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Old 04-21-2016, 11:39 AM   #1
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1994 Monaco with 6 sp. Allison do not shift light stays on

Hi all:

Been awhile since I have been on the forum. Need help. I replaced the chassis battery in my 94 Monaco, thinking at 6 years old the battery was bad, because it wouldn't crank. Well, new battery and same problem. Did get it started after turning the key off and on until it took. Now, when it is running, I see the shifting pad N displays will blink off and on until it finally goes black, after a few seconds. The "Do not shift light" indicator never goes off. Turning the key to "ON" position gets the same results. I took the pad out and reconnected the 2 main plug ins and still the same results. Been working on the ground cables from the battery to the starter and the frame ground cable to the starter. Still the same results. I am lost for now and I know the only way I will find the problem is from this forum. Thank you for any help.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:07 PM   #2
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Most of the info I have is on newer Allison electronic controls ( WETC III)World Electronic Transmission Control system 3 .
I believe your coach has WETC II , but I'll add a file and photo, the file is how to get trouble codes out of the system the photo is of a WETC II control box , showing an internal 10 amp fuse that may or may not , be your problem.
As for your no crank , without repeated cycling of the key, several possibilities,
1, trans controller not giving proper " neutral sense " signal to the starter relay.
2, defective starter relay. I've replaced two in 5 years on my coach.
3, internal problems in the starter solenoid , on the starter , there are internal contacts that wear out from repeated starts.
Question . When you cycle the key do you hear any clicking , when the engine doesn't crank over.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:08 PM   #3
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Contact this guy: Transmission Instruments
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Most of the info I have is on newer Allison electronic controls ( WETC III)World Electronic Transmission Control system 3 .
I believe your coach has WETC II , but I'll add a file and photo, the file is how to get trouble codes out of the system the photo is of a WETC II control box , showing an internal 10 amp fuse that may or may not , be your problem.
As for your no crank , without repeated cycling of the key, several possibilities,
1, trans controller not giving proper " neutral sense " signal to the starter relay.
2, defective starter relay. I've replaced two in 5 years on my coach.
3, internal problems in the starter solenoid , on the starter , there are internal contacts that wear out from repeated starts.
Question . When you cycle the key do you hear any clicking , when the engine doesn't crank over.

Thanks for fast reply.
1. I do hear a clicking sound that is up near the driver side area down a little lower then the instrument panel.

2. Defective starter relay. Never replaced that I know of. Even when engine is running would that have anything to do with the flickering, going blank shift display?

3. Thanks for the file photo of the WETC II. Where would I find mine? That makes sense about the trans controller not giving "neutral sense" to the starter relay. I sure don't know anything about it though.
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:49 PM   #5
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Contact this guy: Transmission Instruments
Thank you for the info. If worse comes to worse I will have to go that route.
Any idea how often these go bad?
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:58 PM   #6
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I had the same issue, when I turned the key to the start position I heard clicking under the dash. The bad connection turned out to be on the forward bulkhead under the bed. See my thread about it.

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Old 04-22-2016, 10:30 AM   #7
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I had the same issue, when I turned the key to the start position I heard clicking under the dash. The bad connection turned out to be on the forward bulkhead under the bed. See my thread about it.

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Thanks Dan. I may have solved the problem. Not exactly sure why things are working OK. Knock on wood. Cleaned all the grounds from the battery and reattached all the cables to the battery. Started up and running fine with no blinking read-out on shift pad and it starts every time with no hiccups. Seem like when this rig sits for a few months with no use, issues begin to surface.
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:11 PM   #8
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Thanks Dan. I may have solved the problem. Not exactly sure why things are working OK. Knock on wood. Cleaned all the grounds from the battery and reattached all the cables to the battery. Started up and running fine with no blinking read-out on shift pad and it starts every time with no hiccups. Seem like when this rig sits for a few months with no use, issues begin to surface.
You are correct sir, any kind of vehicle that sits ends up with a fair share of issues. Especially boats and RV's
Glad you found the issue so quickly.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:35 AM   #9
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Shifting pad problems

