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Old 06-03-2017, 06:26 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 24
1994 Ford oil cooler

I have a 1994 National Dolphin with a Ford 460 engine. Needed to replace my coolant hoses as some have pin hole leaks. For those of you who know anything about the 460 may know that the bottom hose coming from the water pump to the oil cooler can be a real bear to replace, and for those who do not, hold on to your hat. I tried replacing my first hose by leaving the oil cooler on due to the looks of the two bolts that attach it to the oil filter assemble. After hours of attempting even greasing the insides of both ends I destroyed the hose. I came so close several times but no cigar. Ordered another hose. This left me no choice but to remove the cooler. You can't take the whole assemble off because the big bolt that goes in the block will not back all the out because it hits the chassis. I've seen on the Ford 250 trucks that ford has a hole cut in the frame so you and put your socket through and remove it. So much for the motor homes. At any rate. The bolt closest to the water pump holding the cooler crumbed in pieces as I ever so slightly tried backing it out. That made for a real bad day! I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they were able to re-bore and re-thread it for me. Meaning, that the machinist bored out what was left of the broken bolt and then bored a 3/8 hole then threaded that. Once he put the new 3/8 bolt in with tread lock then he cut that down flush with mount. Then he bored a new hole in the 3/8 bolt the size of the original hole. So all that being done I was ready to go back to what I had set out to do originally, put a small coolant hose on. I would strongly encourage replacing the two small o-rings, 13/16 x 11/16 x 1/16, Ace Hareware. Again, I greased the inside ends of the hose and put the one end on the cooler and then maneuvered the other end to the water pump side. I greased the ends because you need to be able to move the cooler back and forth without disturbing the o-rings to line up the bolt holes. The cooler has to be completely flat for the treads to start. Greasing allows the cooler to move easier with the two ends of that hose being attached. I started with the bolt closest to the small hose. Threaded it down a few treads to help hold it in place and then went to the other side. After tightening them both down I then secured my hose clamps. I've done this twice and have to say it was much easier the second time. Isn't that always the case.

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Old 06-03-2017, 08:29 PM   #2
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Yep love working on the old ford. Glad I moved on at least my knuckles have healed up some. Have you had to change the fan clutch or waterpump yet?

2003 Bounder 38N
5.9 Cummins 3000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
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Old 06-04-2017, 01:15 PM   #3
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Join Date: May 2016
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No, and I hope and pray I don't ever have too. But they are machines and things do good bad. Like my body after laying under that beast for hours. I can't imagine. What do you do, take the front of the motor home off. I know there's coolers and the radiator there before you could ever it to those.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:58 PM   #4
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If you ever have to change the cooler to pump hose again. Cut off old hose, loosen the oil cooler bolt and turn cool as far as possible. Grease the new hose, fold hose in the center, start hose on both nipples, tap hose on with a hammer handle. I've done several that way, with success.

95 Bounder F53
460/528 stroker
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:11 AM   #5
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Name:	o-ring.jpg
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ID:	164103Richard,

I did cut the old one off. What I didn't mention in my post was, I didn't replace the o-rings the first go around. BIG mistake. This is why I said, I strongly encourage replacing them in my post. It showed no sign of leaks until I had four hundred miles on it. Luckily, those miles were put on here were I live rather than on the road away from home.

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Old 06-05-2017, 06:35 AM   #6
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Name:	oil cooler.jpg
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ID:	164106This one isn't mine but identical to mine. Two bolts with two o-rings.

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