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Old 06-16-2014, 10:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protech441 View Post
No way you can run over one AC on 30 Amp.
OP has a Fleetwood made MH with a EMS installed that will shed AC's when needed to keep AMP draw under 30.

His rear AC is a 11K Coleman PS unit that at full load pulls 10 AMP's and his front a 13.5K Coleman PS unit at full load pulls 11.2 AMP.

So they are thousands of 30 AMP Fleetwood MH's in use that are running 2 AC units the same time.

If campground post breaker keeps tripping. Probably a old weak breaker or the volts are low. If it is the weak breaker, that can be fixed most of the time by using a adapter to the post 50 AMP hook up if it has one.

Low park voltage can sometimes be fixed by having a PowerMaster autoformer. And also by above post suggestions already made of turning off other 120V in use.

Mine was the same as OP with the 11k and 13.5K AC's until I replaced the rear with a 13.5K and the front to a 15K heat Pump. I had to add a separate breaker and shore cord for the front one.
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:53 AM   #16
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Tpd, I have a 2001 Bounder 34t that also runs on 30 amps. I was also tripping breakers till I got to a car wash and took the covers off both units and washed them real good. I had been parked a while in Co. under cottonwood trees and they were really nasty. After that they operated as long as not a lot of other items were on. Good luck.
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:53 AM   #17
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Seems like there are many different things being said by contributors to this thread. A 30 amp service only provides 3600 watts. You need to have one smaller capacity A/C to stay under your maximum when one compressor is starting. Using fridge on electric, electric water heater element, coffee maker, toaster or hair dryer and you'll quickly exceed limit. When they were building 2 A/C into 30 amp RVs an electric manager that monitors and shuts off heavy draw items helps, but isn't a perfect solution in my mind. If you are tip-toeing around your maximum, you have the potential for melting power cord, plug or a fire. A 50 amp service isn't the difference of 30 and 50, but 30 amps and 100 amps since 50 amp service provides two lines of 50 amp service to the RV. That's the difference of 3,600 and 12,000 watts. RVs with 30 amp service and two A/C running at the same time are dancing very close to their power limits --- with little room for additional electric capacity and perhaps none as circuit breakers and components age or voltage drops due to heavy local usage. Wiring one A/C on a second 20 amp cord gives a small additional power capacity and less need to worry about a toaster blowing a circuit or worse.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:25 AM   #18
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Well said TRIKER56, I'm not all that electrically savvy so I stay away from the amp draws conversations and all. However; I have read other posts saying the same as your info concerning current draw at start and running, So I was aware the draws were within the 30 amp service. One other item of note is the energy management system also will not try to start both units at the same time.

This is my first MH so I have no idea if the MH's that the "no ways"own have a management module in their MH.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:27 AM   #19
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30 amps use one air

50 amps use two airs
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:39 AM   #20
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If your breakers are tripping, it might be beneficial to replace them. After numerous trips the springs get weaker and it takes less to flip it.
Could you add a soft start capacitor on each unit and run both without this happening? We have suffered on the Strip at Circus Circus RV area in August and it was brutal. Basement air in an Itasca Horizon with compressors going hard and they were not able to keep it cool. We were parked on asphalt. We could get it comfortable at night, but y 10 AM the temps were headed back up again.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:42 PM   #21
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True that Doc....Vegas adn Phoenix, winter time only.
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Old 06-18-2014, 02:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsinmich View Post
We had 30 amps on our '96 Pace Arrow and had no problem running both ACs. We did run the ref. on gas then to save as many amps as possible. The Intellitec unit worked great for us in 100F.
Not all AC units are the same. The BTUs range from 11,000 to 15,000 and some are more efficient than others. You might get away with two of the smaller units, but not two of the larger ones, so it depends on what's actually installed in the coach. Your '96 coach probably had the smaller capacity units. My old coach had them and I replaced one with a 15,000 btu. I had trouble running it alone on 30A even with nothing else running the battery charger/converter and water heater would trip the breaker occasionally.
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by OLYLEN View Post
Not false info, but using your your camp ground and your equipped MH and generalizing. example; Your A/C pulls 1800 watts max @ 120 volts = 15 amps @110 volts = 16.4 amps. In one case you can get away with 2A/C 's in the other you can't. I either case your pushing 30amps. Add any other draws on the curant flow and pop goes the braker.

LEN
Please keep in mind that not all AC units are the same. they vary in capacity by as much as 40%, and that 40% makes a huge difference on if both can run together. Additionally older 30A RVs had various schemes like the poster explained to keep the total power draw acceptable. He's not incorrect...for his equipment he could run them both. Could you get away with this in a 50A RV plugged into 30A with two 15,000 btu heat pumps?... no way. (you might not trip the breaker with a power management unit, but they probably won't run at the same time.)
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:02 PM   #24
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Just for kicks and giggles this is copied from my owner manual:

"If the generator is running, either or both air conditioners can
operate together. If the motor home is plugged into 30-amp
service, both roof air conditioners can be operated at the same
time".

See the Electrical System chapter for operating details on the
Fleetwood Climate Control System.

My front is a 12,500 and the rear is a 10,500, they run flawlessly and keep the coach nice and cool in the direct Florida sun, and actually cycle and cool to a set-point. It really honks me off to have people make statements that it can't be done, just because they can't do it with their equipment. Show a little respect to fellow members that try to share factual information, please. Obviously Fleetwood sized the AC to work with the common 30 amp service of the day.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:25 PM   #25
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Remember it's a 97 unit. The breaker may need to be replaced inside the RV to hold during the spike in amp's used. When the campground breaker opens the circuit to protect the RV but they get old and need to be replaced as well. Run your generator if it continues when both ac unit are in service.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:33 PM   #26
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Brockx, well said.

I would run everything on the generator first. So you know things are working. Then measure the voltage at the power box when the AC units start. I sure sounds like low voltage at the power box to me. The only solution would be an autoformer. But they are not cheap. I read here Hughes makes a good one.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:12 PM   #27
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30 amp won't run the AC help

I run two a/c units on 30 amps and all THREE on 50 amps in my MH, fwiw.

Cheers, keep kool!
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