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Old 06-11-2014, 09:31 PM   #1
tpd
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30 amp won't run the AC help

Hi, we have a 97 bounder that is 30 amp, have never had a problem, on the east coast in weather under 90 degree's. We just came to vegas and it is anywere from 99 to 105. Now we have both ac's on and we keep blowing breakers, at one rv park the breaker outside were we plug in kept tripping, now at another park the inside breaker is tripping. So today I kept the slides in to reduce the footage, unplugged everything to reduce the draw, and still bad, I hear the compressor kick on and then go off, and every now and again the breaker tripps.
Does this sound like an RV problem for am I not getting proper current ?? I have heard some parks don't have very good electric ??
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:36 PM   #2
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30 amp won't run the AC help

30 amp service will not run both your AC's at the same time. If you can even turn them both on at the same time, there may be an issue with your power center on the coach. Now, you should be fine running either one, or if you need both you will have to run your generator.

Each AC unit will draw close to 15 amps while running, but when the compressor kicks on they will draw closer to 20 for a short time. With both running you are over 30, and this blows the breakers. On gen power, you are at more like 50 amp service, so running both AC's is fine.


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Old 06-11-2014, 10:02 PM   #3
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Get a tower fan and run one AC based on the time of day (living room by day, bedroom by night for example) and use the fan to move air to the other zone. Switch as needed.
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Old 06-15-2014, 02:53 PM   #4
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We wired a separate 15/20 amp heavy duty cord to the rear AC. So when plugged in, we plug in the 30a cord. If we need to run both ACs I pull out the 15 amp cord and plug it I. To the power pedestal also.

The front AC is still on the normal 30a circuit. All I did was disconnect the rear AC from the factory wiring and wire it to the new cord. The only thing on the 15 amp cord is the rear AC.


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Old 06-15-2014, 03:31 PM   #5
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I was told when I inquired about adding a second a\c unit I would also need to update to 50 amp from 30amp. This was when I was searching for a TT. I didn't think I needed the second a\c unit. I also have 2 a/c units on my boat on a dedicated 30amp line and instill can't run both at the same time.
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:13 PM   #6
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We had 30 amps on our '96 Pace Arrow and had no problem running both ACs. We did run the ref. on gas then to save as many amps as possible. The Intellitec unit worked great for us in 100F.
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:19 PM   #7
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It's barely possibly to run both A/Cs on 30A service. Turn refr on gas, turn off all 120V lights, turn off WH elec element, and anything else 120V to save power.
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:30 PM   #8
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Two A/Cs on 30 amps is pushing the boundaries. If voltage drops, sometimes common in hot summer campgrounds, the amperage will go up and flip breakers. Only real solution is to close off back while in front or wire back A/C to a 20 amp cord and plug in to pedestal with a second cord.
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpd View Post
Hi, we have a 97 bounder that is 30 amp, have never had a problem, on the east coast in weather under 90 degree's. We just came to vegas and it is anywere from 99 to 105. Now we have both ac's on and we keep blowing breakers, at one rv park the breaker outside were we plug in kept tripping, now at another park the inside breaker is tripping. So today I kept the slides in to reduce the footage, unplugged everything to reduce the draw, and still bad, I hear the compressor kick on and then go off, and every now and again the breaker tripps.
Does this sound like an RV problem for am I not getting proper current ?? I have heard some parks don't have very good electric ??
I have a 96 Pace Arrow and have absolutely no problem running both airs on 30 amp service. Your Bounder and my PA are both Fleetwood products, does your unit have the power management unit? If it does then it should "shed" the rear AC's compressor if adequate power is not available, example both airs running and you start the microwave, it would stop the rear air conditioners compressor (not the fan) until the Micro was done. Since you are experiencing the problem at more than one site there may well be a problem in your connections, a weak breaker, or the power management module if you have it.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:32 PM   #10
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Forgot to mention when the compressor kicks on the amp draw climbs for a short time. The spike when a compressor kicks on is usually when the breaker pops. Check the amperage draw of each unit - if you have smaller units you might be fine. It all comes down to the spec sheet on each unit.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:43 AM   #11
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How high is humidity there? A dehumidifier can be priceless. The previous comments are correct. No way you can run over one AC on 30 Amp.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:57 AM   #12
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TPD... I have a 96 Bounder and cannot run both ACs on 30amps...I am forced to run either the front or rear AC but not both at the same time. Some of the other IRV2Rers have wired their Bounder to have a separate 15 amp cord for the second AC unit so that they plug unit 2 into the park electrical box as a second device.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #13
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No way you can run over one AC on 30 Amp.
Wrong, you are basically accusing me and other members of false information. Based on your equipment inability, for what ever reason.

I will reiterate, the only time my air drops out is when we run the microwave, then only the rear compressor for the time the micro runs.

We often in the evening have 2 120 volt TV's on, sometimes with the DVR, and of course as much lighting as desired, of course the lights are 12V.
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:04 AM   #14
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Not false info, but using your your camp ground and your equipped MH and generalizing. example; Your A/C pulls 1800 watts max @ 120 volts = 15 amps @110 volts = 16.4 amps. In one case you can get away with 2A/C 's in the other you can't. I either case your pushing 30amps. Add any other draws on the curant flow and pop goes the braker.

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