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Old 07-05-2017, 01:42 PM   #15
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Great job, very nice!👍
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:46 PM   #16
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Can see the original layer under the new layer... the stabond contact adhesive is no joke... both surfaces have to be coated... wait about 10 minutes... coat them again... wait another 10 minutes and apply... once the two surfaces touch even in the slightest amount... it's stuck... done... finished... permanent... over... forever... can't remove it or even budge it... if it's in the wrong spot... too bad!

The Luan is 1/8" thick...

Overall I'm very impressed with the roof design and construction... it's super light weight and super strong once all of the layers are in place... and not too bad to repair after you spend a million hours trying to figure out how to do it... and what to use... and where to get it... etc...[emoji3]

Before the new rubber went down I used an orbital palm sander and fine grit over the entire roof... any wood fuzzies would show up under the rubber...

Wood filler in all the cracks and taped the seams...

The Dicor adhesive for the rubber went on like Elmer's school glue... used a paint roller to apply it... and a soft bristle push broom to work out the bubbles...
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:21 PM   #17
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Once the old filon outer skin was removed... I used it for a template to cut out the new layers...

On flat concrete I placed a cheap, thin, smooth fiber board from the local home improvement store... put the new Luan down... applied the contact adhesive to the new filon and Luan... stuck to two together and used a weighted roller to work it down... let it setup over night... laid the old damaged filon skin that was removed from the MH over it and used it for a template... marked it out... set the blade on my circular saw to the thickness of the two layers and made all the straight cuts on the ground... once I had it adhered to the MH I used a jigsaw to complete the rounded cuts and remove the window sections... was much easier that I thought it would be...

I regret not taking more pictures... I was in such a rush to finish I didn't have time... I was working under the impression that I had more time before our trip to South Florida fromTN... my wife tells me a week in advance when we have to be in Florida to see her parents or they won't be there... so... worked 48 hrs... two hour nap... worked 48 hours... washed it... checked the tire pressures... installed the entry door inside trim and cabinets and crashed out... she drove the first two hours of the trip... I woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed and took the helm... love my wife she's an amazing woman but she scares me behind the wheel of the MH...[emoji3]
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philswrench View Post
Holy cow , that is awesome !!!!!! You're very talented !!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerdutch View Post
Great job, very nice!👍
Thank you... it's not as hard as I expected... I wouldn't be scared to replace an entire wall... It can be done...

I was impressed with the construction and materials in the Georgie Boy... it has aluminum framing and Styrofoam insulation... I've seen a few high end MH'S that were wood framing and batten insulation...

One of the interesting things I learned... Styrofoam is a brand name... it's actually expanded polystyrene...

I went back with the extruded polystyrene insulation which is a little stronger, smoother surface and easier to work with... cuts better using a circular saw and jigsaw...
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:06 AM   #19
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Wow great job. I had to cut the floor in my fleetwood pace arrow to replace a fuel pump. I was impressed that it was steel frame with poly styrene insulation and luan floors.

You made my repairs look silly in comparison lol.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:42 AM   #20
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I am truly amazed and awed by folks like you who can actually DO things like this! A detailed and complex repair, done professionally and without even blinking before taking the project on!

I can't even imagine drilling a hole through the roof to run a cable through and doing it correctly without creating more problems than I'd be solving.

Great work! Would love to see pix of the final result!

best,

Dave
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:19 AM   #21
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Holy amazing cow,,, totally impressive. You need to open up a repair shop and people will come all of this country. That's really impressive. Thanks for sharing. I'll have to look at it again.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:00 AM   #22
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How much do you think you saved doing this work yourself?
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:24 AM   #23
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Awesome work man looks great.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:34 AM   #24
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Great job--that's an impressive repair.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:48 AM   #25
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How much do you think you saved doing this work yourself?
That's a tough question to answer...

I had three quotes on the roof... $5,500 to $7,500...

The wall repair I had one shop tell me they wouldn't touch it because they couldn't guarantee it not to leak afterwards... had two other local private individuals who said they could do it for approximately $2,500... but, they were going to peel the outside layer back and attempt to repair the inner wall... then reattach the outside skin... or just adhere the outer skin...

I couldn't see spending that much on the roof repair... when it's less that $2,000 for the materials... and I wasn't comfortable with what people were telling me about the wall repair enough to pay them to "attempt" a repair...

After removing the old roof and looking at the original assembly / build method I asked two major rv repair facilities advice on replacing it and they both said the same thing... about attaching new plywood on top of the existing with screws etc.. and after trying to explain to them how it was originally built... there is no way to do that with this application they didn't have an answer...

So, trying to answer your question I could have probably spent at least $10,000 on incorrect roof and wall repairs... and it cost me around $4,000 to do it correctly...

It's like any other project... I could have probably done it for $3,000 or less knowing what I know now... but I'm always interested in doing something correct vs. cost...

The little stuff got me... trim pieces for the exterior and basement doors were expensive... and had to pay freight charges on them because I wanted to use full length pieces to avoid joints... etc... and the industrial adhesive as well... had to pay freight... plus I special ordered way too much Robertson bit hardware... I could have saved money on the roof materials... the kit from rv supply/ repair / retail / big name store that I used was an expensive joke... I was under the impression that it was an all inclusive kit... nope just the rubber and less than half of the required sealants for twice the price even had to purchase the ac unit seals seperate...thanks a lot...

I'm very pleased with the results... the roof and wall both are like new and solid... the wall is bright white and doesn't match the rest of the wall but it is solid and water tight... it will look much better when I get the graphics installed... I'll probably end up painting the whole motorhome somewhere down the road... we like it... gonna try to keep enjoying it...

We have clocked over 3,000 miles on it and three camping trips since without any issues... even survived a hurricane in south Florida last fall which happened to be our first trip after the repairs and no leaks! Hallelujah!
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:34 AM   #26
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Excellent!
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:52 AM   #27
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"outside luan an filon attached"
What material did you use for the exterior of the wall? How did you seam the original side material with the new material?

I did some front end repairs to my Bounder.

I found some nice fiberglass 4x8 panel at Home Depot in the fencing / roofing area. They are white and are formed with dimples on the "outside" and smooth on the "inside".

I just roughed up the Outside and laminated it to pressure treat ply to rebuild my front fenders. The "inside" finish matches the original fiberglass pretty close. With paint, can't really tell the difference.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:51 AM   #28
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Great job!. Very professional-
I had a 2000 Georgie Boy Landau 36ft Dp. Bought new and it went back to the factory to replace all the walls and re-skin the roof. Georgie Boy had a problem with the sidewalls, during that period, which were vacuum bonded. The glue spray assembly would clog and miss sections which delaminated ( bubbled) over time. Landau was similar externally to CruiseMaster but the CM chassis and interior was upgraded. Landau sidewalls were fiberglas instead of Filon.
After factory repair, no problems for the next 15 years. I agree on GeorgieBoy construction. I had a 1990 CruiseMaster for 10 trouble free years that I traded on the Landau.
Info on sidewalls and roof.


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