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Old 07-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #29
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What's above the converter? Is that a dinette seat bottom or a drawer that could be pulled for easier access to the converter?

From what little bit I see, and looking at the diagram you found, best guess is you have the linear type - if that's of any help? BUT, the color codes shown in that linear diagram are not going to work for you. They show a blue wire leading to your load center, you obviosly have red.

In thinking about all this, you may have a master switch or some type of battery disconnect relay in your circuit, that's used to disconnect the coach from the battery while in storage? If that's turned off, or inop for any reason, the sytem is going to act just like you describe? Power at each end, but they can't see/find one another? These disconnects are usually in the battery compartment or very close by, but could be up under the hood as well. -Al
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breed View Post
oops
Bless you!!!
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:19 PM   #31
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What's above the converter? Is that a dinette seat bottom or a drawer that could be pulled for easier access to the converter?

From what little bit I see, and looking at the diagram you found, best guess is you have the linear type - if that's of any help? BUT, the color codes shown in that linear diagram are not going to work for you. They show a blue wire leading to your load center, you obviosly have red.

In thinking about all this, you may have a master switch or some type of battery disconnect relay in your circuit, that's used to disconnect the coach from the battery while in storage? If that's turned off, or inop for any reason, the sytem is going to act just like you describe? Power at each end, but they can't see/find one another? These disconnects are usually in the battery compartment or very close by, but could be up under the hood as well. -Al
No, this is floor level under a closet. But the fact it is mounted on a board and can be moved is a real plus.

I agree and think you are on the right track. I think they "modified" something/somewhere. Yes, it looks like a linear type converter.

Remember, there IS a blue wire coming out of the converter - then someone "patched" it into a red wire with an insulated terminal on the base of the converter. So it does kinda follow the schematic... except as outlined below.

What is strange to me is that the schematic indicates a red wire going to the battery from the converter and mine is black.??? But the info is from the company that bought out the original manufacturer. Or maybe they just ran out of red wire that day? Who knows.

I'm thinking the next order of business is to check continuity of that black wire and see where it ends. The battery/generator hold is a Fibber McGee closet too. Why doesn't anybody tag modifications for the next guy?

But, I was delighted to hear the snap of the relay.

Onward through the electrical fog.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:32 AM   #32
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That's not too bad actually, all things considered. There is a relay visible. It could be the one we're looking for, it could be used to charge the battery when the engine is running, or it could be an emergency start relay used to couple the engine and coach batteries together momentarily with a switch on the dash. I doubt that the second and third possibilities are true due to the style of relay used. So the question is does it work? With the coach plugged in, maybe you could reach around to the big terminal on the far side of that relay and see if you have power there?

Have you looked in the cupboard above the entry door for anything?
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #33
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Here is what I think Iím agonna do.

As a computer tech you learn to remove variables to simply troubleshooting.

In this mess is a Nuvatech (now defunct), later Intellitec (out of production) remote battery monitoring/disconnection system.
It consists of a relay (should be two) and a remote panel mounted above the entry door. (Note that is not even working for chassis)

Since we are full timing, this system does not seem necessary.

I am going to connect battery wire directly to the system side of the relay and disco the grey and purple.

If the problems still remain, we are left with the converter and wiring to review.

Comments or Suggestions?
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #34
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Unrelated...about the roof...
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:52 PM   #35
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I had a 1989 Alumalite with the same problem. No power on the 12v side. The bar with all the wires connected to it had a line of mini breakers I called them and five of the 8 were bad. $ 4.00 bucks each at PPL and I was back in business.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:25 PM   #36
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I had a 1989 Alumalite with the same problem. No power on the 12v side. The bar with all the wires connected to it had a line of mini breakers I called them and five of the 8 were bad. $ 4.00 bucks each at PPL and I was back in business.
Where were the mini-breakers located?

Thanks,
Bill
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:36 PM   #37
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So you found the disconnect relay control panel. Now you have a better idea of what is going on. To find the chassis relay, look up under the hood (assuming you have gas) or in the chassis batt. compartment (if you have diesel)

If you're full timing, moving both the wires to one side or the other will bypass the relay with no other work. Leave the rest intact in case you ever want to repair the system.

The new pic of the batt. compartment shows the auto reset mini breakers on the alum buss bar to the right in your pic. They are very simple to test. Every one of them should have power on both sides. If you find one that doesn't it's junk, or temporarily popped. It should come back on by itself within seconds. If you see fit to replace one, note that they are available in different capacities like breakers on a 110v panel. -Al
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:29 AM   #38
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"Auto reset mini breakers"? Ho-Lee Crap! Yesterday I would have thought those things might live on the same planet as unicorns. I had never heard of them. When I first started poking around down there, I thought it a little odd that they just didn't bolt everything right on the bus bar. But now I see those rascals.

The chassis battery relay...duh! It sure would make sense that it would mounted near to the chassis battery wouldn't it now?

Aside from being a humbling experience, it is rewarding to learn something new every day while getting to know your coach.

Now - to get the VOM out and start testing...

Thank You - Thank You -Thank You
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:28 AM   #39
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Hey, it looks like the fog is lifting and the sun's coming out!

Best of luck, -Al

BTW, retired computer tech here too. Got into that after working as a service manager at a larger RV dealership for 19 years. I learned logic will win every time a LONG time ago....
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:06 AM   #40
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In case you do not know, the battery disconnect solenoid is a mechanical latch style solenoid. Power to the coil is only momentary (only while the switch is depressed). The switch reverses polarity to the coil to turn it ON and OFF. Position of the contacts (ON/OFF) is maintained mechanically vice electrically. This allows the solenoid to be used without having constant power to the coil at all times (prevents battery drain). It is not unusual for some coach manufactures to not connect the converter to the coach battery side of the solenoid. When solenoid is OFF, the converter would not be able to charge the battery.

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Old 07-22-2013, 09:24 AM   #41
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Quote:
later Intellitec (out of production) remote battery monitoring/disconnection system.
Far as I know Intellitec is still in business and putting stuff out (Speciality vehicle power distribution, charging, switching and controlling electrical systems from Intellitec). They just stopped posting so much of their product information on the web about 6 months ago. Looks like they now just depend on their distributors to post information.

Concerning the converter. The transfer relay is inside the unit (http://www.parallaxpower.com/3200/3200internal.pdf). The red wire should be inside the unit to the back panel

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Old 07-23-2013, 10:40 AM   #42
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Dr. ahicks, Dr. Dave78Chief, everybody gets a cigar!

Here is what I found.

* All Auto reset mini breakers are functional.
* With 110V present - power to the bus is being provided by that black wire (from the converter) in the middle of the bus. I know this because I disco'd the wire, the bus went dead and the black read 12.75V
* With no 110V present the 3240 converter is doing its job and "switching" over to battery. I know this because when I attached my dying hand-held battery directly to the bus, the lights stayed on. Dim but on.

So for now I'll bypass that remote disco relay (which I am not using) and order a new deep cycle battery. The only thing is I might lose the volt readout inside the coach.

One other thing. The reading of 12.75V on the bus (no battery connected) with converter (charger) power on seems a little low. When I attached my dying hand-held battery to the bus the reading went up to 17.0V. I assume the converter detected the sick battery, but isn't 17.0V a little high?


I also wonder what the wires in the 5 other bus attachments are/do?
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