Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-17-2015, 10:06 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 478
Quote:
Originally Posted by PushedAround View Post
If you are worried about the inverter running your batteries down on a power failure, why not just use a small plug-in battery charger to keep them topped off, and leave the inverter shut off? You probably should carry one anyway. Years ago on my very first outing my inverter failed and fortunately a veteran camper had a charger to lend me. I'll never be without a small charger, just in case.

__________________

__________________
Bucky1320 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-17-2015, 10:23 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 120
When in long term storage i.e., longer than 30 days, I turn the chassis battery switch to OFF as well as the battery disconnect (manual switch). I also turn the inverter OFF so there is very very little draw on the system. Our new parking space has 15 amp plug ins but it has tripped every time I check on the unit so I just run the genset every month or so to charge up the batteries.

It seems the newer electrical breakers being used now are much more sensitive and trip much more easily. We have the same problem in our newer home and it bugs me to no end. Can't even run the vacuum cleaner in the bedroom without it popping the breaker with nothing else running....stupid city building codes.
__________________

__________________
2008 Allegro Bus, 42ft QDP, 2007 Spartan chassis, RS3000 Xantrex inverter, 2001 Acura MDX Toad, Blue Ox baseplate, Blue Ox Aventa LX towbar, SMI Silent Partner, Toad Charge, Cobra WX75, Garmin GPS/XM
SteveR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 07:15 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 5,976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monacoach View Post
I leave the propane on as a backup in case power is lost. I hope I dont deserve to lose my food.
You are like the people who try to use netflix in a park with bad WiFi. Your refrigerator load is one of the one's that help choke the system. If you must leave it on put it on propane manually.
__________________
nothermark is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 08:50 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monacoach View Post
I leave the propane on as a backup in case power is lost. I hope I dont deserve to lose my food.
That will work until your batteries run down, then your food will still be lost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PushedAround View Post
If you are worried about the inverter running your batteries down on a power failure, why not just use a small plug-in battery charger to keep them topped off, and leave the inverter shut off? You probably should carry one anyway. Years ago on my very first outing my inverter failed and fortunately a veteran camper had a charger to lend me. I'll never be without a small charger, just in case.
This is a good solution. But I would take it one step further and flip the battery disconnect switches: minimize the load on the batteries, and top them off with the maintainer when there is power available.

By battery switches, I mean hard disconnect switches at the house and chassis batteries, I don't mean a "Salesman Switch" that many coaches have by the front door. The salesman switch does not disconnect all battery power (mine still leaves power to critical loads like the refrigerator and CO/LP detectors) nor does it disconnect the chassis batteries. If you don't have hard disconnect switches by the batteries, install them.

Basically, treat it as long term storage without power, but use two small plug-in maintainers (or a dual output system) to keep the batteries up to snuff when there is power.

Or, move on and find a better storage lot.
__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 08:50 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
TLGPE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CLEARWATER, FLORIDA
Posts: 728
One problem with converter/chargers is that they can draw very high amps when the batteries are low. This will overload the breakers an trip them. On ours, the Progressive monitor will drop out if the input voltage get a little low, so the charger never get going at all.


Best advice is a small (cheap) charger for the short term. Then get some solar panels installed. I used two Renegy 100 watt panels. That does it very nicely.


Tom
__________________
Tom & Jan ---- Westwing43
RVM28
2005 NEWMAR KSDP 3910 NOW PULLING A 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA
TLGPE is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 09:46 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 805
OP here. Thanks for all the replies. The lot is free parking for residents of this development; I gave up a spot in a paid lot for this. I was paying $185 a month for a spot on a lot with no power or shade. This lot is only a few blocks from home while the other was about 19 miles.

My chassis batteries seem fine. The coach has a small solar panel to keep them happy. I don't know the output; it's about 6x8 or 8x10 inches. It's the house batteries that are a problem. I shut off the master power switch (the salesman switch - there is one just inside the door and another on the panel to the driver's left). This shuts everything down that I can identify, except the inverter, which has its own switch. When I kill that I can't find anything that is working, yet if I come back a week later the battery is well under 12 volts. Looks like I need a physical cutoff switch in the battery bay. Or solar, of course - sun, I have lots of.
__________________
2018 Entegra Anthem 44A
DeeGee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 10:57 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
F4Gary's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 944
Pretty sure a battery cutoff switch needs to go on the negative terminal, not the positive.
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS W20
ReadyBrute Elite towing an '07 CRV
F4Gary is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 11:16 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
bluepill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 2,246
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)


All the info you will ever need.




My procedure before storage is to fully charge all batteries, including an equalization charge. Then I disconnect the "final" negative cable in each of the banks at the battery itself. I don't trust disconnect switches. By "final", I mean the last cable that actually goes to ground at the frame of the coach.


This should be good for at least 60 days with healthy batteries with temps between 20 and 90 degrees.
__________________
2008 Itasca Meridian 37H & 2015 Flagstaff T12RBST
2011 & 2012 Len & Pat's "One lap of America"
27K miles & 41 states in 13 months - Woo Woo
Yellowstone Lake 6-1-2012
bluepill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 07:17 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by F4Gary View Post
Pretty sure a battery cutoff switch needs to go on the negative terminal, not the positive.
Actually...normally it goes on a positive cable/terminal on a negative ground system. I can understand why that would seem to make sense. However...here is my experience and what I did when I found when I installed mine.

