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Old 11-16-2019, 03:19 PM   #1
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1996 Damon Daybreak Water Heater Won't Stay On

We got the coach heater (furnace) working great but can't get the water heater to stay lit. The pilot lights when the switch is toggled, but the flame goes right back out. It may just be an adjustment issue or could it be something else. Since we're still learning this rig, I have no experience to rely on. We have propane and water in the tank, about 3/4 full. TIA.
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:59 PM   #2
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The pilot light must heat the thermocouple tip to stay on. Give it some more time (30 sec.) to heat up. If that doesn’t work, get a new thermocouple and install. Many hardware stores have them.
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:04 PM   #3
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remove the burner tube and gently clean out. You tube. How to clean WH burner. Or something on that order.
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Old 11-16-2019, 05:47 PM   #4
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If the 'flame' lights off when you toggle the switch you do NOT have a pilot flame....that IS the main flame




Spark Electrode does 2 things..provides the high voltage spark for ignition AND is used as pathway for 'flame proving' signal


Spark Electrode needs to be CLEAN...no soot/carbon ----clean with emery cloth
Spark Electrode needs to be 'engulfed' in flame when it lights off
Spark Electrode connection at circuit board needs to be CLEAN/TIGHT
Spark Electrode ceramic insulation can not be cracked




Flame Proving signal is a milliamp current generated by flame when it lights off....that milliamp current must be sensed by circuit board otherwise the DC to gas valve is dropped so raw fuel does not accumulate
All this takes place in the first 6-8 seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing/flame lighting off




More info........post Brand/Model of water heater
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:52 PM   #5
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Old Biscuit...has it right. Personal experience that cost me $265 for a new control board that when I worked on it myself showed that the flame sensing circuit connectors were loose and tightening them kept the flame on and steady.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alank View Post
The pilot light must heat the thermocouple tip to stay on. Give it some more time (30 sec.) to heat up. If that doesn’t work, get a new thermocouple and install. Many hardware stores have them.
Thank you. We'll look at that.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:17 AM   #7
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remove the burner tube and gently clean out. You tube. How to clean WH burner. Or something on that order.
Thank you - will try that!
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:29 AM   #8
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I know the WH is an Atwood. I'll try to find the model#.

Thank you for all of this information. I sent this to DH who now will know exactly where to check. It's the "how" of everything that keeps us constantly fixing!

Same issue with trying to run the fridge on propane, which we can work around for now because we can just run it off the generator when we're off shore power. Another mystery for another day.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
If the 'flame' lights off when you toggle the switch you do NOT have a pilot flame....that IS the main flame




Spark Electrode does 2 things..provides the high voltage spark for ignition AND is used as pathway for 'flame proving' signal


Spark Electrode needs to be CLEAN...no soot/carbon ----clean with emery cloth
Spark Electrode needs to be 'engulfed' in flame when it lights off
Spark Electrode connection at circuit board needs to be CLEAN/TIGHT
Spark Electrode ceramic insulation can not be cracked




Flame Proving signal is a milliamp current generated by flame when it lights off....that milliamp current must be sensed by circuit board otherwise the DC to gas valve is dropped so raw fuel does not accumulate
All this takes place in the first 6-8 seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing/flame lighting off




More info........post Brand/Model of water heater
The WH is an Atwood G6A-8E. A couple of times the red light on the wall switch stayed lit, but the flame had gone out per my DH who was standing outside freezing. I'm not sure what that means, but I did find the model and the tiny user's manual. He cleaned all the connections and checked everything was tight.

What next? I don't know.
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:35 PM   #10
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Problem Solved (We hope) with Atwood WH

My DH removed and bypassed the ECO switch, then put the meter to it and it showed an open circuit. After bypassing the ECO, the WH lights and stays lit🔥The water is hot hot hot! I ordered a new ECO thermostat kit so we can update that little section. I suspect we'll find a similar fixable issue with the fridge not working on LP.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and information!

