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Old 09-28-2017, 09:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetbriar View Post
That was quick. 8th entry and the subject of the thread is onto something totally different. Might as well add to it.

Every coach, toad, base plate and tow bar setup is different. Even how loaded the coach might be which affects the horizontal angle of the tow bar and could affect what might occur when backing. Some owners can back up straight without a problem. Some can even maneuver the toad while back without a problem. Others the front wheels of the toad will quickly turn into the stops before a tires can make one complete revolution. What I can do with my coach has little bearing on what you can do with yours. So any advice posted, including what I write, should not be trusted until you first test how you setup behaves.

Now if you want to give it a try find a wide open flat parking lot to do a test run. Use a spotter that can see the front wheels of the toad and you can also see. Position the coach and toad in a straight line with both steering wheels centered and very, VERY, VERY slowly start backing in a straight line. Did I stress moving slowly enough? If you're backing faster then you can craw you're going to fast. The spotter is watching for any movement of the front wheels as if making a turn. If the wheels do start to swing out give it up as your configuration will not support backing.

What could happen if you push the toad front wheels into the turning stops? Plenty and a few that will leave you stranded. Bent or broken tie rods, broken ball joints, twisted baseplate, damaged tow bar clevis ends, bent towbar to baseplate attachment pins, bent tow bar arms, over stressed hitch receiver fasteners,,,

Good luck.
I agree with everything you said. I just didn't like the absolute statement, "What ever you do, don't back the motorhome up with the Toad attached, not even a few feet. Even with a spotter, you'll do serious, expensive damage to the front wheels of the toad." Putting the 'spotter' in the driver's seat of the toad can stop the wheels from binding and turning to the stops. Again, not something I do often, but it can be done. In addition, we keep a pair of charged up walkie-talkies handy and use them when doing such maneuvers.

This whole side topic got started when responding that there was no reason to keep the toad hitched when doing a weighing of the RV. A tow bar weighs about 40 lbs, max, so no more than 20 lbs of that weight would be part of the load on the RV. The scales likely won't be that accurate anyway, especially if there's any slope on the sides of the scale, causing RV weight to shift a bit as you weigh one side or the other.
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:53 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mudfrog View Post
On 4 corner weighing,, can't you just do the front and rear axle weigh, then go back through to do one side or the other? Afterwards, do the subtraction to get the numbers for the side that wasn't weighed?
Yes of course I could but...oh never mind.

I got my question answered and now I know how the front toad wheels could get damaged.

thanks everyone.
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:57 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
This whole side topic got started when responding that there was no reason to keep the toad hitched when doing a weighing of the RV. A tow bar weighs about 40 lbs, max, so no more than 20 lbs of that weight would be part of the load on the RV. The scales likely won't be that accurate anyway, especially if there's any slope on the sides of the scale, causing RV weight to shift a bit as you weigh one side or the other.
Thank you Bob.
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