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Old 03-06-2017, 10:01 PM   #1
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30 Amp Inline Surge Protector install advice please

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Bounder 34J and was looking at installing a Sure guard inline in my RV. The only place I can install is on the far left of the utility cabinet. Should I install it upside down or sideways. Not much room for everything in there and trying to maximize space. Any ideas?Click image for larger version

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Old 03-07-2017, 05:25 AM   #2
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Progressive is typically thought to be the better choice, also carries a lifetime warranty. Protects low and high voltages, as well as open neutrals/grounds or reversed polarities.

There's not a ruler reference so hard to know from the picture how big that space is. Move that existing box up, take the yellow cord and enter into the bottom of that box. Those white wires should have protection going into that box, that sharp metal can cut thru the insulation of those wires. Need a grommet.
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Old 03-07-2017, 05:54 AM   #3
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Progressive is typically thought to be the better choice, also carries a lifetime warranty. Protects low and high voltages, as well as open neutrals/grounds or reversed polarities.

There's not ruler reference so hard to know from the picture how big that space is. Move that existing box up, take the yellow cord and enter into the bottom of that box. Those white wires should have protection going into that box, that sharp metal can cut thru the insulation of those wires. Need a grommet.
I was thinking about grommets myself. That switch is for my electric water heater conversion kit called hot rodd. This RV only came with a gas water heater. Thanks for the insight on progressive.
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Old 03-07-2017, 05:59 AM   #4
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What is the other cable and switch coming out of the Transfer Switch?
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:04 AM   #5
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What is the other cable and switch coming out of the Transfer Switch?
Good morning. If you are talking about the switch in the front, it is for a water heater conversion kit.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:19 AM   #6
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OK, just wondering what it was for.
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Old 03-07-2017, 08:48 AM   #7
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OK, just wondering what it was for.
It's OK. I wish I had an electric/gas water heater but it didn't come with one. I installed the switch as a neutral connection and the only hot wire is going to the led. The old switch that was there looked like it was made in the 70's lol.
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:27 AM   #8
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The first thing you need to do is install a fuse box to protect the smaller wires you have connected to the 30a circuit. Is that an extension cord that's coming out of the junction box? Also, to answer a previous question the box is 4" square and 2 1/8" deep.
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:44 AM   #9
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I know it a weird setup and it scares me. The original owner did a lot of rigging from the hot rod water heater conversion and the duct taped wires in that box. That's why I was going to take that metal box out and wire a surge protector directly through the main harness. The fuse is certainly a great idea and maybe a reset type switch for 15 amps perhaps. I think the hot rod conversion is 10 amps.
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:58 AM   #10
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That looks like that's a junction box thats silver, I removed my junction box and installed my progressive 50amp in the same spot as the old junction box
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarden75 View Post
It's OK. I wish I had an electric/gas water heater but it didn't come with one. I installed the switch as a neutral connection and the only hot wire is going to the led. The old switch that was there looked like it was made in the 70's lol.
I've installed two of the Hott Rod conversions and I remember them being 120 volt. Is that switch even rated for 120 Volt use? Looks like the standard 12 V ones used in a dash.
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Old 03-07-2017, 11:05 AM   #12
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Why not use the cord end version?
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:17 PM   #13
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That looks like that's a junction box thats silver, I removed my junction box and installed my progressive 50amp in the same spot as the old junction box
I was looking at progressive and seen the price. Wow I almost fell out of my chair. I was thinking of the same thing. What's weird is line and load. I would think the power cord would be on the bottom and the RV connection would be on the top. Except it's the opposite way around. I'm trying to prevent installing it upside down. I'm a little nuts when things don't look right lol.
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:35 PM   #14
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You never switch the neutral wire.

Switching the hot cuts all power off after the switch. There will be no power in the wires to the device or back.

Switching neutral leaves power to the device and back to the switch. If that wire touch's ground, before the heater, it will burn back to the source.

Cut that stuff out, tap off a breaker in the panel and add a switch in a handy box and switch the black hot wire.
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