We're getting closer to a camping be trip👍
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wwdnet View Post
The WH is an Atwood G6A-8E. A couple of times the red light on the wall switch stayed lit, but the flame had gone out per my DH who was standing outside freezing. I'm not sure what that means, but I did find the model and the tiny user's manual. He cleaned all the connections and checked everything was tight.

What next? I don't know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wwdnet View Post
My DH removed and bypassed the ECO switch, then put the meter to it and it showed an open circuit. After bypassing the ECO, the WH lights and stays lit��The water is hot hot hot! I ordered a new ECO thermostat kit so we can update that little section. I suspect we'll find a similar fixable issue with the fridge not working on LP.

Thanks to all of you for your advice and information!

We're getting closer to a camping be trip��

RED Light is a 'FAULT' indication
Comes on for 2 reasons
1) Flame does not PROVE it lite (flame rectification---goggle it)
2) ECO Opens




ECO is 'normally closed' ------should have continuity thru it
Opens at 180*F/Triggers FAULT Light


Only reason for ECO to Open is the T-stat FAILED to open (140*F)


Bypassing the ECO and water got HOT, HOT, HOT----no continuity---it NEEDS replaced and so does the T-stat

Make sure tank wall surface is clean before installing new set and that spade connectors fit tight onto the terminals
ECO has larger terminals then T-stat does so don't worry about which is which
RED wires to ECO
Brown wires to T-stat


Hot (controlled) water is GOOD!


As for fridge......
START with a routine cleaning of burner/orifice and spark electrode.....and wire connections
Orifice --- NO poking anything thru the little hole. IT is 'metered' and can be damaged



Brand/Model of fridge????
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Old 11-18-2019, 03:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
RED Light is a 'FAULT' indication
Comes on for 2 reasons
1) Flame does not PROVE it lite (flame rectification---goggle it)
2) ECO Opens




ECO is 'normally closed' ------should have continuity thru it
Opens at 180*F/Triggers FAULT Light


Only reason for ECO to Open is the T-stat FAILED to open (140*F)


Bypassing the ECO and water got HOT, HOT, HOT----no continuity---it NEEDS replaced and so does the T-stat

Make sure tank wall surface is clean before installing new set and that spade connectors fit tight onto the terminals
ECO has larger terminals then T-stat does so don't worry about which is which
RED wires to ECO
Brown wires to T-stat


Hot (controlled) water is GOOD!


As for fridge......
START with a routine cleaning of burner/orifice and spark electrode.....and wire connections
Orifice --- NO poking anything thru the little hole. IT is 'metered' and can be damaged



Brand/Model of fridge????
The fridge is a Norcold 6162. It is surprisingly cold on AC, for which I am very happy. I'll pass your message on to my DH. He was so pleased to get the WH to heat water that he buttoned everything up and decided to spend the last few hours of his 2-week "vacation" resting up to go back to work. I should have the ECO/thermostat replacements before his next day off and then we'll see if that solves the WH problem (safely and not by bypassing anything).

The extent to which this MH was neglected is disheartening, but slowly it's coming back to life. So much rigging to undo...

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It saved us a ton of time yesterday!
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Old 11-18-2019, 10:04 AM   #13
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Norcold 6162 fridge.......
Very little infomation/trubleshooting available


Here is one of the better manuals.......have to pay attention cause it 'repeats' but does have actual testing/circuit identification


Gas for fridge is fairly generic
Got gas, got DC Voltage, Got ignition, Got Flame etc
You said fridge cooled very well on AC so if you get gas system working it will cool very well also........usually just a good cleaning



Good luck!
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf
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Old 11-19-2019, 03:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Norcold 6162 fridge.......
Very little infomation/trubleshooting available


Here is one of the better manuals.......have to pay attention cause it 'repeats' but does have actual testing/circuit identification


Gas for fridge is fairly generic
Got gas, got DC Voltage, Got ignition, Got Flame etc
You said fridge cooled very well on AC so if you get gas system working it will cool very well also........usually just a good cleaning



Good luck!
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf
Thank you! I sent the manual to DH, who will now be able to troubleshoot more efficiently! As always, you and this forum are a wealth of information!

It will likely be a few days before he can get back to this, since he's now done "vacationing".
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