I installed a simple on/off switch in my coach and when I read the instructions it was pretty darn clear it went on the positive cable. If you think about it it makes sense. The idea is pretty basic. You are trying to either stop battery drain and/or protect someone from being shocked when working on wiring. If you cut off on the negative side you can still have a short direct to ground at any point of the system on either side of the switch. However, if you install your battery disconnect on the positive cable then any point AFTER that switch will not have any chance of shorting to ground with power because there isn't any power. Of course, an short to ground prior to the switch is bad news.

As an example, if you were doing some wire work around your inverter mounted between chassis rails you could easily make contact from either the + or - connectors with a wrench when disconnecting the leads of the inverter. If you put the cut off on the negative side of the battery bank and you short out from the inverter connectors to the rails...ZAP! You just completed the circuit. OTOH with the positive side protected by the cut off switch there is no power to be ground out by the wrench our your hands.

I know for a fact that Magnum Energy instructions show any cut off switches on the positive leading to the inverter and every installation diagram/instructions I was able to find via Google also showed the same.

Also, my master cut off switch in the engine compartment is also wired on the positive side of the starter batteries. Kinda re-enforced my research.

BTW...it still gets pretty tricky. Ever notice all the direct connect wires such as for steps and such that have their own leads to the battery? Yep...there are still potential points of battery power going to chassis ground but all those smaller systems direct connected to your batteries should be protected with their own fuses. I figured that out this spring when I had to replace an alternator that still had some current to it even with both my battery disconnects turned off. Not until I physically removed those extra connections did the current go away at the alternator leads. Of course, you could move them to the other side of a battery disconnect switch and fix that problem to.
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 07:54 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
I agree with Sky Boss about putting the disconnect on the positive side. However, when making the actual battery connections, always disconnect the negative first, and connect it last. When working on the negative terminal, if the wrench should happen to touch a metal frame or body part, nothing bad will happen. But if working on the positive post, with the negative already connected, if the wrench should happen to touch a metal frame or body part, there will be a direct short and a lot current. Worse still, that high current could weld the wrench in place making it impossible to break the circuit - current will keep flowing until the wrench melts or the battery explodes - and neither is a good scenario.
__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:09 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Old Scout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,937
Not sure what problem you are really trying to solve--basic issue is sharing 15 amps with numerous other coaches--you have no idea what they are doing to config their coaches. Under these circumstances, trying to depend on the inverter side for anything like a fridge is impossible. So leave the inverter side off. You can continue to use the charger side to change bats while shorepower is on but suggest setting charge function to lowest power share--eg 5 or 10 amps. Problem here is that after a long outage, most inverters will come on at 15-20 amp draw to recharge bats. Unless all RV owners use the powershare function to minimize charger draw, the shorepower will be in a constant state of outage. If its just to keep the bats charged, install a battery minder/trickle charger and use whatever power is available to charge bats when you can.....
__________________
Old Scout
2003 40' MDTS
Garden Ridge, Texas
Old Scout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2015, 12:29 AM   #26
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,294
"DeeGee"......you may need to learn more about your coach. You have a high end coach that has the ability to turn the inverter on and off without affecting the charger. Most likely you have a Magnum Inverter. Right next to the Inverter on/off button is a charger on/off button.


I would also venture to bet that you have some mechanical switches in your battery bay that will allow you to completely turn off your house batteries. Your coach has a LOT of systems that may be off, but are ALL drawing some parasitic power for their memory. For instance, I'll bet when you turn everything off, your TV's still have red lights on, showing they're off. That's a parasitic draw. Add all of these up and they will draw your batteries down.


I would buy two small, "Battery Tender" battery charges and connect one to your house batteries and one to your chassis batteries. The OEM solar panel on the roof s not very reliable, If the storage yard issues are caught within a few days of tripping a breaker, you should be okay.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2015, 03:48 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 805
Don, I do have a Magnum inverter. I was not aware that the charger could be on without the inverter. I'll pick up a pigtail and try plugging in to see how it goes.
__________________
2018 Entegra Anthem 44A
DeeGee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2015, 03:59 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
ShapeShifter's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeGee View Post
Don, I do have a Magnum inverter.

If you have the remote control with the display, you're all set. Like a Don says, you have separate on/off buttons and indicators for the inverter and charger portions.

You also have a "Shore" button: push it, then turn the large dial to select how much current yup want to allow the charger to draw from your shore cord. Scroll to a value, then push the large dial to select it. You can turn it up to 50 amps when you have full power (or running the generator) for a fast charge. Or, when in storage, you can turn it down to 5 or 10 amps: it will take longer to charge, but will make it much less likely to trip the limited share power. The concerns others have expressed about plugging in with low batteries would then not apply.
__________________

__________________
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
Home base near Buffalo NY, often on the road to a dog show
ShapeShifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
30 amp in a 50 amp coach jameshawk Newmar Owner's Forum 7 03-19-2015 09:42 AM
converting from 20 amp to 50 amp Jimdel41 iRV2.com General Discussion 6 01-22-2015 03:47 PM
RV 30 and 50 amp service jastinjr RV Systems & Appliances 13 06-27-2014 05:31 PM
Replacing 45 amp Charger/Converter to higher amp bproulx12 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 19 03-20-2014 10:26 AM
Heart Freedom 458 inverter excessive idle amp draw jm80129 RV Systems & Appliances 9 06-10-2013 04:45 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.