Well, back to square one sort of. Been going out everyday and starting the motor-home with no problems with shifting pad or ignition cranking the engine. This morning is another story. I had to turn the key off and on 3 or 4 times for it to crank and there was no indicators pad lights blinking on and off. Just a blank shift indicator. When it would crank there was a clicking in the bay area in the outside drivers side compartment. There is a solenoid looking relay with wire post inputs and outputs. I think this is the problem, but would like to verify with members before I go out and purchase another one. I will disconnect the wires and clean the the posts and connectors. Have not done a thing yet. Will report back later with results.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:01 AM   #10
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It sounds like a dead starting battery. I think you've killed it by starting the engine every day and not letting it run long enough to put back the amount of charge it took to start. Try putting a stand alone battery charger on the chassis and let it charge for 24 hours, then see if you can start and run the coach normally
The chattering relay is a classic symptom of low voltage.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:08 AM   #11
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Qdup
It sounds like a dead starting battery. I think you've killed it by starting the engine every day and not letting it run long enough to put back the amount of charge it took to start. Try putting a stand alone battery charger on the chassis and let it charge for 24 hours, then see if you can start and run the coach normally
The chattering relay is a classic symptom of low voltage.
The battery is a full charge and new. Its one of those huge commercial batteries from NAPA. When it does decide to crank it cranks fast and starts immediately. Guess the old battery I replaced was OK? The culprit isn't the relay either, thinking it may have been the problem. Guess I need to trace all the wries back to the source again and clean and make sure all the connectors are tight. Done this procedure about 3 times now, so really don't know what else to try.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:18 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by qdup View Post
Hi all:

Been awhile since I have been on the forum. Need help. I replaced the chassis battery in my 94 Monaco, thinking at 6 years old the battery was bad, because it wouldn't crank. Well, new battery and same problem. Did get it started after turning the key off and on until it took. Now, when it is running, I see the shifting pad N displays will blink off and on until it finally goes black, after a few seconds. The "Do not shift light" indicator never goes off. Turning the key to "ON" position gets the same results. I took the pad out and reconnected the 2 main plug ins and still the same results. Been working on the ground cables from the battery to the starter and the frame ground cable to the starter. Still the same results. I am lost for now and I know the only way I will find the problem is from this forum. Thank you for any help.
Sounds like an intermittant version of a problem I had.

Shift console was dark, ignition fuses were dark, no cranking of engine.

I accidentally cheated the ground after replacing the "ignition relay" in my chassis fuse box area. Everything worked.

So if you can find your ignition (not starter) relay, try running a new ground wire from that relay to a new ground point.

It worked for me. (I never did discover where that relay was originally grounded and now I have a spare ignition relay).
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #13
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The battery is a full charge and new. Its one of those huge commercial batteries from NAPA. When it does decide to crank it cranks fast and starts immediately. Guess the old battery I replaced was OK? The culprit isn't the relay either, thinking it may have been the problem. Guess I need to trace all the wries back to the source again and clean and make sure all the connectors are tight. Done this procedure about 3 times now, so really don't know what else to try.
Just wondering if it could possibly be the ignition switch or something up in the ignition switch area? Sometimes when I do turn the key to the on position the shift indicator pad read out blinks for a second or two. When the engine is running there is no shift indicator readout and the do not shift light remains lite.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:28 PM   #14
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Sounds like an intermittant version of a problem I had.

Shift console was dark, ignition fuses were dark, no cranking of engine.

I accidentally cheated the ground after replacing the "ignition relay" in my chassis fuse box area. Everything worked.

So if you can find your ignition (not starter) relay, try running a new ground wire from that relay to a new ground point.

It worked for me. (I never did discover where that relay was originally grounded and now I have a spare ignition relay).

Deantec, thanks for you help. Is the relay in the picture the ignition relay? I thought it was. It just seems like it is some ground issue someplace. It is funny though that this all started when I replaced the chassis battery. Maybe just a coincidence. I will try a new ground for the relay. I see now that just because the engine starts sometimes, that it does not effect the readout on the shift pad. Learning a tiny bit about all this, but have a long way to go. Getting desperate, because we just found out we have a job in Idaho and need to be there next with the motor home.
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