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Old 09-07-2014, 07:25 PM   #1
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1995 Triple E in dash air conditioning has stopped working, need wiring diagram.

Can anyone help, I am looking for wiring diagram for a 1995 Triple E Embassy A31 motor home on a Ford F53 Super Duty chassis.

The in dash air conditioning has stopped working, the compressor clutch is not engaging, there are two wires going to the compressor one of the wires reads 0.23V DC and the second wire reads 0.03V DC.

I've taken the motor home to a local repair shop and they said they couldn't get a reading of the freon level and said it might be empty and also said they did not have a wiring diagram to check it any further.

I bought one of those DIY freon bottles and tried to add freon myself but never could get the compressor clutch to engage and the dial on the bottle was all over the place from green (add) to blue (full) to red (warning) and back, the dial would read differently with each press of the bottles button.

I've called the nearest Ford dealership/repair shop to get a wiring diagram and they said they no longer have those available in any print and only have those diagrams on their computers only. They told me to do a search on line. I went to motorcraftservice dot com and they are talking something about a subscription, I just want a diagram why would I need to subscribe to something ??? very confusing.

I have a Motor home Chassis Service Guide by Ford Technical Publications Department a Ford Customer Service Division but it doesn't have any of the information I need, the only electrical information it has is about starting, ignition, battery and electrical distribution (fuse, relays and diodes)

Need:
Wiring schematic/diagram and Vacuum diagram
or
Wiring Diagram Manual (also referred to as EVTMs or Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals)

For:
1995 Ford
Triple E Embassy A31 Canada ltd. Coach
Ford F53 Super Duty 460 V8 (7.5 L) Chassis
Class A Motor home
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:53 PM   #2
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As I recall from working on mine - the a/c clutch is just an "electro-magnet" where one wire is grounded to chassis and the other goes in series through a low freon pressure switch which then goes to the dashboard control.

Find the refrigerate line pressure switch and see if it has 12volts + on one side with your ac on and the engine running.

Or you can temporarily(for a few seconds) put a jumper between the two pins of the switch and if your a/c clutch engages the you have low refrigerate.

Hope this helps
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:55 PM   #3
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Hi B Trevathan and Welcome to the Forum.

I think Bob is on the right track. Low refrigerant is the likely suspect here.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:22 PM   #4
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the trainguy is right on with his advice. You really don't need a wiring diagram, they are almost all alike. As Bob said, check voltage at low pressure switch. If it doesn't flow past that point, you are most likely low on coolant. I'm puzzled why the shop couldn't get a reading on coolant level, even if the compressor isn't working there should be some pressure in the system. If there is some coolant and lube oil in the system, you could use a jumper wire directly from (+) of the battery to the electric clutch to get the compressor spinning so you could add coolant. I'd not use a single port gauge/can from a discount auto to charge, you should have a complete A/C manifold system that can monitor low and high pressures as it's being added.

If the system is completely empty, the leak should be tracked down and repaired. Then a vacuum pump should be hooked up to empty the system and then proper oil and R134a added. Your receiver/dryer might also need replacing if the system has been open. (R134a is not freon, that'a a name for a specific product from Dupont)
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:04 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies.

How can I tell what the electrical components are and tell the difference from a low, medium or high pressure switch?

This unit has an expansion valve so the low pressure switch can be located on the high pressure side.

I see three electrical components in one small area and all on the high pressure side:
First coming from the dash area I have two wires that goes to a component that has four wires coming out of it, two if these wires run to a connection that is not plugged into anything, my guess this connection is for a optional condenser fan if one was needed. The component is next to the Filter Drier Receiver and in between the condenser and another cooler (may for oil or transmission), so its very hard to get to. I guess it is a trinary switch.
Second and third components are nearby and are located between the condenser and the compressor, these two components are about four inch apart and both have two wires coming out of them and go into a large trunk of wires.

The only component that had continuity was the one closest to compressor and has two wires coming out of it, it is the first one on the high pressure side between the compressor and the condenser. I am guessing it is a low pressure switch and because it has continuity doesn't that mean the system is not empty?

I need a wiring schematic/diagram so I can tell what is going to what, I see all these wires going into big trunks of wires and feel clueless about how everything is routed.
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:21 PM   #6
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The low pressure switch is located on top of the accumulator(receiver/dryer), which looks like a can with a couple of A/C hoses connected to it.

Yours might not look exactly like this, but you get the idea. In this photo, the wires aren't attached to the switch terminals.
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
The low pressure switch is located on top of the accumulator(receiver/dryer), which looks like a can with a couple of A/C hoses connected to it.

Yours might not look exactly like this, but you get the idea. In this photo, the wires aren't attached to the switch terminals.
This unit doesn't have an accumulator or a orifice tube, this is an older unit, it use a filter drier receiver and an expansion valve.:



This is the ternary switch:


This is what I am working on:
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:19 PM   #8
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I found this on another site:

"All circuitry upstream of the low pressure cycling switch (LPCS) will be provided by the Winnebago(RV) hardware.

Half-split the circuit by measuring for battery voltage at the purple wire at the LPCS when the A/C is supposed to be on. If absent, you'll have to consult Winnebago's service documentation to troubleshoot. If the voltage is there, the standard F53 schematics in the Ford manual applies."



Also googled "1995 Ford F53 A/C low pressure switch and came up with this pic which has a connector that looks like the one on your pic that you labeled "possible high pressure switch".








So check for 12VDC (in reference to ground) on the purple wire and report back.
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:02 PM   #9
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Also pull the plug off the lo pres switch(on left) and jumper the pins in the plug while engine is running with A/C on.


The low pressure switch is a "normally open" switch which stays closed in the presence of 22 psi or more of refrigerate pressure , basically closed all the time unless you have a catastrophic loss of freon.

The high pressure switch is "normally closed" and only opens when the refrigerate pressure exceeds a predetermined safe value ie:high head pressure such as a blocked/restricted high pressure line or plugged up condensor coil.

With that said , both switches should be closed and reading continuity in a normal operating state of condition.

The third switch is a "trinary" switch which controls the dash fan if I recall.
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