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11-16-2019, 02:19 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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1996 Damon Daybreak Water Heater Won't Stay On
We got the coach heater (furnace) working great but can't get the water heater to stay lit. The pilot lights when the switch is toggled, but the flame goes right back out. It may just be an adjustment issue or could it be something else. Since we're still learning this rig, I have no experience to rely on. We have propane and water in the tank, about 3/4 full. TIA.
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11-16-2019, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Rogers, AR
Posts: 2,623
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The pilot light must heat the thermocouple tip to stay on. Give it some more time (30 sec.) to heat up. If that doesn’t work, get a new thermocouple and install. Many hardware stores have them.
__________________
2019 Fleetwood Discovery LXE 40M w/2021 Equinox
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11-16-2019, 03:04 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,165
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remove the burner tube and gently clean out. You tube. How to clean WH burner. Or something on that order.
__________________
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323 BHS. Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale MA. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor homes.
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11-16-2019, 04:47 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,821
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If the 'flame' lights off when you toggle the switch you do NOT have a pilot flame....that IS the main flame
Spark Electrode does 2 things..provides the high voltage spark for ignition AND is used as pathway for 'flame proving' signal
Spark Electrode needs to be CLEAN...no soot/carbon ----clean with emery cloth
Spark Electrode needs to be 'engulfed' in flame when it lights off
Spark Electrode connection at circuit board needs to be CLEAN/TIGHT
Spark Electrode ceramic insulation can not be cracked
Flame Proving signal is a milliamp current generated by flame when it lights off....that milliamp current must be sensed by circuit board otherwise the DC to gas valve is dropped so raw fuel does not accumulate
All this takes place in the first 6-8 seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing/flame lighting off
More info........post Brand/Model of water heater
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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11-16-2019, 07:52 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,140
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Old Biscuit...has it right. Personal experience that cost me $265 for a new control board that when I worked on it myself showed that the flame sensing circuit connectors were loose and tightening them kept the flame on and steady.
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11-17-2019, 06:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alank
The pilot light must heat the thermocouple tip to stay on. Give it some more time (30 sec.) to heat up. If that doesn’t work, get a new thermocouple and install. Many hardware stores have them.
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Thank you. We'll look at that.
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11-17-2019, 06:17 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
remove the burner tube and gently clean out. You tube. How to clean WH burner. Or something on that order.
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Thank you - will try that!
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11-17-2019, 06:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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I know the WH is an Atwood. I'll try to find the model#.
Thank you for all of this information. I sent this to DH who now will know exactly where to check. It's the "how" of everything that keeps us constantly fixing!
Same issue with trying to run the fridge on propane, which we can work around for now because we can just run it off the generator when we're off shore power. Another mystery for another day.
__________________
2016 Thor Axis 25.2
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11-17-2019, 11:57 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
If the 'flame' lights off when you toggle the switch you do NOT have a pilot flame....that IS the main flame
Spark Electrode does 2 things..provides the high voltage spark for ignition AND is used as pathway for 'flame proving' signal
Spark Electrode needs to be CLEAN...no soot/carbon ----clean with emery cloth
Spark Electrode needs to be 'engulfed' in flame when it lights off
Spark Electrode connection at circuit board needs to be CLEAN/TIGHT
Spark Electrode ceramic insulation can not be cracked
Flame Proving signal is a milliamp current generated by flame when it lights off....that milliamp current must be sensed by circuit board otherwise the DC to gas valve is dropped so raw fuel does not accumulate
All this takes place in the first 6-8 seconds of gas valve opening/spark electrode firing/flame lighting off
More info........post Brand/Model of water heater
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The WH is an Atwood G6A-8E. A couple of times the red light on the wall switch stayed lit, but the flame had gone out per my DH who was standing outside freezing. I'm not sure what that means, but I did find the model and the tiny user's manual. He cleaned all the connections and checked everything was tight.
What next? I don't know.
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11-17-2019, 01:35 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Problem Solved (We hope) with Atwood WH
My DH removed and bypassed the ECO switch, then put the meter to it and it showed an open circuit. After bypassing the ECO, the WH lights and stays lit🔥The water is hot hot hot! I ordered a new ECO thermostat kit so we can update that little section. I suspect we'll find a similar fixable issue with the fridge not working on LP.
