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Old 08-23-2016, 04:30 PM   #15
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Disregard the plug comment. That applies to 30amp/110v rig into a 30amp/240 (drier/welder outlet). Jumping to diesel adds some items different than gas. E.g. changing the coolant. Then dont be shocked when oil changes are in the neighborhood of 26qts vice 6qts.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Playtime III View Post
Disregard the plug comment. That applies to 30amp/110v rig into a 30amp/240 (drier/welder outlet)...
EDITED: Apologies, I had bad info.

Playtime is correct...
The risk for is those using a RV 30AMP cord (or 50Amp to 30Amp adapter) in a 3 prong 240 dryer/welder plug:
Click image for larger version

Name:	RV-Dryer_Outlets.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	85.9 KB
ID:	136912

Safe travels
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:02 PM   #17
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What I found really helpful was to get to the mfg website and download all the manuals for your year and model...
that way you can search as you need to instead of turning pages !

maintenance shouldn't be high on the priority list right now - get on Youtube for setup and shutdown steps... camp out in your driveway the first night... THEN learn the width and height of your house on wheels...
40 foot does not turn a corner like your car... put the outside tire on the very outside of the turn... and never 'cut' a corner - that's where most damage comes from...

the inside of a turn and the 'swing' of the tail...

good luck !

know how to flush the toilet yet ?!?
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:29 PM   #18
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I'm confused here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
EDITED: Apologies, I had bad info.

Playtime is correct...
The risk for is those using a RV 30AMP cord (or 50Amp to 30Amp adapter) in a 3 prong 240 dryer/welder plug:
Attachment 136912

Safe travels
So I'm confused or just slow. Electrical is my weak point. It looks like the lower drawing says that the L shaped is a dryer outlet and therefore be avoided. But then below that you said you should be ok with a L shape neutral which is the one one on top of the dryer connection above. So can you please clarify with a little more plain english what to avoid? Where would you run into this type of problem...at a Camp ground? Also, what if you have a 50 amp MH? Does the same apply there too?

thx
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:05 PM   #19
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Now the adventure begins ... welcome aboard!
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa View Post
So I'm confused or just slow. Electrical is my weak point. It looks like the lower drawing says that the L shaped is a dryer outlet and therefore be avoided. But then below that you said you should be ok with a L shape neutral which is the one one on top of the dryer connection above. So can you please clarify with a little more plain english what to avoid? Where would you run into this type of problem...at a Camp ground? Also, what if you have a 50 amp MH? Does the same apply there too?

thx
About the only time a problem could occur is if the receptacle was at someone's house where they just happened to run a 220 circuit for welder or something. At your house, don't be tempted to try and plug your Rv's cord into your dryer outlet. While problems with power delivery can occur at parks/campgrounds there's not much chance of ever plugging into the wrong outlet.

Don't focus on this, as the threat is almost non existent. Having said that, try to keep from using burnt looking and lose fitting receptacles at parks/campgrounds. These cause bad connections which build up heat that eventually causes problems. Also, before plugging in, be sure and turn the breaker off on the campground pedestal to keep arcing down. Plug in first, then turn on the breaker.
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:29 PM   #21
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I agree with redridge. If you have any warranty get in the rig, apply power, water ( city and on board) run everything repeatedly. If it rains look at your window sills, the corners of your slides. Reach under the slide where the wall and floor meet checking for water intrusion. If your frig is an Rv frig , run the frig on both ac and dc settings at 5 or 6 temp., In other words make sure it freezes and keep interior of the fridge 38 degrees or lower. Ice maker. Look under the sinks for leaks. Check out the roof , properly sealed, no holes.
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:30 PM   #22
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Have someone check for engine and transmission codes.
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
First RV is a BIG one?

OK...NEVER - NEVER - NEVER plug-in the shore power cord to a 240Volt outlet.

If you do this, your RV electrical system will be severely damaged.

Congrats and Safe Travels

I don't understand this post. A 50 amp RV pedestal is 50 amp @ 120/240. There are 2 hot legs @ 120. If the service is wired properly with the 2 hot legs 180 degrees out of phase with each other then testing with a multimeter with show 240 between the hot legs. I don't see any difference here. I agree that the old 3 prong 240 outlets with 2 hot legs and a neutral will cause major damage if used for a 30 amp 120 volt RV. Damage would also occur if a 50 amp RV were to plug into this outlet using a 30/50 adapter.
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Ownby View Post
I don't understand this post. A 50 amp RV pedestal is 50 amp @ 120/240. There are 2 hot legs @ 120. If the service is wired properly with the 2 hot legs 180 degrees out of phase with each other then testing with a multimeter with show 240 between the hot legs. I don't see any difference here. I agree that the old 3 prong 240 outlets with 2 hot legs and a neutral will cause major damage if used for a 30 amp 120 volt RV. Damage would also occur if a 50 amp RV were to plug into this outlet using a 30/50 adapter.
Steve and Playtime are correct.
My previous posts will be edited to avoid confusion.

I was given a diagram that showed the wiring for a 4 prong dryer/welder (240Volt) outlet with a different set-up than the RV style to achieve the series. That diagram was wrong...I just did my own research and discovered the error.

The previous reports of frying the RV system apparently were only the 3 prong dryer/welder outlets.

Apologies
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:36 PM   #25
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Thanks All!

Thanks everyone for the help! Yes, we got a big one right off the bat but we've had race car haulers and toters for years so the driving doesn't worry us nor does the actual mechanical side. I am more concerned about about things like checking the roof and all the electrical advice and making sure the "home" part of it stays in good shape We really appreciate it!! Leaving tomorrow for our first weekend trip with the kids (only an hour from home). Wish us luck!
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:10 AM   #26
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You are smart to check the roof. All roof types will have seams and seals up there.
It best to check and maintain these seams to prevent water entry.

When our coach was 8 years aged, I noticed some small cracking in the our caukling. I cleaned and resealed the joints with Dicor self leveling.

Best luck
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