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Old 02-22-2014, 11:47 AM   #15
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May I ask a question Please, I tried many times last summer to get that Anode out and I could not get it to budge at all? I used WD40 and Deep Creep spray. Still stuck

FYI, the water heater works great. I am just worried that it might be 32 years old is all. How can/or use to get it out to check it?
It looks like the one in (al2ride) post.


boverton;
Didn't mean to hijack your post, but it seems there are some water heater specialists here. Sorry.
Thankyou, tb
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz View Post
May I ask a question Please, I tried many times last summer to get that Anode out and I could not get it to budge at all? I used WD40 and Deep Creep spray. Still stuck

FYI, the water heater works great. I am just worried that it might be 32 years old is all. How can/or use to get it out to check it?
It looks like the one in (al2ride) post.


boverton;
Didn't mean to hijack your post, but it seems there are some water heater specialists here. Sorry.
Thankyou, tb
Well, if you haven't been able to get it out, who knows how long it's been there. It's probably gone and no sacrificial lamp action and your WH could be close to being damaged. I always put Teflon tape on the threads so that it could easily be removed the next time. To get a stuck one out it's tuff but can be done. It's sound like you have already tried penetrating oils to no avail. I would keep soaking it with PB blaster...maybe make some jig that allows the area to be soaked. I would then hit the anode with a hammer...carefully...because that will help loosen up the corrosion. Last but not least you could use heat. It will come off. I had to help a friend with his and we got it off. After you get it off spray the inside of the tank as much as possible. They sell a spraying nozzle with a bent tip specifically for that purpose. I would also clean the threads on the tank. Get a new anode, put some Teflon tape and you are done. Let us know how it goes.
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Old 02-22-2014, 01:08 PM   #17
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Great will do Thanks, I love this site.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:22 PM   #18
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Pulled check valve out and it seems ok. Not a lot of lime. Spring moved ok. Could blow air through it with the spring depressed. Could still be bad?
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:59 AM   #19
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Pulled check valve out and it seems ok. Not a lot of lime. Spring moved ok. Could blow air through it with the spring depressed. Could still be bad?
Can you leave the check valve out and try it? If it works, the valve is bad.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:14 AM   #20
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Can you leave the check valve out and try it? If it works, the valve is bad.
+1 and remember that there are two check valves.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:22 AM   #21
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Do you have an outside shower? If so, check to make sure the valves on that are closed. Often times when winterizing or just releasing pressure to remove your supply hose, the valves get left opening and the valve on the shower head is closed. If so, this will allow the cold water to bypass here and you will get either all cold or barely warm water throughout the rest if the coach.
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:18 PM   #22
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Curious as I may have missed it, are you hooked to city water or the water tank? It also makes (generally) a difference in the position of the city water fill valve.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:12 PM   #23
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1994 Brave - Water heater

I am at the Daytona 500. I am using the onboard water tank. The cold water pressure is perfect at all faucets. The hot water is all but a trickle. I pulled the top check valve out and it seemed to have some lime build up. I was able to move the spring on the valve and blow are through it with the spring depressed. Put the valve back with same results. Just wondering if valve could still be the issue. I am home today and will try to see if water comes out without the valve in. I will follow up tomorrow. Thanks so far for all the help.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:37 PM   #24
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We have an Attwood 10 gal. HWH. It only has one hot water outlet and in that line there is a check valve located very close to the water heater. The guts of the check valve is made of plastic and the housing that holds the valve was cracked and would not allow the hot water into the system. I had to pull out the water heater from the outside to break loose the valve fitting(couldn't get leverage). We were traveling at the time, so I just removed the broken guts, then we had good hot water pressure. It was explained to me that the only reason that valve is there is that when you winterize the system, the check valve doesn't allow antifreeze into the tank with the bypass valve closed.

Because we don't intend on any cold weather camping, I've not ordered a new check valve...maybe some day.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:47 PM   #25
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BTW, after you clean out the water heater and you've changed the anode and check valve, you might want to take the faucet screens out and turn on the hot water to clean out any debris that might be in the lines from the maintenance you've done... same with the shower head.
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