Thanks to all of you for your advice and information!
We're getting closer to a camping be trip👍
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11-17-2019, 04:13 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wwdnet
The WH is an Atwood G6A-8E. A couple of times the red light on the wall switch stayed lit, but the flame had gone out per my DH who was standing outside freezing. I'm not sure what that means, but I did find the model and the tiny user's manual. He cleaned all the connections and checked everything was tight.
What next? I don't know.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wwdnet
My DH removed and bypassed the ECO switch, then put the meter to it and it showed an open circuit. After bypassing the ECO, the WH lights and stays litThe water is hot hot hot! I ordered a new ECO thermostat kit so we can update that little section. I suspect we'll find a similar fixable issue with the fridge not working on LP.
Thanks to all of you for your advice and information!
We're getting closer to a camping be trip
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RED Light is a 'FAULT' indication
Comes on for 2 reasons
1) Flame does not PROVE it lite (flame rectification---goggle it)
2) ECO Opens
ECO is 'normally closed' ------should have continuity thru it
Opens at 180*F/Triggers FAULT Light
Only reason for ECO to Open is the T-stat FAILED to open (140*F)
Bypassing the ECO and water got HOT, HOT, HOT----no continuity---it NEEDS replaced and so does the T-stat
Make sure tank wall surface is clean before installing new set and that spade connectors fit tight onto the terminals
ECO has larger terminals then T-stat does so don't worry about which is which
RED wires to ECO
Brown wires to T-stat
Hot (controlled) water is GOOD!
As for fridge......
START with a routine cleaning of burner/orifice and spark electrode.....and wire connections
Orifice --- NO poking anything thru the little hole. IT is 'metered' and can be damaged
Brand/Model of fridge????
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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11-18-2019, 02:44 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
RED Light is a 'FAULT' indication
Comes on for 2 reasons
1) Flame does not PROVE it lite (flame rectification---goggle it)
2) ECO Opens
ECO is 'normally closed' ------should have continuity thru it
Opens at 180*F/Triggers FAULT Light
Only reason for ECO to Open is the T-stat FAILED to open (140*F)
Bypassing the ECO and water got HOT, HOT, HOT----no continuity---it NEEDS replaced and so does the T-stat
Make sure tank wall surface is clean before installing new set and that spade connectors fit tight onto the terminals
ECO has larger terminals then T-stat does so don't worry about which is which
RED wires to ECO
Brown wires to T-stat
Hot (controlled) water is GOOD!
As for fridge......
START with a routine cleaning of burner/orifice and spark electrode.....and wire connections
Orifice --- NO poking anything thru the little hole. IT is 'metered' and can be damaged
Brand/Model of fridge????
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The fridge is a Norcold 6162. It is surprisingly cold on AC, for which I am very happy. I'll pass your message on to my DH. He was so pleased to get the WH to heat water that he buttoned everything up and decided to spend the last few hours of his 2-week "vacation" resting up to go back to work. I should have the ECO/thermostat replacements before his next day off and then we'll see if that solves the WH problem (safely and not by bypassing anything).
The extent to which this MH was neglected is disheartening, but slowly it's coming back to life. So much rigging to undo...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It saved us a ton of time yesterday!
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11-18-2019, 09:04 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,821
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Norcold 6162 fridge.......
Very little infomation/trubleshooting available
Here is one of the better manuals.......have to pay attention cause it 'repeats' but does have actual testing/circuit identification
Gas for fridge is fairly generic
Got gas, got DC Voltage, Got ignition, Got Flame etc
You said fridge cooled very well on AC so if you get gas system working it will cool very well also........usually just a good cleaning
Good luck!
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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11-19-2019, 02:38 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
Norcold 6162 fridge.......
Very little infomation/trubleshooting available
Here is one of the better manuals.......have to pay attention cause it 'repeats' but does have actual testing/circuit identification
Gas for fridge is fairly generic
Got gas, got DC Voltage, Got ignition, Got Flame etc
You said fridge cooled very well on AC so if you get gas system working it will cool very well also........usually just a good cleaning
Good luck!
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf
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Thank you! I sent the manual to DH, who will now be able to troubleshoot more efficiently! As always, you and this forum are a wealth of information!
It will likely be a few days before he can get back to this, since he's now done "vacationing".
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