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Old 08-12-2016, 07:02 AM   #15
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another (terrible) thought comes to mind
noticed you have ducted air
could be construction cr@p clogging it up
(I know rv's are built to the highest standards on earth but every once in a while a bad one gets out......)


if that's the case, I think there is a way to divert all the cool air straight into the cabin
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:21 AM   #16
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Don't you just love the manufactures that build motor homes to look pretty so they sell but in reality there is no way a 13K unit is going to cool a 30' unit with slides when it is 98 outside. Sounds to me like it was engineered to sell not to work. The AC is putting out cold air, it's just not enough of it to keep it cool.


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Old 08-12-2016, 10:34 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the good responses guys. I have tried everything I can think of to solve what I think is an ac problem. I have turned the air off, washed and cleaned the filters (which weren't dirty but did it anyway), put the ac on the lowest setting of 55*, put it at 60*, 70* turned the fan on high, low, made sure the thermostat was set on automatic cooling and ect. with no more cooling results. I called the dealer and told them to put the ac on the work sheet for the 24th to check also along with the other warranty work they are going to do and he asked me if I had the thermostat set on auto only. On the camping trip we just had I was parked to an elderly man (heck he was just a few years older than me) that had a 36' motor home and he told me he had almost the same trouble until he resized the return air vents bigger as the smaller ones was restricting the air flow. Even though that may fix my problem I don't see how it would be possible to do because my return air is on the unit it self and his was separate from the roof unit. My son-n-law has a 30' travel trailer with two slides and his air condition will put ice sickles on your mustache. Heck I am having second thoughts on why I traded in a great travel trailer for this motor home. I mean the trailer was a 2007 30' Jacyo feather lite with just a 13K air condition and had just one slide and it would freeze you out even on the hottest day. It has never given me this kind of trouble all the years we had it but you know we always want to up grade what we have. We also thought it would be better for the grand-kids being able to go to the bathroom, eat and get a drink on the go instead of stopping so many times on the road. Oh well we'll see what happens on the 24th of this month.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:44 AM   #18
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We have an Thor ACE 29.3. Came with one 15k AC. About the same results as yours in 100 degree conditions. Ours was ducted or dump, depending on how you set the "chill grill" louvers at the ceiling.

Our 15k unit had discharge air about 18 degrees lower than intake air, measured with pencil thermometer. Would lower inside temp of RV about 10-12 degrees depending on outside temps, shade, etc.

Some leaks and obstructions in plenum. Removed grill, reworked plenum dam and plenum to duct transitions. Air flow was improved and less noise. Cooling results were unchanged.

Insulated the underside of the cockpit area floor. Added insulation to the top of front cap.

Added second AC to rear fan opening. 11k Coleman Power Saver. Believe I will get about a 20 degree drop now as opposed to 10-12. Have only operated while parked at my house so far.4k generator runs both at about 74% of full load. Added separate cord to power AC when at a campground.

Will cut and paste another thread post with details.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:48 AM   #19
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Just finished adding an 11k BTU Power Saver AC to the rear fan opening.
Amp draw, 23.5 with both ac's running and everything else off or on gas. 24.5 with both ac's and converter on. Uses about 74% of the generator's full load. Both ac's start easily and do not stall the generator.

Have not finished the final power connection yet. Have it hooked temporarily into distribution panel under bed. Have ordered 2 contactors and installed a toggle switch between the two. One contactor will supply power from the distribution panel the other from a cord in the power bay. Will allow me to get shore power for the additional ac from a 120v outlet when available and leave the 30 amp for the rest of the rv. May make an adapter so I can plug the 120 volt cord and 30 amp cord into a 50 amp outlet.

The original 15k BTU ac would pull temp down about 10 degrees below outside temp. Today, with both units running resulted in a 15 degree pull down. I think it would have managed 17 degrees if I left it running long enough. We will be happy with 15 degree pull down, 100 degrees to 85 is tolerable for us. If we are driving and running dash air, we should get 20+/- degree pull down.

Cost was about $850 for parts. Ran the wire through the ceiling using the same chase as the fan wire, through the overhead cab, down the bath wall through wire mold, through the base cab, into the bed compartment. Running the wire was the hardest part. AC install is a breeze once it is on the roof.
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:52 AM   #20
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I found some places for improvement of air flow to ducts. Air flow was improved after doing some sealing. If your plenum is good, you may have trash or some kind of duct blockage. Remove a ceiling outlet at each end of each duct, put a light in one end and use a small mirror to look down the duct from the other end. Should be unobstructed straight shot.

After reworking plenum area the flow was improved some and operation was some quieter.


Some pics of tape job and partition placement:

As received from factory:



Red and Blue arrows show blockage of supply duct by the partition. Yellow arrows show where I bridged the gaps from plenum to foam ceiling board with foil tape.

Tape job:





Finished overview:

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Old 08-13-2016, 03:54 AM   #21
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Could not say if this is the best way. It is one way. This is a 29.3 so may not help you much.

Was able to "fish" the wire through the ceiling using existing wire channel for existing ceiling fan wire.



Exited ceiling and used wire mold in overhead cabinet.



Used wire mold between overhead and nite stand. Tried to put in bath wall but had many obstructions.



Ran through bottom of nite stand to underside of bed, put false bottom in nite stand to hide wire. Installed junction box with 2 contactors under bed. Contactors switch power source to new AC between electric panel under bed or cord run to electrical compartment outside.



Installed switch to operate contactor coils. Up for compartment cord, center "off", down for electric panel under bed.



Used 10 guage wire from panel to contactor and contactors to AC. Cord to elect Compartment is 12 Guage' May change that out to 10 guage if I have any issues with voltage drop.
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:12 AM   #22
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Thanks a million for all the great replies folks. I will take each and everyone of them to lead me to a conclusion of the problem. Going out camping again this weekend and we will see how hot it gets in the motor home this time. I will have my temperature gauge with me again to monitor the inside temp against the outside temp take some more pictures just in case I have to prove my case to the dealer on the 24th.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:59 PM   #23
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Well folks it's been some time for the air conditioning problem to be fixed but finally things are on the look up side of the fence. The air is working fine now that the ducks were cleaned of all the crap left behind stopping the air flow. It is be wound me how stuff like that can be left behind during construction so people have a useless problem after buying a motor home. I think I have come to the conclusion that the manufactures and the dealers could give a rats ass about customer services after they have their $87,000 + dollars in their pockets. RV dealers are a pain to deal with and when you do it cost you an arm and a leg. I have to find a shop that is local owned and operated to take my problems to next time.

Any how thanks for all the responses and help me solve this problem. You people are the best.

Sincerely,
Labrauer
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:34 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labrauer View Post
Well folks it's been some time for the air conditioning problem to be fixed but finally things are on the look up side of the fence. The air is working fine now that the ducks were cleaned of all the crap left behind stopping the air flow. It is be wound me how stuff like that can be left behind during construction so people have a useless problem after buying a motor home. I think I have come to the conclusion that the manufactures and the dealers could give a rats ass about customer services after they have their $87,000 + dollars in their pockets. RV dealers are a pain to deal with and when you do it cost you an arm and a leg. I have to find a shop that is local owned and operated to take my problems to next time.

Any how thanks for all the responses and help me solve this problem. You people are the best.


Sincerely,
Labrauer

Good deal!
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