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
The PowerMaster is a total fix to problems like this. Plus, you get full surge protection of up to 3,580 joules

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