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Old 04-03-2015, 01:27 PM   #15
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Battery Connections?

I seem to have found everything I needed to learn about my Arrow except for how do I hook up the 3 12 volts Battery?

Again its a 1990 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, 454 Chevy V8. All the battery's were removed. I have no idea how to hook them back up I have 8 various sizes & colors of connectors & Jumpers.

A picture of a 1990 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Battery compartment would be fantastic. (all connected of course)

If needed I can take a picture of all the wires.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:36 PM   #16
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Trying to get a RV running after sitting 5 years

I finally finished with everything, Battery hookups, added a gallon of Sea Foam to 90 gallons of old fuel, Oil change & even fixed a inner passenger side dully tire that went flat. That was a job! So the big day came! I went to start her up & WOW!!! it fired right up and ran so perfectly you would think she was going down the Highway yesterday! After 15 or so minutes of running, with now and again revving the engine slightly I dropped her down to a nice idle and she started to sputter then died. I can only get it started again by adding some starter fluid then pumping the pedal. If I let go she dies. Where do I start. Here's a video of whats happening. Any help on this one gets life long indebtedness!



https://youtu.be/3xknZaE5_do
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:29 PM   #17
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While it may be somewhat of a project try running it off a small tank of gas. The type of can that you would use to fill your lawn mower. I'm not 100% sure that would work since you would be bypassing the fuel pump. Hopefully someone else here can address that. If running the fuel directly into the carb (via a line running directly to the carb) works then you could rest assured that the fuel is an issue.

I'm not expert on fuel systems but if that would work without the fuel pump then you'll have a better idea what the problem is.

This also was on YouTube:

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Old 04-20-2015, 07:02 PM   #18
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Thank you for the suggestion, my thought is if it ran for 15 + minutes just fine could bad fuel be the problem. I saw the video as well and started on replacing the easiest things 1st. I changed out the map sensor, made no difference. I say a video where someone disconnected the temperature control sensor (just to check it) and that fixed the lean running issue so I tried that, no difference. I remember once I had a jeep Cherokee in line 6 with injectors, one day I could not get it to start, I checked fuel and it was getting fuel. So of course we looked at everything else. Much money latter with no improvement I called a Mobil mechanic. He was expensive but he determined in just a few minutes it was the fuel pump not pushing at near the pressure needed. He replaced the fuel pump & it started right up. I just hate to think I have to pull the tank and all that fuel because the fuel pump is in the tank.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:10 PM   #19
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It sure sounds like bad fuel. My dad's truck sat for long periods of time after his passing...not as long as your MH, but it did sit for months at a time. It ran great until one day it started running a little rough...just like your describing. I put some high test in it and it seems to run like a top, again. The next time I tried to drive it, it hesitated and ran very rough. Ran a compression check and found number 3 had virtually zero compression.

I knew I had a valve problem. Took it to a place I trusted and they found that bad, gummy gas caused a valve stem to stick and the piston bent the stem. I didn't care for the idea that I'd killed Dad's truck from my neglect, so I had it fixed for more than it was worth. It was a '84 with 38K miles on it.

Anyway, the point is, don't screw around with bad fuel. I would get someone out there to dump that fuel. If it gums just one valve, you'll spend more money than you ever could getting rid of that old fuel. I learned my lesson.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:04 PM   #20
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I would drain the fuel tank, you have gas that is 5 years old, you have determined that the motor run when you spray starting fluid in it. Get some fresh gas for that motor
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:52 PM   #21
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OK I guess nothing more to do but drain the tank.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:22 PM   #22
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OK I guess nothing more to do but drain the tank.
Several years ago I owned a 1990 Pace Arrow on the Chevrolet chassis. I'm pretty sure you have a throttle body fuel injection system, NOT a carburetor 454 chevy. If so, there is an in tank fuel pump. You will hear it hum with the ignition key in the on position. The fuel pump has a fuel filter sock on the pickup end of the pump which is at the very bottom of your fuel tank. These pumps will become clogged with crud from the rust and other crap in the tank. I would suggest dropping your tank and replacing the fuel pump. Also while you have the tank down, get it cleaned out before you put it back in service. One more thing! As long as the tank is out, it's a good time to replace all rubber fuel lines connected to the tank as the rubber will crack and leak with age.

