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Old 10-03-2016, 06:02 PM   #29
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Not if they are in phase, you will need 2 separate circuits for proper phasing. My .02

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Old 10-04-2016, 08:00 AM   #30
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Yes you need to be careful.

You need to be certian to have BOTH L1 and L2 connections and this is very simple.

You just need the check with a voltmeter.

Look at the outlet and locate the smaller vertical contact.

This is the "hot" one.

Take one of your extension cords and plug it into your first selected outlet and place the other end near your second outlet.

Set your voltmeter to ac volts and range if not automatic to something that is above 250.

Place one lead from voltmeter into the hot side of the cord and the other into the hot side of the outlet.

If it reads 0 then one or both breakers may be tripped or both are on L1 or L2, if it reads 240 then you have what you need.

But you are limited to what capacity is available on each circuit so running an ac may be an issue.

Do this test ALWAYS!
Test the breakers by switching at the load center to verify which circuit yiu are plugged into.

Next with the breaker off verify nothing important is also connected...freezer is one example.

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Old 10-04-2016, 08:24 AM   #31
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Location: NW Arkansas
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Originally Posted by Kiawah View Post
No, as an electrical engineer....
You may say....but wait, the house and socket I'm plugging into is circa 1940 and doesn't have any grounded outlets or GFCI sockets, and I'd like to plug into it. Then you take your (and your spouse/kids) life into your own hands. Don't be a fool, the GFCI's are made to protect your life.
Question: Are you saying that all 50 AMP campground circuits are GFCI or are you saying that we are all foolishly taking our life in our own hands every time we plug in our RVs.

No, I am not an EE, but I know enough about electricity to know it's dangers and how to protect myself - way before GFCI became the standard for wet area applications.
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Old 10-04-2016, 12:08 PM   #32
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My friend tried something like what you're proposing. He got things a little mixed up and managed to get 220 v. on the 120 v. bus. He cooked a bunch of stuff but managed to get it going (with help) for something under $3000.

For what it's worth, the coaches that we have don't need and cannot use 220 v., so your electrician friend who insists that both inputs be wired to separate legs of the 220 v. just doesn't understand how rv's work. The advantage to using both legs is that the return current is actually the difference of the two legs, so it will be less if both legs have current draws. If you don't quite get this, just ignore it, but don't wire 220 volts to your 120 volt input!

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