Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-05-2015, 02:55 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Exclamation 2004 Itasca Sunrise Porpoising Problem

I recently purchased a 2004 Itasca Sunrise with Workhorse W22 Chassis. On my first trip I had two issues. 1) Even mild rises on the highways and especially bridges resulted in excessive porpoising. 2) When passed by large units (18 wheelers and large motor homes, it feels like I am being sucked right into their lanes when they initially start to pass.

I read somewhere that this year W22 had these issues and new shocks helped. Can someone verify that is an initial step in fixing my problems. What would help the pulling effect from the larger units?

Thanks in advance.
R/Chuck
__________________

__________________
estrang is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-05-2015, 03:39 PM   #2
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 3,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by estrang View Post
I recently purchased a 2004 Itasca Sunrise with Workhorse W22 Chassis. On my first trip I had two issues. 1) Even mild rises on the highways and especially bridges resulted in excessive porpoising. 2) When passed by large units (18 wheelers and large motor homes, it feels like I am being sucked right into their lanes when they initially start to pass.

I read somewhere that this year W22 had these issues and new shocks helped. Can someone verify that is an initial step in fixing my problems. What would help the pulling effect from the larger units?

Thanks in advance.
R/Chuck
if you go with the new bilstiens,, it will help with that....

suggest you get it weighed first though
__________________

__________________
LVRVLUVR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 09:59 AM   #3
Member
 
Pekenoe's Avatar
 
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 52
New shocks and look into a sway / stabilizer bar for the rear as well for the porpoising. I assume you are not towing a trailer? If you are towing a trailer then equalizer bars will nearly eliminate the problem.

The problem with being sucked into the other lanes stems from the large volumn of air being pushed sideways from the passer and blowing your rear away from them twisting your front towards them... not fun. Again, if towing, an anti sway bar. If not there is not really much you can do, there is some evidence that the application of vortex generators on your trailing edges help. I did talk to a gentleman that had them on his fifth wheel and he did acknowledge that they helped a lot, whether they will help on a single unit not sure. Air tab is one manufacturer, 3m another.
__________________
Pekenoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 10:04 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
530ktm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 1,391
When you mention porpoising that sounds like your shocks are worn out and perhaps you have too much weight in the back. More details are really needed to try and help with this.
__________________
2014 Itasca Sunova 33C towing a Jeep JK Wrangler
530ktm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 10:13 AM   #5
Community Administrator
 
Clifftall's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 29,118
Here's a link to previous threads that may assist.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Porp...com&gws_rd=ssl
__________________


Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
Clifftall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 02:35 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
ChasA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 1,857
Yep, new Bilsteins all around and a really big Helwig anti-sway bar on the rear. You won't believe the difference.
__________________
2010 Winnebago Journey Express 34Y
2010 Freightliner XCS (mfd 9/'09)
'07 Saturn Vue V6
ChasA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 04:22 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Palisade CO
Posts: 3,562
Even if the shocks are good the ride is bus like and in certain conditions – concrete roads and approaches to and exits from bridges on these roads - you get a large excursion down that can be disconcerting. It rebounds back a little above the zero line and then back to zero. Some people have interpreted this as porpoising but I don’t agree. The suspension does not seem to be under damped but rather is critically damped which is what you want. The large excursion is a result of the engineers trying to give you a bus like ride.
Bilstein or Koni shocks will eliminate the issue but (at least in my case) will result in a rougher ride. At about 50,000 miles I installed the Koni FSD shocks and the ride is terrible. If I knew then what I know now I would have gone with Monroe shocks.

Also if your chassis was made before 9/2/2003 (chassis not motor home - there will be a difference) you will have a 2 inch front stabilizer bar. My motor home is 2004 model year but is built on a 2003 chassis. This is common.

In September of 2003 WH changed to a 2.5 inch bar.
If your chassis has the 2 inch bar I would strongly recommend that you have the 2.5 inch bar installed. I did and it made a huge improvement in roll or side to side sway.

This is from an email I got from WH in 2005:

"The part number for the Front Stabilizer Bar with Brackets is: W0005643.

This bar was found to have an advantage over the original 2" bar, and was
put into regular production on 9/2/2003.

The installation is very straightforward. Remove 4 retaining nuts while
supporting bar, remove bar, hold new bar in position, re-install 4 retaining
nuts, and torque to specification. This procedure is NOT meant to replace
the service manual, but is a generalized procedure.

The upgraded stabilizer bar has been shown to provide the following
benefits:
1. Reduced Body Roll when cornering.
2. Reduced "rocking" when passed by or passing large vehicles.
3. Reduced "rocking" when traversing bumps on an angle."


The installation procedure is below- I did not raise the coach, just crawled under it:

Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (Front) (W20/W22)

Removal Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist
2. Remove the nuts and washers from the stabilizer shaft clamp and the right front leaf spring.
3. Remove the nuts and washers from the stabilizer shaft clamp and the left front leaf spring, and remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
4. Remove the clamps from the stabilizer shaft.
5. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer shaft.

Installation Procedure
1. Install the insulators to the stabilizer shaft.
2. Install the clamps to the stabilizer shaft.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices in the WCC Service Manual.

3. Install the washers and nuts to the stabilizer shaft clamp and the left front leaf spring.
4. Install the washers and nuts to the stabilizer shaft clamp and the right front leaf spring.

Tighten the stabilizer shaft clamp nuts to
373 Nm (275 lb ft).
5. Lower the vehicle.
__________________
Clay WA5NMR - Ex Snowbird - 1 year, Ex Full timer for 11 years - 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
Clay L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 05:30 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
jauguston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bellingham,WA
Posts: 973
Koni FSD.
__________________
2005 Sportscoach Elite 40' C-7 350 Cat w/MP-8
Suzuki Samurai toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel
800w solar system
jauguston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2015, 05:31 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
jauguston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bellingham,WA
Posts: 973
Koni FSD. Not Bilsteins. Koni cost more and there is a reason.
__________________

__________________
2005 Sportscoach Elite 40' C-7 350 Cat w/MP-8
Suzuki Samurai toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel
800w solar system
jauguston is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
itasca



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Attwood water heater problem in our 2004 Daybreak GeorgeH Thor Industries Owner's Forum 1 12-02-2014 04:55 PM
2004 Alpine Meritor Hydraulic Brake Booster leakage problem James Sinsel Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 5 02-09-2014 11:18 PM
Redneck 1993 Allegro Bay Diesel Pusher with electrical problem jcruce13 Class A Motorhome Discussions 7 10-09-2013 12:27 PM
thermostat problem '13 Itasca 35P thistlesmith Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 9 06-01-2013 04:39 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.