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Old 04-21-2015, 11:32 AM   #23
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I really think your direction to finding this problem Sammie, is right on target. In the process I will end up doing what everyone else suggested (drain the tank). I feel your right for a few reasons, I don't think there is anything wrong with the engine since I have already checked for compression, fouled plugs, ignition system & the major TBI senors (Map & Temp Sensors) The generator which has its own supply to the fuel tank, starts right up and runs great. Just as the engine did for the 1st 15 minutes. Adding 1 gallon a Sea Foam to a full tank of old gas may not give you perfect gas but I was told it will keep bad gas from clumping or allowing valves to stick. You will have a better chance of having old oil make a valve stick when using Sea Foam research shows me. (and I changed the oil before starting the RV). I cant hear the fuel pump at all when I turn on the ignition, I know its working since I opened a fuel line and saw gas coming out, but I had no way to test the pressure. Like I said the generator has its own setup independent from the RV's fuel system, that's why its starting every time & running perfectly. Basically telling me the RV's engine is not getting the proper amount of fuel. (even if its old) Checking the internet intensely I see time & time again people can Start & Run engines with fuel as old as 15 years. (are they all lying?) I'm not saying its OK to run old fuel in a RV, I just don't think the old fuel is the problem. I completely agree with Sammie, The fuel pump is clogged or/and not working. Which ironically was caused by old fuel
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:53 PM   #24
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Obviously, if it ran perfectly for 15 minutes and then started needing to be pumped ... something in the fuel delivery system changed. This likely is something that has clogged the system because of the old fuel or some dirt. I would start at the intake and work my way back towards the tank because the filters and parts are cheaper and the access is better.

If my aging memory serves me correctly, there is a filter in the throttle body where the fuel line attaches. Unscrew the fitting and look in there for a small cartridge-type filter. Those tend to get clogged on GM products fairly regularly.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:05 PM   #25
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Using the generator to drain the fuel tank.

I'm getting ready to drop the fuel tank, but a full 90 gallon tank is just to much for me to drop. I could try to transfer the fuel but I thought I might try a different way. I decided to use the generator to drain the tank, the RV has only 38K miles on it and the generator has less then 26 hours on it. I changed the oil & filter on the generator. Two days ago I started it and for 2 days, Daytime only I have ran it all day. I also noticed if I turned on all the lights, TV & AC. The generator runs a little faster burning more fuel. A total of 3 days now! It runs perfectly proving that the remaining gas in the tank is OK. The fuel tank now reads 3/4's full. In about a week or so I should run the fuel tank dry. Then I will drop the tank, remove the old pump & clean the tank.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:32 PM   #26
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You will only be able to run it down to about 25% as I think the safety will cut it off at that time.
This is so you still have enough gas to get to a place to fill up.
Good luck with the unit. I know we enjoy out PA alot
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:01 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HavocSun View Post
I'm getting ready to drop the fuel tank, but a full 90 gallon tank is just to much for me to drop. I could try to transfer the fuel but I thought I might try a different way. I decided to use the generator to drain the tank, the RV has only 38K miles on it and the generator has less then 26 hours on it. I changed the oil & filter on the generator. Two days ago I started it and for 2 days, Daytime only I have ran it all day. I also noticed if I turned on all the lights, TV & AC. The generator runs a little faster burning more fuel. A total of 3 days now! It runs perfectly proving that the remaining gas in the tank is OK. The fuel tank now reads 3/4's full. In about a week or so I should run the fuel tank dry. Then I will drop the tank, remove the old pump & clean the tank.
Do yourself a favor and take a picture of all the fuel hose connections at the top of the tank before you disconnect them. You will want to make darn sure that you hook up the pickup for the generator to the correct line on the tank. Don't ask me how I know cause it brings back bad memories.

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Old 05-08-2015, 01:04 PM   #28
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Pace Arrow Update

Let me start by saying thank you all for your great information. I did as the majority suggested. I drained as much of the fuel as I could. Then I dropped the tank. I removed the pump & fuel mesh filter assembly. I think this was my problem, the mesh filter was in-cased in a gue like substance that had made the filter almost impossible to blow air threw. Amazingly enough the fuel tank look really clean inside, I wonder if adding the gallon of Seafoam help to clean the tank. I rinsed it out really well with some fuel tank cleaning agents anyway. Purchased a new mesh fuel filter, fuel pump & fuel, put it all back together. I went to start it. 1st time it spun over coughed a few times, but no go. The 2nd time I kept the ignition switch on longer before I turned the key to engage the engine, pumped the pedal a little & tried again. It coughed a few more times, slight back fire & VROOM! It started!!! Its been a few days now, I was able to move her to its new location, The engine runs strong. The transmission seemed to shift & hold as it should. But OMG the ride felt like I was driving across cobble stones! I'm sure it had to do with the tires being stuck in a low or flat position going on 5 years. After a few miles that problem started to go away. When I made it to my destination it was pretty much gone. I've started it every morning since then, starts 1st time, every time! And I hear absolutely no Knocks, Clicks or Taps. When I rev it I do hear belts slipping, so I'm going to replace them all. I was able to register it complete with change of title for $253! I talked them into waiving over $500 in fees!! I'm set to get it smogged in a few days. I hope it passes. As always I will keep you updated if you guys like. Maybe upload a video to YouTube soon. Again thanks so much for all the help. I don't think I could have done this without all the great feedback I got. My 1990 fleetwood Pace Arrow is on the road again!!!
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