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Old 01-13-2011, 05:49 PM   #1
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1999 bounder p32 28t brakes overheat in traffic

I have an issue with my 99 bounder 28t 7.4l 17,000 miles p30/32 chassis,in stop and go traffic(very common in seattle area)after about 30 miles brakes will overheat brake fluid, will notice brake pedal getting soft and will feel like brakes dragging,first time this happened was after traffic cleared and then stopped ahead while at 60 mph,brake pedal went to floor and I barely missed rear ending a wall of cars by going onto shoulder.I flushed brake fluid thinking it had excessive moisture in it. I travelled 750 miles to ore, coast no issues,next week same scenerio in traffic brakes started to fade at the same spot as last time,I was thinking poss brake hose issue because it only happens with repetitve use in traffic but now wonder if it is related to the workhorse caliper issue,have lost confidence in the safety of my brakes any help would be great (sorry such long post)
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:44 AM   #2
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Hello and . We are glad to have you join us here and we look forward to reading of your adventures and experiences. I am sure you will enjoy the website and forums. Good luck, stay safe and keep us posted.
I am not an expert on chassis issues and will defer to those that are. I think a good large truck repair shop could also be helpful unless you want to do it yourself. Anyway, I hope you get it fixed and keep us posted.
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:56 AM   #3
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It sounds like the caliper(s) may not be releasing and the brakes are dragging which inturn over heats the brake fluid. Once the brake fluid boils the brakes fade and you end up not stopping. I know there was a recall on the P series chassis for brake problems, could your's be included ?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:02 AM   #4
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The recall does not include the P series chassis. I would make an educated guess that the slide pins on the calipers need to be cleaned and lubed with an anti-seaze product. Do a search for "slide pins" and I believe there will be plenty of discussion there. Good luck.
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:52 AM   #5
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thanks for your input ,yes I hope workhorse will step up and take care of this issue,I am a GM tech and know how sensitive they are to recalling their passenger cars for just about anything,I dont understand the disconnect when it comes to rv owners particularly with brake issues!
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:17 AM   #6
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The recall is for the W series workhorse chassis only. Workhorse purchased the entire line in 1999 and there is no longer any connection to GM. The recall has been underway since Sept. 17, 2010.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:37 AM   #7
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you may have a break pad that is ''draging'' some of the time. Sometimes they will ''stick'' and then come lose. If it happens again, look for a caliper that is way too hot to touch with your hand. Usually you can just ''sniff'' and you can smell it. Get it checked out NOW... You can get killed because of this problem. I had the same problem with a Cobra on a P30 chassis......

GET IT FIXED NOW..........
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:43 AM   #8
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Cool brakes overheat

I had simular problem with my 94 Southwind, Fix was brake hoses at fromt calipers, fluid would go into calipers but would not return to master cyclinder for up to 30 to 45 seconds, so in stop and go traffic brakes never completly released.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:56 AM   #9
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Thanks az bound, and Seajay, it was the right rear last time got very hot, also suspect poss brake hose having restriction but wanted input before I just replace parts I know of abs controllers causing this in some cases but this is a three channel abs system,not four so both rears would be affected ,then when I heard about the recent Bosch recall, it just made me want to find the cause if it is the calipers piston construction as in the W series this should be a safety recall in the older rigs, thanks for all your input this forum is GREAT!
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:34 PM   #10
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Get an IR thermometer

First, this needs to be fixed YESTERDAY, but one needs to fix what is broken instead of changig parts.

Get an IR thermometer, they are cheap and work real well for finding hot and cold spots for troubleshooting things like this.

Take your MH out on a country road and give it a few test stops or other tests to get thnings going.

Make stops and check temps with the thermometer, take some cardboard to place on the ground so you can get under the MH so you can check the brake area.

What you are looking for is anything that is "different", too hot or just cool indicate a problem, once you locate the areas causing problems then take it home, tear it apart and look for defects.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:13 PM   #11
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Since you mentioned it did the same thing a second time right at about the same place on another trip I'd really want to check the brake pedal push rod to the master cylinder clearance. A sticky caliper would be a random problem depending on brake usage for when it would act up however if the pedal rod is out of adjustment it would be like driving around with your foot on the brake allowing the brakes to be applied and getting warm, the warmer they get the more they apply until they're actually getting hot as if you went down a long steep grade riding them until they fail from the fluid boiling then as everything cools down they start working again.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhouser View Post
I have an issue with my 99 bounder 28t 7.4l 17,000 miles p30/32 chassis,in stop and go traffic(very common in seattle area)after about 30 miles brakes will overheat brake fluid, will notice brake pedal getting soft and will feel like brakes dragging
I agree to inspect calipers for overheating first, and check for any signs of brake fluid leakage. If that all looks ok I have seen master cylinders bypass internally when brake fluid is hot. Check under master cylinder at booster for signs of leakage/seepage, that is a sure sign the master is ready for replacement.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:16 AM   #13
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The P32 had a problem with the rubber brake hose swelling, at about 10 years of age. Chevy uses a 3 inch wide clamp in the middle of the hose. If the hose swells under the clamp, it will stop the flow of brake fluid, back to the master cylinder. this will cause the brakes to drag. To check this, jack up the motorhome, apply the brakes, release the brakes, then go outside and try to turn the wheel. If the wheel is locked up, change that hose. To double check this, you can loosen the bleed screw on the caliper. if brake fluid squirts out under pressure you have found your problem.
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